The highlight of our stay in Jordan was naturally a visit to Petra.

What can you say about this place, this city? First, let's outline its modern attributes:

It is one of the 7 New Wonders of the World;

This is the symbol of Jordan;

It is part of the UNESCO World Heritage List;

This is a place that has been mentioned many times in the bible;

This is ultimately one of the most magnificent architectural ensembles of antiquity.

Regarding the history of the city, it is quite capacious, lengthy and consists of many interesting facts and moments. However, in this case, we will not dwell on it much (who is interested in what the Edomites, Nabateans, Romans, Byzantines or Arabs left behind in the city, and when it was - the Internet is at your service). Let us note only a few points.

Historians discovered the first mentions of Peter in manuscripts dating back to XIII century BC

The period of prosperity and construction of the rock city occurred during the period of occupation by the Nabateans ( IV-III centuries BC.)

At the end of XIII century AD, the city was completely abandoned and forgotten (for unknown reasons).

In 1812, Petra was rediscovered for Europeans by the famous traveler Johann Ludwig Burckhardt, who managed to gain the trust of the local Bedouins by hook or by crook and, under the guise of an artist, got together with his guides into the forgotten city. Since Burckhardt had extensive practical experience as a traveler, it was not difficult for him to remember the route and subsequently bring researchers here....

From this moment to the present, constant archaeological research has been carried out in the Petra area, during which many historically important and valuable objects were discovered, which are located on the map below....

(Map taken from the Russian edition "Jordan" Geographic&Co)

We will not describe now what each number means, but as we travel through Petra we will refer to this map.

So - let's go!

Our journey to Petra began at 7:30 local Jordanian time. It was at this time that taxi driver Reid Al-Masri, with whom we had agreed on a trip the day before, was waiting for us at the entrance to the hotel.

In order for us to get from Aqaba (where we lived) to Petra we had to cover over 100 km. The roads in Jordan are for the most part decent (not like ours), there are few cars, the driver is experienced (with a lot of experience), so the time to travel to pure form It wouldn't take more than an hour or so. But even during the negotiations, Reid told us that on the way to Petra he would make several stops from which a wonderful view would open. He kept his word. True, the first stop turned out to be unplanned. At the pass we saw snow and asked the driver to stop. Snow for Jordan is perhaps also a kind of miracle.... Reid told us that a week ago the height of the snow cover here was about a meter, so many roads were completely closed to transport.

Then everything went according to plan. The next stop is at the gift shop located nearby. It offers a wide range of Jordanian handicrafts, including numerous cosmetic products with Dead Sea ingredients at very attractive prices...

After tasting local tea and coffee, warming up a little in camel skins (in Aqaba the air temperature was +20 o C, and here it was about 0) we continued our trip....

After driving a couple more kilometers we found ourselves at the observation deck. This is the highest place in the area. The wind was so strong that we were afraid to approach the edge of the site - it might blow away....

The driver says that there are only a few kilometers left to Petra, and because of the next turn a wonderful view of some town opened up in front of us... We stop (as planned) and begin to look around...

Where is Petra? The driver explains that we are looking in the wrong direction. This town is called Wadi Musa, but what we need is located away from it.

He makes us turn to the side and, pointing to the rocks in front of us, repeats uncontrollably: “Petra, Petra!”

We began to peer into the distance more intensely. But alas, we didn’t see anything. Now it has become clear why, until 1812, for many centuries, outside travelers were not able to visit the ancient city.....

We go downstairs by car and in a few minutes we are already at the entrance to the famous open-air museum.

We buy tickets (to be precise, the driver did it) and.....

Let's digress a little here. About the tickets. Petra is considered one of the most expensive museums in the world. This is not accidental, because The museum is one of Jordan's few sources of income. So ticket prices are different here. If you come to Petra, for example, from Israel or Egypt (i.e. for one day), then you will be charged 90 dinars for entry (1 local dinar is only 70 American cents). If you got here while staying in Jordan, you will only be required to pay 50 dinars. To do this, you will have to present your international passport or have as a friend such a cunning driver as our Reid, who, bypassing the line (it really wasn’t very long), leaned through the cashier window and in a couple of seconds explained to the cashier that he had brought a group of tourists from Aqaba, who were there they live in one of the hotels (or maybe he told them something else - fluent Arabic is unknown to us).

A minute later we were already inside the complex called "Petra".

Before moving on, on a small island of civilization, you can, for example, stock up on water, wash your hands, and at the “Information for Tourists” point, get a map of Petra for free (it is advisable not just to take it with you, but to try to understand the map a little, so that later already consciously walk around the city), etc., etc.

Well, now that all everyday problems have been sorted out, taking a farewell look at today’s time

We, having passed the control, find ourselves in the distant past....

After passing the control, you and I find ourselves in the Wadi Musa valley (1) (Valley of Moses). The road to the past is quite long. Parallel to the pedestrian path there is a road for local transport: donkeys, horses, etc. If you carefully read the tourist rights that he receives when purchasing an entrance ticket, then its price includes delivery of your person on this transport to the center of Petra. Many people do not know about this (the information is presented in very small print on the inside of the ticket) and despite the inviting shouts of the drivers: “All inclusive!”, who quite intrusively offer this service, they prefer to walk. Others who know about this service refuse to use it due to the fact that, as follows from numerous reviews of tourists, all these local brethren will still try to take money from you for delivery. They will give you a lot of reasons for this. Starting from the fact that they deliver for free only to a specific place that you have already accidentally passed, and ending with a noisy disassembly in their own language, as a result of which you will still fork out money...

In general, we went on foot, but not based on the above factors. Firstly, the weather was amazing - the air temperature is somewhere around 15 degrees Celsius above zero (in the summer it gets over 40 - that's when you start thinking about transport), the sun is shining, there is some cloudiness, the breeze is blowing... In -secondly, it was interesting for us to watch everything slowly....

Already literally around the first turn, man-made structures are visible in numerous low rocks...

Ahead along the course, on the right side, Djinn's boulders rise (5).

Here they are before us.... There are several opinions about them. Some say that these are stone gods, others say something else... We will stick to the official version, which can be found on the information board. It follows from this that these are some kind of tower tombs....

Around a slight turn, but already on the opposite side, another structure is visible in the rock....

This is none other than the Obelisk Tomb (6). There were five graves in the upper tier, and the ground floor was a mourning (ritual) hall.... There is another interesting, but not official version: some believe that four sons of one of the rulers of Petra were buried in this tomb (according to the number of pillars above the entrance)....

Some have already managed to inspect everything and are returning “to base” with the breeze....

And we continue our acquaintance with Petra....

Opposite the Obelisk Tomb is another burial room.... Its purpose can be judged by the peculiar ornament located above the entrance - two steps converging to the bottom....

And this is confirmation of our words. Experts in English can familiarize themselves in detail with the opinion of the museum’s management regarding the purpose of certain structures....

While we are moving along the Valley of Moses, literally in all the numerous rocks that surround us we can find traces of an ancient civilization...

"Prospect" ends with another stronghold of law and order

and one more information for tourists...

We are on one of the oldest dams, which was built by the Nabateans during the construction of Petra. The dam was subsequently restored in 1964. Its purpose is very practical and very important for Petra. As you and I will find out later - all ancient city located at the bottom of a deep gorge. Accordingly, during the rainy season (and there are decent rains here + water flows into the gorge from all the surrounding mountains), Petra could simply be washed away. Clever city planners of the past solved this problem quite simply and ingeniously: they built a dam in front of the entrance to their gorge, and cut down a tunnel on the side (to drain water), which is called Nabatean or Dark (8). Along it, all the “extra” water went into another gorge....

Behind the dam, two Petra warriors guard the entrance to the Siq gorge (9)... This main road leading to Petra is a broken rock bottom about 1200 meters long. The height of the steep walls reaches up to 80 meters, and the width of the “path” ranges from 3 to 12 meters (so be careful in narrow places, otherwise you will find yourself easy prey for a dashingly rushing chaise).

Once upon a time, the entrance to the gorge was decorated with arched gates, but they could not be preserved - they were destroyed in 1895. However, if you look closely you can see the remnants of former luxury...

And at the next “cheat sheet” you can get to know them better....

And so we “plunge” into the pleasant coolness (although it’s not particularly hot outside) of the Siq gorge...

If you look closely, on the left side along the entire gorge stretches a trench carved into the rocks. This next invention of the Nabateans is a water supply system. They managed to collect for their needs fresh water from mountains within a radius of up to 25 kilometers. Moreover, they thought through everything to the smallest detail: the constant slope of the drain, which allows you to regulate the flow rate, and a large number of tanks (there are over 200 of them), and ceramic pipes, and laying a water supply at a height, and much more that was beyond their capabilities at that time most other nations...

It is no coincidence that it was on the edge of the drain that this lonely tree found “refuge”....

Before us is perhaps one of the narrowest places in the gorge....

And here there is no longer any light overhead...

Here's what we warned you about above. True, we were lucky - we encountered a “convertible” in a fairly wide area of ​​the gorge. And if this had happened a few minutes earlier, we would have had to take the shape of a wall...

According to our estimates, we have already covered half the way to the Siq gorge....

But here we will linger a little. If you pay attention, there is a huge cracked piece of rock hanging over the gorge on the top right....

Many scientists believe that this is a real danger that can manifest itself at any moment. Jordanians are making every effort to avoid collapse. There are many sensors installed on the rock that record all changes in the crack. In addition, the country's authorities turned to other states for help, and according to some information, it seems that the Germans have some kind of project to protect the rock... (So hurry up to visit Petra, otherwise the entrance to it will be blocked)

We were lucky again - the rock did not fall off and we continued our movement forward....

In this part of the gorge, hand-made works of ancient masters begin to appear....

But nature has already taken away the soul.... If you look at this creation of hers from this side, it resembles some kind of terrible fish....

And from here - a couple of elephants...

It turns out that everything that we saw above was the creation of the hands of a man named Sabinos, who was engaged in certain religious ceremonies.... True, time, or rather the strong winds and rains that affected him throughout the 18th centuries did not spare his masterpieces...

The Siq expanded again. By the way, very often on the ground you can find the remains of those ancient paving stones....

Traces of civilization began to appear more and more often along the way...

Suddenly the passage became completely narrowed, it became dark, and in the distance, in the gap between the rocks, the outlines of some kind of structure appeared....

After a few seconds, the very famous building Petra El Khazneh (10)....

Al Khazneh is business card Petra, and throughout Jordan...

Once upon a time, to Europeans who first visited these places, it appeared in the following form.....

(Photo taken from the Russian edition "Jordan" Geographic&Co)

During this time, a lot has changed in Al-Khazneh: something for the better - the collapsed column was restored, something for the worse - time has taken its toll and many of the sculptures have become worn out....

What is this building like? The height of the facade is 39 meters (this is the height of our 12-story building), the width is 25 meters. This structure was carved into the rock. Until recently, scientists did not have accurate information about how the Nabateans managed to do all this. Many believed that the classical method of construction was used, i.e. Scaffolding was erected and builders were located on their platforms, who hollowed out building elements in the rock. However, this version quickly lost its relevance: there are mountains and desert around for many kilometers. Every tree is counted. After many years of research, it was found that all the work was carried out in a completely new style for architecture - not from bottom to top, but vice versa: from top to bottom. The ancient builders climbed to the top of the rock and from there began to build their masterpiece. By making protrusions in the rock and gradually going down, at the first stage they created something like a perfectly smooth canvas. During the second phase of construction, again working from the top down and using a system of step-by-step cutting of cornices (instead of scaffolding), the elements of the main structure were created. If it were possible at that time to use modern means of video recording, then the following video fragment would appear before us: you are a spectator and, as it were, you are in the auditorium. In front of you is a curtain that begins to fall from top to bottom, and at this time El Khazneh begins to appear in front of you....

First, its upper fragment,

well, and then its lower part....

As they say, everything ingenious is simple. Although with this method of construction, the chief architect, so to speak, must have colossal knowledge...

Most of the buildings in Petra were built in this way. By the way, this production was virtually waste-free. The building was cut down in blocks (something like bricks, only larger), which were then lowered down and successfully used in the construction of other structures...

For a long time it was not possible to determine the purpose of this building. At first they thought it was a treasury. After all, Petra was at one time a fairly rich city. It was located at the crossroads of two important trade routes: the first connected the Red Sea with Damascus, the second Persian Gulf with Gaza. It was in Petra that numerous caravans stopped to rest after long and tiring journeys. At that time, Petra was a real oasis in the desert: there was a lot of greenery, fountains, places to relax, etc. The Nabateans were good traders and, accordingly, the city treasury was constantly replenished. So, according to one version, it was decided to build a building of amazing beauty at the entrance to the city, which would use the latest innovations of advanced world architecture (hence we see elements of the Greco-Roman style in Al-Khazna), and which would make newly arrived guests of the city immediately understand where they have ended up. Accordingly, they planned to store all their wealth in this building. By the way, El-Khazneh is translated from Arabic as treasury, treasury...

Another version about the purpose of El-Khazneh is a temple, a tomb. The thing is that if you go inside the building, there are no architectural excesses other than bare walls. In addition, an analysis of the sculptures on the facade of the building showed that all of them are in one way or another connected with the afterlife. But the main feature of the tomb - burials - was not found.

Just not so long ago, one scientist conducting a study of Petra thought it strange that the slope at which we exit the Siq gorge towards Al-Khazneh in front of the building suddenly changes its level (i.e. levels out). Then the assumption arose that the base of the building was simply covered with sand over time. The scientist’s assumption was justified: during excavations, a lower floor was discovered at the visual base of the building at a depth of 6 meters, in which the burials of 11 people were found. Based on their remains, it was possible to accurately determine the time of burial and finally determine the exact purpose of this grandiose structure - the tomb of the Nabatean king Arefa IV....

If you get closer to the building, then you can see some of the results of these excavations....

And here is another caravan leaving the gorge

and settled down to rest....

Yes, donkeys have no place among the ships of the desert....

The square in front of Al Khazneh is a favorite place for tourists. But today there are not many people and we manage to calmly look at everything and take pictures without any crowds and turmoil....

Even on the wall near the building we were able to see such a balcony....

However, we should not forget that Al-Khazneh is only the beginning of the glorious city of Petra. Therefore, if you want to have time to see its other attractions, then it’s time for you to move on.... Which is what we are doing.

We pass through a small gorge

and before us is a new creation of the Nabateans - the street (wall) of Facades....

These are numerous burial places, the entrance to which is a true architectural monument....

In fact, among many scientists there is a version that Petra is the city of the dead. Too many objects in the city are connected with this event. True, their opponents also have quite compelling arguments in their favor: why do the dead need such a powerful and developed water supply system, why do they need a theater, etc., etc. Agree, these are quite compelling arguments. Again, if you take a closer look at the culture of the Nabateans, they were very sensitive to the afterlife and believed that the deceased should not need anything. Hence perhaps the large tombs (which are much better than their homes) and many of the ritual complexes that we see today in Petra. Otherwise, history is a relative thing. Perhaps soon, some lucky person from this brotherhood will be able to find such an artifact that will change all official ideas on this matter, and it may happen that Petra is really the city of the dead...

In the Wall of Facades you can also find open openings, although today access to tourists is closed - specialists are still working there...

Right in front of us is the Nabatean theater. It is also carved into the rock, although some of its parts are made from those blocks that remained from Al-Khazneh. The theater has 45 rows. The average length of one row is about 95 meters. It was designed for 7-10 thousand spectators....

On the left side of the square we again see many tombs and some other rooms. Yes, another everyday moment. The fact is that before the trip, having studied many sites, we realized that in Petra there is a certain problem with W.C. - everyone unanimously stated: “Be careful! There is only one toilet, which is located at the entrance! ". So, ladies and gentlemen, let me disagree with this. There are many of them in Petra more: there are both at the entrance and at the entrance to the gorge (dry toilets), and in this square (hospital), and further along your route in several places. So don't worry too much about this. The only place where these amenities of civilization are absent is if you go to the mountains...

Speaking of mountains... While we were looking around in this square, a couple of tourists (foreigners) with a local guide stopped near us. After he told them something about this square, the guide suggested that the couple climb to enjoy the amazing views of Petra.... Since we became unwitting witnesses to this fluent conversation in English, we had no choice but to follow them example

Let's start climbing...

We climbed literally a few tens of meters, and Petra already looked different....

Well, let's continue our experiment...

I still have the strength, my breathing doesn’t seem to falter, so I keep going higher and higher....,

and the camels are getting smaller and smaller...

And this is what the Assyrian-type tombs opposite the theater look like from a height (at a fairly close approach)...

It seems that we have already climbed high, but our mountain does not end there.... It’s good that at least the weather is favorable (at +40, such a climb would not be a joy)...

After the next turn there is another long climb... As for the road itself, it is quite decent: 50 percent are fairly well-preserved steps, 25 percent of its length is a fairly compacted surface, and the remaining 25% is as usual in the mountains.. Of course, in rainy weather climbing some sections would be very problematic...

Once again we look back... Maybe it's time to go back? But the guide led our foreign colleagues upward somewhere and for some reason...

But these steps delight the soul, and the body too....

In some places, the rock walls along which we move look quite good...

And here is the first living creature on our mountain path.... Meet - in front of you is a Jordanian pigeon with high-mountain residence in the city of Petra...

Through a camera lens with a good zoom we look at our starting point.... Now, until we find out the purpose of our ascent, it’s definitely stupid to go down...

So quietly, quite often distracted by photography, we caught up with the initiators of our ascent. Local Bedouins make their life much easier by making this journey on donkeys... True, in this section there are places that when crossing on foot you experience a lot of thrills, but if you overcome these sections on horseback... In short, comments are unnecessary.

Even at this altitude there are points for processing tourists, i.e. sale of local handicrafts....

Prices here are much lower than below. We offer you various amulets with stones, items supposedly made of pure silver, etc....

On a small flat area there is a high-mountain cafe. They offer Bedouin tea, local coffee with coriander, and some other non-alcoholic drinks. We have no time for them yet...

Poor donkey, how he’s breathing heavily, and he looks like he’s sweating... Or maybe I’m already breathing like a locomotive? Although the foreigners are already somewhere far behind...

I'll tell you a little secret. Due to the fact that there is only one path further on, we decided to go around them (we won’t get lost anyway)...

We somehow got carried away by the process of conquering the peak and forgot that there could be faster walkers on this path besides us... We had to give way...

We go around the next turn and... and there is no road higher! We are at the top!!!

Why did we drag ourselves here, to put it mildly?

Maybe in order to enjoy the music of this Bedouin at such a height?

Or drink some water from this high mountain well?

While we cannot find the answer to our question, but with all this, we no longer regret that we climbed here and spent a lot of time on it.

Firstly, it offers a magnificent view of the mountains surrounding Petra....

Secondly, where else will you meet cats at such a height and in such a deserted place?

By the way, they feel quite good here and lead a very active lifestyle....

Thirdly, only here you can meet real modern residents of Petra, who absolutely do not care about the level of local sales (they would rather study stock exchange news).....

who, in the absence of an influx of tourists, will develop their abilities as a guide by exposing all the delights of Petra to their beloved donkey...

And at the same time, the latter, we must give him his due, will be a worthy listener...

Only on this peak, hoisting the Jordanian flag (while risking their lives), local residents discuss the global geopolitical situation...

Only from this peak can you see, on one side, a modern city, in which life is seething,

and on the other hand, observe the home of a Petruan Bedouin...

Only at this peak do our respected donkeys bow before religious buildings and in silence, probably, think about something vital...

Agree, it’s painfully true that we are on some specific mountain....

As it turned out a little later (when we had already descended and analyzed our route), we ended up on Mount Attuf (mountain of sacrifices)

After carefully looking around, we discovered facts confirming that we are in this exact place...

These are, first of all, two obelisks - symbols of the deities Dusshara and Al-Uzza....

and, of course, these ruins of ritual temples....

But as it turned out, even this was not the goal of our ascent....

Everyone says that donkeys are stupid animals. I don't think so. Would a stupid animal just walk to the edge of an abyss?

They clearly knew that while on this, several dangerous place, you can see most of Petra in full view....

Well, if you get to the other side of the peak,

then you will have a view of that part of Petra, which, as they say, 99% of the tourists who visited it have never set foot on....

To make it clear in the future exactly which places we are inspecting from the Mount of Sacrifice, we will make a reference to the area....

In front of you, in the upper right corner, is a fairly famous building - the Qasr Al-Bint Palace (we will still have time to look at it from below).

and then even further to the left...

If you look more closely at the above photographs, you can see a lot of different tombs and structures. To our great regret, we could not find any information about this part of Petra. Being at the top for about half an hour, we were not able to see the tourists who would have gotten there... Let us immediately note that most of the photographs shown on this page were taken using a telephoto lens, so the actual distance to the objects is quite decent....

Here is our Qasr again,

Before reaching the palace, a little to the left and higher up the slope you can see the columns of the pharaoh...

To the left of the columns is an incomprehensible building. Most likely this is a modern building, because... glass is visible in the openings...

And now we will “walk” near those distant mountains (from right to left), which were discussed above... (We will not comment on anything here. You will just see for yourself how long Petra is and how little we actually know about it)

So, you yourself were able to see that tourists unfortunately do not visit the huge part of Petra, where hundreds of different ancient structures are located....

Although there is nothing strange about this. On the one hand, on the maps that are given at the entrance, these objects are not marked at all, on the other hand, to get here, and then also to return, requires a lot of effort and time....

Now let's go back to the other side of our mountain, which overlooks famous stories places...

From this square (Facade Street) we once began our ascent....

Yes, the number of people there has decreased...

What else did we manage to see from above?

Here in front of us, or rather below us, is the tomb of Uneishu (19). It is quite well preserved. Unlike other tombs, this one has its own courtyard... When excavations were carried out here, they discovered a coin of the Nabatean king Malk II and a number of fragments of slabs with inscriptions, from which it followed that there was a burial place of a royal person...

Well, what else can you see from here? The amount of time is limited, so after breathing in the fresh high-mountain air, we begin to think about the descent...

The descent went quite quickly (relative to the ascent) and without long stops, so after.... minutes we were already at the bottom.....

Here is our amphitheater... By the way, it, like many other buildings in Petra, was at one time quite badly damaged by the earthquake...

We continue our journey through Petra towards the Royal Tombs.... More people...

If you have any strength left, you can deviate slightly from the route and drop by to visit the Nabateans...

And here is another place for a sanitary stop....

A little away from the main caravan route is the already familiar Urn Tomb.

It is said that it got its name from the fact that there is a small urn on top of it. Here it is (the top) in front of you. Where's the trash can?

True, the tomb also has another (local) name: the Bedouins, due to the greatness of the architecture of the structure, called it the Court...

Squeezing through another caravan

Let's start another climb....

At the site at the base of the Urn there is a fairly brisk trade in souvenirs...

A little more and we will be there...

We've all arrived....

You can go inside the tomb. Archaeological excavations are still underway here, so some parts are closed to the public...

The unique color scheme of the ceiling immediately catches your eye....

When you leave, you will again be pursued by the tourist service....

Some sellers have apparently been on this tourist route for a very long time....

The Urn Tomb is followed by a whole series of rich tombs that are part of the Royal ones: the Tomb Palace and to the right of it the Corinthian Tomb. All of them are built in 1st century AD

We took a little breath, looked around and discovered that we still had a long road ahead, not back, but forward and forward...

After all, there are quite a lot of people near that rock on the horizon. So there is something to see there...

We go down to the main square of Petra....

Finally, you can take a breath: relax a little by sitting on a bench for a couple of minutes....

It turns out that not only we are tired, but also the Bedouins, who comfortably settled down near a lonely tree,

The “ships of the desert” also moored for rest.....

Yes, rest is not work.... We relaxed too early. We need to get up and move on...

We are immediately offered to use local transport... But we decide not to change our principles...

To our right, the Royal Tombs are lined up in all their glory...

Our route passes along Colonnade Street (24).... At one time, this was the main street of Petra, along which there were numerous shopping centers, markets, temples....

TO " shopping center"Another and another caravan descends from the mountains....

At the end of Colonnade Street, on the left side as we move, there is the Great Temple of Petra....(for some reason this “small and inconspicuous” building was not marked on our map. Perhaps due to the fact that archaeological work is being carried out in this place and to this day, historians have not fully decided on the purpose of this object...). The temple is truly great in the truest sense of the word - it occupies an area of ​​over 7.5 thousand square meters. and is the largest building in the city...

Our next stop is near Qasr Al-Bint (27) - Temple of the Pharaoh's Daughter. If you look around, this is the only more or less preserved structure. It turns out it's all about its design. Unlike its counterparts, this building is made using a unique technology: its brick blocks are interconnected by juniper twigs. It was thanks to this design that he managed to withstand a strong earthquake...

Ahead appeared, let's say, an original rock....

Ask: “What does this mean?” See for yourself: All openings are closed with modern elements of architectural design (doors, glass), there is quite civil ventilation, etc. New residents of Petra? Everything turned out to be somewhat more prosaic - this is the new Archaeological Museum of Petra...

Near the museum you can have a snack in a cafe in the fresh air, and if you wish, well, if you haven’t seen everything yet, you can spend the night right there in the hotel.

Another feature of this place is a fairly large number of green spaces....

The Archaeological Museum is not the end point of Petra. More roads lead from its walls to the left and to the right. If you move to the left, then after a few kilometers (I don’t know exactly how many) you will come to the part of the city that we saw from the Mount of Sacrifice. If you go to the right, then overcoming a level difference of 350 meters (and this is a winding path and a steep staircase...) you can reach the Ad-Deir Monastery. We no longer had enough strength for such an ascent. And time too. After all, do not forget that there is still a journey in the opposite direction, and this is still several kilometers of travel....

Let's go back...

The Royal Tombs “float” before us again,

central square Petra (although now it is completely deserted)

and the Siq gorge...

And here we are at the finish line...

Well, now that everything is behind me, I’ll tell you a little secret.

We have been to Petra several times: the first time was in excellent sunny weather. Then we spent about 5 hours in this beautiful city, but unfortunately we did not have time to see many interesting moments. The second - three days later (then the weather deteriorated somewhat, swimming in the Red Sea was not very comfortable and part of our small group decided to slip into Petra to see the sights). On this day in Aqaba (where we lived) it was about 15 degrees. above 0 (sea water temperature - 21 degrees) and quite cloudy...

But here is what my “colleagues” encountered on the way to Petra...

The local driver, on the one hand, was incredibly happy - after all, snow is a big holiday for them (although recently there have been a noticeable increase in such holidays in Jordan), and on the other hand, he repeatedly tried to turn around (since he has no skills in driving on a snowy road, especially in the mountains). conditions and on summer tires, like 99.99% of other local drivers, he does not).

In fact, this trip was close to its end (there was fog throughout the mountain section),

but already in the city of Wadi Musa, in the immediate vicinity of the entrance to the Petra Museum, it was taken away as if by hand....

Then our travelers decided to finally see Petra... (you yourself can find some differences in the photographs of those that were taken on a sunny day from a cloudy one). By the way, in their opinion, and according to the footage, on a cloudy day many objects in Petra look much better than in clear weather...

If you want to get acquainted with all of Petra, then you will either need a whole day (from 6 am to 4 pm - the museum is open at this time in winter) and at the same time you will be on the move all the time and by the end of the day you will be completely unsettled (and Not every tourist can handle such a pace), or split the visit over several days. At the same time, Petra’s workers themselves recommend visiting it in three days (the museum’s official website even provides a recommended daily program). In this case, the price of the entrance ticket changes significantly: if a one-time visit costs 50 dinars (for those who stay in Jordan for more than a day), then for three days the ticket price will be only 60 dinars. So everything is in your hands.

In conclusion, I would like to say only one thing - it is not for nothing that Petra is considered one of the seven wonders of the world!

July 7, 2007 legendary cave city Petra in Jordan, along with the Colosseum and the Great Wall of China, was included in the list of “new wonders of the world.” The ancient city is really worthy of your visit, so we are ready to tell you exactly what is important not to miss during a tour of Petra.

The history of the city of Petra in Jordan

Petra received its name from the Semitic word for “rock,” since all the religious buildings of the city were carved from solid red sandstone rocks. The facades were carved from top to bottom, for which purpose special stone steps were placed on either side of them. It is interesting that any error in the calculations excluded the possibility of correcting anything: if the master carved a column thinner than necessary, there was no longer any possibility of replacing it. In addition, the craftsmen actually worked as climbers. For example, in the construction of any European facade, scaffolding was used in 100% of cases. There were no forests here even hundreds of kilometers away. The builders, like sculptors and rock climbers, patiently carved out the facades of the canopy.

Unusual coloring of red sandstone rocks

It is believed that the city was founded by the Edomites - distant descendants of Lot, the one who fled from God's wrath from Sodom and Gomorrah. As is known from the Old Testament history, his daughters, realizing that the entire male population had died, and worrying about the continuation of the family, decided to get their father drunk and, as the Old Testament diplomatically states, “lay down with him.”

In terms of the time of construction, the city as a whole is not homogeneous. Here you can find buildings of the Nabothaeans from the 18th century. BC, as well as the “later” buildings of the Romans - some I-II centuries. already AD. It is known that Petra was at the crossroads of two trade routes. One of them went from south to north and connected the Red Sea coast with Damascus, the other - from east to west and connected the Persian Gulf with Gaza, which at that time was occupied, presumably, by the Phoenicians. The paths crossed in the Petra area, which only made the city richer every year. But with the discovery of the sea route to the East by the Romans, everything ended. The city and the city treasury were empty, the buildings fell into disrepair, and then were completely lost.

Desert ships

It’s interesting that during the Israeli War of Independence the song “Red Rock” was popular among the people and young Israeli fighters considered it daring to ride to Petra and back. In most cases, daring ended in death, but those who returned alive gained almost eternal “glory.” The management, understandably, was extremely dissatisfied with such antics and categorically did not encourage the song.

Excursion to Petra

You can easily get to Petra on your own. The most convenient way is a car. Whether to rent a car and drive it yourself or to leave it in the hands of the driver is a controversial question. On the one hand, if you are driving, you are responsible for safe driving. On the other hand, probably only local drivers have built-in sensors that allow them to quickly respond in emergency situations, of which there may be several at once during your trip.

Important! If you are in Jordan for more than one day, then a ticket to Petra magically turns from 90 Jordanian dinars into 50. And don’t forget to take a map at the entrance to the tourist center - it’s calmer and clearer with it.

1. Genie tanks

The first thing you will encounter on your way is several square stone blocks, which the Bedouins who lived here nicknamed “Tanks of the Djinns,” naively believing in the demonic origin of the stones. By the way, most of the modern names of Petra came to us from the Bedouins, who gave names to certain monuments to the best of their understanding.

Genie tanks

On the road to the gorge on your right there will be a “Bedouin highway” - be careful - this road is for Bedouin carts boldly pretending to be chariots. They rush along it at an insane speed, often turning over and scaring tourists to death.

"Bedouin high way" :)

Typical carts with tourists in Petra

2. "Obelisk" and Triclinium Bar As-Sik

Almost opposite the “Gin Tanks” there is a mysterious building - the “Obelisk” and the Bar Al-Sik triclinium. It consists of two levels: the upper one is an early Nabothaean burial, marked by four obelisks, and the lower one is a triclinium or, in our case, a funeral hall. In the Roman tradition, the triclinium consisted of a table and three benches surrounding it in the shape of the letter "P". The dishes were served from the fourth side. This hall has suffered significantly in recent centuries from countless attempts to find Nabothaean treasures.

Obelisk Tomb

3. As-Sik Gorge

After walking another 400 meters, we will approach the ancient entrance to the As-Sik gorge. It is also the entrance to the Nabataean city of Petra. The length of the gorge is 1200m, and the bizarre natural coloring of the rocks is due to the local rock - red sandstone.

Siq Gorge

The play of sunlight gives an additional “zest” to the unusual coloring of the gorge

To the right of the entrance is a dam. It was built to turn around a mountain river and save the city from spring “floods”. As you enter the gorge, pay attention to the drainage on the right side. The peculiarity of these places is that since ancient times the question of water here was “to be or not to be.” At best, 15 cm of precipitation fell per year in these parts. But the Nabataeans were very inventive and created an entire drainage system, collecting rainwater within a radius of 25 km. Along the entire gorge on both sides of the road there is a drain for fresh water. Whether this water was intended for animals, ablution, or drinking water is now impossible to know.

Drain in the As-Sik gorge

4. Al-Khazneh

Or the “vault” was built by the Nabataeans in the 1st century. AD. The purpose of the complex is still unclear. There is an assumption that the temple was dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis, whose bas-relief was barely preserved in the pier between the columns in the central part of the facade. The two-level facade is entirely carved from rock. On both sides there are steps - these are what the ancient builders used. The lower tier of the six-column Hellenistic façade is crowned by an atypical portico, seemingly divided into three parts. In the spaces between the columns there were bas-reliefs of gods and goddesses. A round urn is visible at the top center. In the 19th century, the Bedouins, thinking that all the treasures of the temple were stored in it, tried to shoot it down with guns.

Al-Khazneh Treasury in Petra

The temple became a global celebrity thanks to Steven Spielberg's film Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, where the hero was looking for the Holy Grail. And that’s why there are always a lot of tourists here too. You have virtually no chance of taking a photo alone with Petra in the background. But opposite the façade there is a small cafe whose benches you can use as a photo podium. This way you will get good pictures, and the crowds of tourists in the background will only add color, and will not spoil the frame with their curious pugs :)

The majestic façade of Al Khazneh

5. Street of facades

Upon exiting the gorge, on the right side there will be the so-called “Street of Facades” - these are the tombs of noble and wealthy Nabateans. History has not left us any more significant details.

Street of facades

From the “street of facades” we climb up to the royal tombs, reach the remains of a Byzantine church and through the “street of colonnades” and the ancient theater we return again to the “street of facades”.

6. Royal Tombs

The first three tombs you will encounter on your way are the Urn Tomb, the Silk Tomb and the Corinthian Tomb. The “Tomb of the Urn” was supposedly created in the 70s AD, and in the mid-15th century. was converted into a Byzantine church.

Royal Tomb

The scale of construction in Petra is truly amazing!

By the way, if you deviate from the route and go towards the ancient theater, which was clearly visible from the “street of facades,” then you will have a stunning view of the gorge and the road. This is where rare photographic ecstasy occurs. The main thing is that the sun does not let us down.

7. Palace Tomb

You and I move on and go to the Palace Tomb. You will recognize it by its wide facade. It is believed that this facade resembled Roman palaces, hence the assumption that only royal or especially noble persons could be buried in such a grandiose building. Which, however, is not confirmed by written sources.

Palace Tomb

8. Tomb of Sextius of Florence

Behind the Palace Tomb is the only building for which scientists know for certain for whom and when it was built. Sextius was the Roman governor of Arabia and, as sources tell us, he wanted to be buried in Petra, for which purpose in 126-130. and this tomb was hollowed out.

Now is the time to look around the valley and find a white tent canopy - this is our next stop.

Camels are the safest way to get around Petra. They are difficult to disperse on the local highway.

11. Colonnade Street

Along the Roman street of colonnades we return back to the gorge. There will be remnants on your right side temple complex, which without undue modesty is called the Great Temple. Pay attention to the columns lying on the ground in a beautifully sliced ​​sausage - this is the result of a powerful earthquake in the 8th century. Next we go to the ancient theater, now we have a chance to look at it up close.

Among the rocks that are truly valuable, it’s easy to find mountains of Bedouin “remake” :)

12. Ancient theater

The theater was carved out of the rock in the 1st century AD and originally seated 3,000 spectators. Later it was expanded by the Romans to 7000. If you look closely, you will see three tiers of spectator seats, divided into sectors by stairs. The front façade of the theater once faced the road. On its sides there were still black eye sockets of the entrances through which spectators entered the building. Only a few columns have survived from the portico, but at the time of its greatness the stage was decorated with a row of seven small Ionic porticos.

Ancient theater in Petra

Having completed your tour of the theater, you have a long way back. Of course, you can take the Bedouin Highway and even take part in the Chariot Races. But is it worth it? Take care and have a nice trip!

Couldn’t they travel [study the history of past centuries and millennia, and then visit the preserved monuments, capitals of states and civilizations that once flourished and crushed any enemy], having at the same time understanding hearts and hearing ears?!

It is not people’s eyes that go blind, but their hearts that are in their chests [they do not heed the lessons of the past in the present, they do not try to understand them. Their whole life is a run from nowhere to nowhere along a narrow path of stereotypes and personal interpretations, subjective conclusions].*

Holy Koran 22:46

Impressed?

Then let's reveal our cards a little.

So, Petra (Arabic: البتراء‎‎) - ancient city, capital Edomites (Edom), later the capital of the Nabataean kingdom. Located on the territory of modern Jordan, at an altitude of more than 900 m above sea level and 660 m above the surrounding area, the Arava Valley, in the narrow Siq canyon.

Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan or Jordan - an Arab state in the Middle East. It borders with Syria in the north, Iraq in the northeast, with Saudi Arabia- in the east and south, with Israel and Palestine - in the west. Jordan shares with Israel and Palestine coastlines Dead Sea and Gulf of Aqaba with Israel, Saudi Arabia and Egypt.

About 90% of the kingdom's territory is occupied by deserts and semi-deserts.

Jordan's most famous landmark is , the city we are interested in Petra , located 262 kilometers south of Amman, and 133 kilometers north of Aqaba in the Wadi Musa valley.

The ancient city is the property of the Bedouins, who manufacture and sell souvenirs on the territory of the museum, and also offer rides on horses or camels. In place of the current one Petra was the first fortified settlement, called " Sela" — "stone, rock". Later this name was translated into Greek - Petra ("stone").

Petra - the capital of the Nabatean kingdom and one of the most beautiful and well-preserved ancient cities. Petra is included in the list world heritage UNESCO and is one of the new wonders of the world. In ancient times, Petra was located on the trade route connecting the Middle East, Arabia and India.

Historians believe that the city was built by the Nabateans, Arab tribes of nomads who settled on these lands in the 3rd millennium BC. Petra's appearance owes much to Greco-Roman culture, which the Nabataeans adapted to their needs. Beginning with a few easily defended caves in the rocks, Petra gradually grew into an impregnable fortress city. The lands of the former Nabatean kingdom and Peter were completely forgotten in the West.

The first modern European to see and describe Petra was the Swiss traveler Johann Ludwig Burckhardt in 1812.

The very location of Petra is surprising, namely the mountains, which, depending on the time of day, change their color from dark red to pink and even orange.

Getting to the ancient city is not so easy; you will have to cover several kilometers on foot: first go down and then climb back through Siq gorge. From the east and west the cliffs drop steeply, forming natural walls up to 80 m in height.

Here is a description of this path, made in the 70s: “The path to the city lies through this passage. Its length is about 1.2 km, and its width is from 4 to 10 meters or more. The spectacle is truly unforgettable: reddish and brownish rocks up to 80 m high hang on both sides; A strip of sky is blue above, coarse gravel and sand rustle underfoot, and it smells of dampness and mold. The Romans failed to take Petra for several years; its inhabitants, blocking the only narrow passage leading to the fortified city, could hold back an entire army with small forces...

Walking down the aisle- both on the right and on the left above my head are these cut up, gnawed stones of red color. During the rainy season, this gorge turns into a rapid, turbulent stream. The road is decorated with the remains of an ancient pavement and rock bas-reliefs, and along the edges, like a railing, a water trench meanders, delivering water to Petra.

The beginning of the gorge through which you can get to Petra itself

Already approaching the exit from the gorge, we freeze in amazement: through the hole in the dark corridor, about fifty meters from its end, a pink building illuminated by the sun with columns and an elegant pediment is clearly visible. A few more minutes of patience and in front of us is one of the monumental tombs of Petra... What is most striking is that it is a solid stone mass without any additions.

It opens around the corner El Khazneh- a majestic building with a facade carved from a huge rock. It is one of the best preserved structures from the first century. The building is crowned by a huge stone urn, which supposedly contained gold and precious stones - hence the name of the temple (translated from Arabic as “treasury”).

The interior of one of the “rooms” of El Khazneh.

Here you can clearly see that all this was carved out of a solid stone mass.

Once around the rock and the Al-Khazneh Palace, you will find yourself surrounded by hundreds of rock-cut buildings, temples, tombs, small and large residential buildings, tombs and festive halls, long staircases, arches and cobbled streets. A little lower, a huge Roman amphitheater carved from stone, which once accommodated more than 4 thousand spectators.

High in the mountains above the city there is a sacred place of worship of the gods, from where a stunning panorama of Petra opens up - an amphitheater, a Byzantine church and tombs of the kings, Roman colonnades, the mausoleum of Aaron, and the main temple of the Nabateans - Qazr al-Bint.

Here is a list of the most interesting of them: El-Khazneh ("Treasury", the tomb of one of the Nabataean kings), Ad-Deir ("Monastery"), Sakhrij ("Djinn's Blocks"), "Obelisk Tomb", "Facade Square", sacred Mount Jebel Al-Madbah ("Mountain of Sacrifice"), "Royal Tombs", Mugar An-Nasar ("Caves of the Christians"), Theatre, Byzantine church behind the ruins of the Nymphaeum, Al-Uzza Atargatis ("Temple of the Winged Lions"), Qasr Al -Bint (“Palace of the Pharaoh’s Daughter”, although the pharaohs, naturally, have nothing to do with this building), etc.

The city has two archaeological museums: the old (in Mount Jebel Al-Habis) and the new, with excellent collections, as well as many monuments identified with biblical chronicles - the Wadi Musa valley itself ("Valley of Moses"), Mount Jebel Harun (Mount of Aaron , where, according to legend, the high priest Aaron died), the source of Ain Musa (“The Source of Moses”), etc.

Petra was called a “nest of robbers”, “bloody stones”, “cursed place”, “city of evil spirits”, “ghost city”, “city of bloody altars”, “city of the dead”.

The territory of Petra occupies a large area. From the center, where the ruins of numerous buildings are well preserved, no longer rock-built, but built in the traditional way, made of stone, it extends for several kilometers.

The main street, stretching from east to west through the entire city, was laid during Roman rule. A majestic colonnade stretches on both sides of it. The western end of the street abutted big temple, and the eastern one ended with a three-span triumphal arch.

Ed-Deir is a monastery carved into the rock at the top of a cliff - a huge building about 50 m wide and more than 45 m high. Judging by the crosses carved on the walls, the temple served as a Christian church for some time.

Later, after researchers excavated the space under the monastery, they discovered the tomb of one of the Nabatean kings.

Here is a very educational video from the National Geographic Channel:

The remains of this cities of the dead"are an edification for us who live after them. In the SacredIn the Koran, the Almighty tells us in several verses about the destroyed peoples and villages:

How many settlements We destroyed along with their sinful, godless inhabitants: [old] houses collapsed and became empty, wells [water supply systems] became useless and fell into disrepair, and [solid] palaces built [using the latest science and technology] [ if they remained standing, they were empty and deserted].*

Holy Quran, 22:45

Each of the human communities has its own term [nothing lasts forever in this world, everything (people, peoples, cities, states, eras, civilizations) has an earthly beginning and end]. If it comes, then nothing can be changed (it is impossible to delay it or speed it up).*

Holy Quran, 7:34

Haven’t you seen what your Lord did to the ‘adites?! [With their tribe] Iram, who had [majestic] buildings supported by columns. There were no people like them [powerful and strong, smart] anywhere until that moment.

Holy Quran 89:6-8

Don’t they see [don’t know] how many civilizations were destroyed by Us earlier! Truly, they will not return to them [to the existing ones]!*

Holy Quran 36:31

In conclusion, I will quote the words of a Muslim scholar-sage who was asked:

“Why do we hear edifications and instructions, but cannot benefit from them, they are not reflected in our lives?

The sage replied: “For five reasons:

First: Allah has endowed you with many bounties, granted you countless blessings, but you have lost your sense of gratitude towards Him

Second: having committed a sin, you stopped feeling the fear of God’s wrath, you stopped asking for mercy with deeds and words

Third: You don't follow what you know.

Fourth: There are righteous, well-behaved people in your environment, but you don’t even think of emulating them.

And the last one“: you bury the dead, see off many of your loved ones and acquaintances to another world, but cannot learn an instructive lesson from this”

As-Samarkandi N. Tanbih al-gafilin.P.292

O Allah, fill our hearts with timidity before Your greatness and power. Awaken in us this feeling, which will manifest itself in our tears, which will be filled in the future life with heavenly springs in the highest degrees of Firdavs! Amine.

Radia Zavdetovna,

Mahalla No. 1

*With comments by Sh. Alyautdinov

Materials used when writing this article:

Wikipedia

Sh. Alyautdinov “The Holy Quran. Meanings"

I. Alyautdinov “Know. Believe. Honor"

I already wrote about this miracle, but then I found more photos and material. I collected it in a pile and posted it again. Admire it.

About 2,500 years ago it was built in Jordan beautiful city, named Petra.

It was the capital of the Nabataean kingdom, which flourished for 200 years and was conquered by the Romans, after which the city sank into oblivion.

Civilization disappeared, and the Nabatean treasures were never found. Where did they disappear to?

Treasury of Petra

The Nabateans built the mysterious Petra, and now tourists gasp in admiration when they meet the city in the rock. Information about the Nabatean state came through the works of Diodorus, Strabo and Josephus, and is mentioned in ancient Chinese sources about the Great Silk Road.

But there is no information about the origin of the Nabateans themselves. Only guesses are left. They may be descendants of Ishmael (he had a son, Nabayoth), son of Abraham, or the lost tribe of Israel from the time of the destruction of the First Temple. Or maybe they are a sect (the Nabataeans, who founded the city of Babylon after the Flood, or, according to E. Blavatsky, a mystical caste dedicated to the god of Secret Wisdom?

The early Nabataeans were ruled by a pagan cult. The main deities of their pantheon were Dushara and his female parallel Allat, the mother of all gods. The finale of the tombstone inscription that has come down to us reads: “and this mausoleum will be sacred and reserved in accordance with the custom of the sacred and reserved, which is dedicated to Dushara and declared reserved by the Nabateans and Salamis.”

During Roman rule, Allat was identified with Athena, Venus, Dushara - with Zeus and Dionysus. And the late Greek narrative of Epiphanius draws an analogy between the Nativity of Christ and Dushara, celebrated on the same day.

The future Nabatean state covered the central and southern parts of modern Jordan, the southern and southeastern part of Israel (the Arabian Basin), the central and southern Negev, which was closely adjacent to the Kingdom of Judah. In the 2nd century BC. a powerful leap takes place in the history of the Nabateans. Over the course of a century, this people turns from nomadic to sedentary.

The Nabataeans became famous as skilled architects. In addition, they mastered the science of irrigation better than other nations. The Arabian desert bloomed with gardens only under the Nabataeans.

Most of the kingdom's inhabitants became traders. Now they set their own prices and collected duties. They made Petra their capital, located at the intersection of three main trade routes, where, according to legend, they store untold wealth.

Speaking a pro-Arabic language, the Nabateans created a writing system in Aramaic, which would later significantly influence Arabic. The Nabataeans themselves switched to the Greek language towards the end of the kingdom.

The sheikhs who reign at first are replaced by kings who strive for complete deified power. Arethas IV titles himself as “he who loved his people.” The Nabatean elite is related to the Jewish one. King Herod's mother was a Nabataean queen.

The capital of the kingdom of Petra was a key transit hub where all the caravan routes of the ancient world converged. The Egyptians carried their goods to the Roman Empire and Arabia. The Arabians spread frankincense and myrrh throughout the world through Petra. And in those days they were valued higher than gold.

The Nabatean city was not just a caravanserai on the route of merchants. He played the role of the exchange. Many merchants did not dare to go further through the desert and handed over the goods to the residents of Petra, who then sold it. Coins of their own mintage circulated here.

For two hundred years Nabatea flourished. In 106 AD the end of the independent state comes. The Roman Emperor Troyan achieved a difficult victory. From the 4th century AD. Nabatea gradually dissolves into Christian Byzantium and disappears without a trace in the Middle Ages.

Only Bedouins have the right to live in Petra

The Mystery of the Holy Grail

Already a year and a half in hot Jordan, in ancient city An expedition of Russian archaeologists is working in Petra. Our experts are exploring the dungeons of the legendary city. It is in them, according to some sources, that the untold wealth of the Nabataeans may be hidden.

The city was built at a high architectural level: the skill of the ancient engineers, who managed to carve caves in the sandy rocks so that they would not be filled up or washed out, is admirable. Arab art historians still do not believe that Petra could have been built by people at all. They do not understand what methods were used by the nomadic Nabataeans in such high-tech construction. The city was built very quickly and was also quickly populated. Its heyday occurred in the 1st century BC, and the last mention dates back to the 7th century after the Nativity of Christ.

There are residential apartments and apartments in the rocks. Almost everywhere there are places for prayer: on one side there are recesses in the stone to make it more convenient to stand, and on the opposite side there are icons. There is a grand amphitheater that seats about 3,000 people and served as a place for lavish funerals.

According to one version, part of the treasures of the pharaohs is kept in Petra. According to another, a spiritual treasure is hidden there - the Holy Grail, in search of which the crusaders came here. Historians claim that the Nabateans themselves could well have accumulated enough gold and jewelry.

Today, the main occupation of the local Bedouin residents is trade. They sell mainly handicraft souvenirs for tourists that have no artistic or other value. And their ancestors did not waste their time on trading trinkets and homemade consumer goods, preferring goods made of gold, silver, and precious stones.

In the city, here and there small jars with treasures are dug up. In souvenir shops you can buy jewelry - bracelets, necklaces - with stylized antique coins. And tourists always find something antique in the sands - fragments of pottery, funeral urns. Those with a serious interest in numismatics are referred to black archaeologists, despite the fact that illegal archeology is severely punished in Jordan. However, it’s hard to resist when caches are hidden somewhere nearby, and no one wants to believe that there are no real treasures left in such a rich city.

City of dead

The main place that has long been favored by treasure hunters is Al Khazneh. Translated from Arabic - treasury or treasury. In search of gold, the Bedouins even shot down the front of the building with guns. Interestingly, the top of this building is crowned with a large stone pot. Locals They cannot understand why it was necessary to decorate a majestic building with an ordinary pot, which belongs in a pottery workshop. There is a legend among the Bedouins that ancient treasures are hidden in it. They say that if you hit the pot successfully, then the well-aimed shooter will literally be showered with gold and precious stones. But this is just a legend.

But where then are the treasures that, despite all attempts, cannot be found, and were they there at all? Deputy Director of the Institute of Oriental Studies of the Russian Academy of Sciences for scientific affairs, Doctor of Economic Sciences Vladimir Isaev, believes that taking into account the position of Petra in ancient world By definition, it was supposed to store untold wealth. However, the scientist suggested that they had been plundered long ago. Art critic Lev Maciel Sanchez adheres to the same version. He is confident that the valuables were gradually carried away by the inhabitants of Petra themselves, leaving the dying city, after in the 3rd century the main trade routes began to shift north, to Palmyra.

Royal Tombs in Petra

Jordanian guides claim that the legacy of the great Nabateans has not disappeared from Petra. They say that under the visible part of the city there is a whole complex of caves, in which the Nabatean treasury is hidden.

To date, scientists have studied only a small part stone city. Those buildings that are close to the surface of the earth have been excavated. Only recently, literally last years, archaeologists began to make their way deeper. And they were immediately rewarded: having laid an excavation in front of Al Khazneh, the scientists found hitherto unknown burials. It seems that Petra is only now beginning to reveal her main secrets.

Petra Caves

People still live in the caves of Petra

Monastery in Petra, Jordan

Petra at night

Access to the valley is possible through gorges located in the north and south, while in the east and west the cliffs drop sheer, forming natural walls up to 60 m in height. In 2007, Petra was recognized as one of the new Seven Wonders of the World.

These days, about half a million tourists come to Jordan every year to see Petra, whose buildings testify to its glorious past. As tourists walk through the cool kilometer-long Siq Canyon, around a bend they discover the Treasury, a majestic building with a facade carved from a huge rock.

It is one of the best preserved structures from the first century. The building is crowned by a huge urn made of stone, which supposedly contained gold and precious stones - hence the name “Treasury”.

The canyon gradually widens, and tourists find themselves in a natural amphitheater, in the sandstone walls of which there are many caves. But the main thing that catches your eye is the crypts carved into the rocks. The colonnade and amphitheater testify to the presence of the Romans in the city in the first and second centuries. Bedouins offer camel rides to tired tourists, sell souvenirs and water their herds of goats at city springs, the waters of which quench the thirst of people and animals.

On the hottest days, such as Fridays or holidays, Petra receives up to 3,000 visitors. On a normal day - 1500 people. If there are less than 1000 tourists, the day is considered quiet. So try not to come on a Friday or a weekend if you don't like crowds. However, it must be said that the city is so large that you will always find a less crowded place.

How long to spend here

The village of Wadi Musa, which serves Petra, has no more than 1,200 beds, so many come on a day trip from Aqaba or Amman. For a thorough inspection, it makes sense to spend at least two nights in the city, or even better, three, in order to devote two days entirely to exploring the city.

How to get there

Petra is located 260 km from Amman, the trip there takes 3.5 hours along the Desert Highway and 6 hours along the Royal Highway. Daytime excursions by JETT bus depart at 6.00 (in winter at 6.30) and return at 15.30 (in winter at 15.00). The ticket price includes lunch in Petra; entrance ticket is paid separately.

Panorama of Petra

Admission ticket

Keep in mind that admission prices have skyrocketed to astronomical heights: in February 2007, a one-day ticket cost 21 dinars, a two-day ticket cost 26 dinars, and a three-day ticket cost 31 dinars. Children under 15 years old are admitted free of charge. In the late 1980s, the entrance ticket cost only 1 dinar. Entry by horse will cost you an additional 7 dinars, and by car - 20 dinars.

Tourists on camels

Preparing for your visit

First of all, you need to be in good physical shape to be able to explore everything the city has to offer: there will be a lot of walking, climbing up uneven paths and uncomfortable surfaces. Also, shoes are very important. It should be comfortable and able to withstand prolonged contact with an untreated surface.

The next equally important thing is sun protection. Wear loose clothing that does not fit your body, a hat, and sunscreen. You will also need water. Bring a small bottle with you to avoid dehydration. From food - something small and non-melting, like nuts or cereal.

Influx of tourists

Service

Today there is no shortage of refreshment stalls in the city; there are several good restaurants concentrated in the Qasr Al Bint area, an hour's walk from the entrance. However, the prices are quite high, so you may prefer to bring something that is not too heavy. There are few toilets here, and they are all located in restaurants.

Photography

Don't forget to take your camera with you, because Petra is one of the most photogenic places in the world. When shooting, it is important to take into account the angle of incidence of the sun's rays. The sun illuminates the facade of the Treasury from 9.00 to 10.00 in winter and from 8.30 to 9.30 in summer. As for the second monumental facade, Ad Deir, the sun does not hit it until 14.00.

Petra: from the Siku entrance

Bab al-Siq (Gateway to Siq)

Once through the entrance gate, you will be walking through a wide, open valley for the first 15-20 minutes. The first sights you will see here are the tombstones of the genies. (genies are characters of Arabic folklore, similar to our ghosts or spirits). This is a group of three free-standing stone cubes to the right of the road. These are believed to be tombstones. The largest block is deeply carved with a "crow's footprint" design, a common Nabatean design and a signature of Petra.

Obelisk in the rock

Continuing along the main path, you will come to an obelisk carved into the rock on your left. It dates back to the 1st century. n. BC, the period of the last Nabatean kings, and shows traces of a wide variety of influences - Egyptian in the obelisks resembling pyramids, and classical in the columns, pediments and niches for statues. In fact, these are two tombs one on top of the other: the upper one with four obelisks and the lower one in the shape of a triclinium with benches carved into the rock on three sides.

Sik

narrow gorge

After the trail makes its final bend to the right along the valley, you will approach the Siq directly, ascending a small slope of the dam and then descending to gorge level. This dam was built to mark and secure the entrance to the Siq after a group of tourists drowned in a flood in 1963.

During the time of the Nabateans, the Siq was paved with limestone along its entire length - only fragments of this “pavement” remain today. At its narrowest point, the Siq is only 2 meters wide, which makes the 100-meter cliffs rising on both sides look even more impressive. The colors of the rocks here are mostly red-brown; time, wind and rain have caused erosion and given them fancy shapes. In many places you can see fragments of stone stairs leading to abandoned sanctuaries hidden in the rocks.

Dam

Water supply systems

While constructing a dam at the entrance to the Siq, the builders discovered traces of an ancient Nabatean dam and water canals; they managed to some extent to “rely” on these structures when constructing new ones. Apparently, the Nabataeans also wanted to use the Siq as a year-round entrance to the city, which required protecting it from winter floods. They also invented a workable water supply system: water flowed through canals carved into the rocks on either side of the Siq - these canals can still be seen today, particularly on the left, at human height. And on the right there are several ceramic pipes preserved.

Peter: from the treasury to the high altar

Treasury (Al-Khazneh)

The walk along the Siq takes almost half an hour, but it usually feels longer due to the many twists and turns of the path and because you will rarely see more than 20m of path in front of you. All the better will you remember the moment when the brightly lit façade of the Treasury at the end of a dark gorge suddenly appears before you.

The Bedouins call the Treasury "Al-Jerra" ("Urn")- a 4-meter urn rises above its portico. Local belief says that this urn contains the treasures of the pharaohs. The urn is the least preserved detail of the façade; it is dotted with traces of rifle shots - barbaric attempts to destroy it and extract treasures.

In fact, like the entire monument, the urn is carved into the rock. The hidden location of the Treasury allowed other architectural elements of the facade to be preserved - decorative friezes and statues.

The original purpose of the building and the date of its construction remained a mystery for a long time. Some scientists attributed it to the 1st century. BC e., others - to the I-II centuries. n. e. However, modern scholars are inclined to believe that it was erected during the reign of Aretas IV, who died in 40 AD. e. It is believed that this was the sanctuary of Tyche (Isis), the goddess depicted in the center of the pediment with a cornucopia in her hands. According to another version, this is the tombstone of the king.

Most scholars are convinced that foreign workers and architects took part in the construction of the Treasury - otherwise it is impossible to explain the combination of such diverse elements in Nabataean design. The columns and capitals are Corinthian, the huge obelisks are Egyptian, and the statue of Tyche (Isis) clearly bears traces of Alexandrian influence (Petra actively traded with Alexandria). On the facade of the building you can see figures of winged sphinxes, a lion, a panther, snakes and dancing Amazons. In contrast, the interior is very simple, not to say ascetic.

200 m from the Treasury you will see a sign, following which you will come to this amazing monument. The steep climb up the steps carved into the rock and through the corridor will take about 35 minutes; an impressive transition into another world - full of silence and removed from Petra's heart. It’s as if you are participating in a ritual procession - and indeed, the priests once walked along the same path, leading the procession to the place of sacrifice. Two 7-meter high obelisks mark the entrance to this sanctuary, located behind the ruined fortress. At the top of the sandstone mountain is an altar; Steps lead to it, and gutters extend from it to drain the blood of sacrificial animals.

Nothing specific is known about the ceremonies held here, but the view from the altar is stunning - you can even see Aaron's tiny tomb on Mount Jebel Haroun (Mount Aaron), revered by Muslims and visited by Christian pilgrims.

Petra: from theater to Ad-Deir

Theater

There is a theater 300 m to the left of the Siq. Despite the fact that the building has been badly damaged by erosion, it is still impressive in its size and surprises with the scale of work that was required to carve 40 rows of seats into the rock. Like the Treasury, it was erected during the time of Aretas IV (1st century AD). It was later rebuilt by the Romans, who captured Petra in 106, but all the work of the masons went down the drain due to the terrible earthquake of 363. The theater could accommodate about 8,000 spectators.

Qasr Al-Bint (Palace of the Virgin)

This temple, dominating the Lower City, is the most important Nabatean temple of Petra. It was built in the 1st century. BC e. The "Virgin" to whom it is dedicated was supposedly the daughter of the pharaoh who lived in the temple but suffered from a lack of water. She announced that she would marry the man who would provide the palace with water supply. Probably, such a craftsman was found, because during excavations, channels and a drainage carved into the stone were discovered at the foot of the palace.

The impressive facade is made of sandstone blocks; its height in some places reaches 25 m. In the center of the temple is the sanctum sanctorum, where a statue of the deity used to stand. Busts of people standing in niches were destroyed in the heat of the fight against paganism. During the time of the Romans, the temple fell into disrepair; in the Byzantine period and the Middle Ages there were living quarters and stables here.

Ad-Deir (Monastery)

The climb to Ad Deir is for many the most memorable part of the walk in Petra. There are magnificent panoramic views all around. For two and a half hours, you make a circular procession from Qasr Al Binta past the Tomb of the Lion Triclinium, a rock-cut sanctuary (Qattar al-Deir) and the early Christian Hermitage.

Suddenly you find yourself on the edge of a huge open sand terrace, and to your right rises the colossal rock facade of Ad Deir, the sight of which makes you feel like a pygmy. Its height is 45 m, width - 50 m. This is the largest monument in Petra. The height of the urn at the top of the facade is 10 m. The name "Monastery" comes from the many crosses carved on the rear wall, suggesting that this structure was used by the first Christians in the 4th century, attracted by its secluded location.

Originally it was most likely a Nabataean temple, but some scholars are inclined to consider it the unfinished tomb of one of the Nabataean kings (the fact that the tomb was not completed is evidenced by the absence of any statues or other decorations in the niches). Like the Treasury, this building dates from the 1st century. n. e. It follows the same style, although the stone used for Ad-Deir is yellower and its lines are bolder and more imposing. Conquerors of the peaks will not be able to deny themselves the pleasure of climbing to the urn along the dilapidated steps to the left of the facade.

Tombs of Petra

In the vicinity of Petra, about 107 tombs with benches inside were discovered, and scientists suggest that some of them were used not only for specific, but also for utilitarian purposes - they ate and even slept there.

Tombs of Petra

Hidden corners of Petra

Despite the fact that Petra is visited by 1,500 tourists every day, its 200 km² territory has many corners where you are guaranteed privacy. Below we will talk about some of them.

Al Madras

If you arrive in Petra late in the evening and have a few hours of daylight left, this excursion to the Al Madrasa Sanctuary is an ideal and unconventional choice.

Buy a two-day entry ticket to be able to enter the city the next morning. The path to Al Madras goes to the left before reaching the Siq - where the main road goes to the right. There is a sign here, and the trail begins just beyond it, skirts a low stone wall, and slants southwest toward a group of rocky cliffs. Passing through the woods and then past stone pyramids, you will come out to a staircase carved into stone, broken but wide. In 10 minutes you will climb several flights of stairs and come to a grassy sanctuary with stone tombs, cisterns, niches and stairs leading even higher to two pools and an altar, or “high place” as it is called in Petra. There are magnificent views from all sides, especially at sunset.

Jebel Haroun and Sabra

Sabra is a free-standing Nabatean suburb of Petra and even has its own theater. You can get here in two hours from Qasr Al-Bint, located in Petra, on foot or by horse. The scenery along the way is beautiful - you will pass several wadis and mountain peaks, including Jebel Haroun with its white sanctuary and the tomb of the high priest Aaron on the 1396 m peak.

It will take two hours to climb there from Qasr Al-Bint, but the road here is not easy, it is better to take a guide. The entire journey, except the last 20 minutes, can be done on horseback.

The tomb itself was restored by the Mamluk Sultan Kal-Aun in the 13th century, and until then monks of the Greek Orthodox Church lived there. It is now closed and is still revered as a sacred shrine by Muslims and Christians. The story of Aaron's death is found in the Bible (Numbers 20:23-29).

This excursion lasts a full day; you will need a guide. It is also necessary to stock up on water and food.

You can also take this excursion with your own transport if you arrive in Petra too late to see the main attractions, but still have a couple of hours of daylight left. Little Petra (also known as Siq el Bared)- a good “introduction” to Petra, it’s like a miniature suburb that most tourists don’t visit. The concrete road is signposted from the very beginning of the climb - from Wadi Musa; its length is 10 km to the north. After 2 km the road begins to go uphill; look to the left at the ruined remains of Al-Wuair, the main crusader castle of Petra. It was built in the 12th century, and the Crusaders called it Le Vaux Moise, which means “Valley of Moses.” (in Arabic - "Wadi Moussa").

The concrete surface ends at the iron gate - this is the entrance to Little Petra; The gate is impressive in its compactness - three narrow passages lead into three gorges. Everywhere you can see traces of the Nabataean water supply system and steps that will lead you to the mysterious altars. At the end of the third gorge, the last staircase will lead you to an open terrace and then to the adjacent valley. This unusual connection of all three valleys through flights of stairs and a network of paths will undoubtedly surprise you. Open: during daylight hours. Free admission.

From Qasr Al-Bint, located in Petra, you can make a daring and challenging leap to Umm al-Biarah, a high rock formation that dominates the entire Petra valley. Few tourists dare to do this, and it is better to take a local guide, as the climb is difficult. Just make an agreement with the service boy - he will be only too happy to help you for a small fee.

The return trip to Qasr Al-Bint will take three hours and half an hour to explore the summit.

Part of the way you will climb a stunning stone staircase, the best in Petra, experiencing all the feelings of a participant in a ritual procession: the staircase is zigzag. Higher up it is blocked by fallen rocks, and you will have to climb the rest of the climb on all fours along steep, narrow paths. On the surprisingly wide peak you will find the ruins of an Edomite settlement - the original inhabitants of Petra - dating back to the 7th century. BC BC, discovered during excavations in 1960 by British archaeologists - food and water were delivered to them by helicopter. From the westernmost point of the summit there are wonderful views of Wadi Araba and Jebel Haroun - the best volcanic landscape you will ever see.

Wadi Mujib Nature Reserve

This reserve, covering an area of ​​212 km² between the Royal Highway and Dead Sea, provides hiking opportunities, including the best adventure route in Jordan - a 36-kilometer two-day trek along the river. Mujib. Applications for participation in all hikes must be sent in advance to the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (www.rscn.org.jo). Entry into the reserve without prior agreement is prohibited.

The diversity of flora and fauna in these protected areas is amazing. It is home to the rare Syrian wolf, Blanford's fox, Egyptian mongoose, spotted hyena, caracal and many species of snakes, including the venomous desert cobra and viper. There are fenced areas in the reserve for endangered Nubian ibises - several individuals have already been released. Here you can admire the most pristine wadi landscape in Jordan and have an unforgettable experience. It is possible - with the prior permission of the administration - to spread camping and live for a few days.

Wadi Mujib Nature Reserve

A short walk around Petra

This walk through the main attractions of Petra is designed for the whole day, if you walk slowly, stopping often to rest. If the physical activity is too strenuous for you, take a horse-drawn carriage or rent a horse. In this way you can get to the Treasury, and then ride a donkey to Ad-Deir. You will find plenty of young people offering horse-drawn transport services.

The length of the walk is 6 km. Best time it starts at 8.30 am. The return from the last point - Ad Deir - with numerous stops will take 2-3 hours, so you will return to the entrance no later than 6 pm.

Walk down from the hotel to the visitor center, behind which is the ticket office; here you need to buy a day ticket, which is presented at the entrance to Petra.

Djinn Blocks and Obelisk Tomb

After an easy 10 minute walk down the hill you will come to three giant rock blocks (left)- these strange hollow multi-story structures served as tombstones. A little further on the left you will see an obelisk carved into the rock - the first example of structures that are found in abundance in the city.

Siq

It is worth walking slowly through this narrow gorge - there is a lot to see. Spend half an hour exploring the aqueduct ruins and colorful rocks.

The exit from the gorge is located opposite the Treasury.

Treasury

This is the most famous of Petra's attractions. The facade of the Treasury makes a stunning impression. If you want to take the best photos, you should come here between 9 and 10 am. Follow the main winding wide path leading to the Theater (left).

Theater

The building is carved into the rock, the colors are stunning and the acoustics are still excellent, as numerous groups of tourists will demonstrate.

Continue along the main path - it ends at the entrance to the Lower City; here you will find several restaurants.

Lower Town

Here you can explore a number of interesting buildings; look out for Qasr Al-Bint. Having examined everything you consider necessary, relax and have lunch at some restaurant.

From the bridge over the wadi, near the Basin restaurant, a narrow rocky path leads to the right and winds up to Ad Deir; the afternoon sun illuminates its façade favorably.

Ad-Deir

This monastery is the second most important attraction in Petra.

Turn back towards the Lower Town and return past the Theater and Treasury; re-enter the Siq and return to the gate through which you entered the city.

Ad-Deir

Long walk in Petra

The walk covers as many attractions as you can possibly see in a day, especially if you decide to walk the entire Siq. It's a great introduction to Petra, including two long climbs, one in the morning and one in the afternoon. The route is designed for a good level of fitness and has fewer rest stops than the short route.

The total length of the walk is about 9 km. The ideal time to leave is no later than 8 am, then you will be back around 6 pm.

Follow the path from the entrance for 700m until you see a small path turning left, past the obelisk but before reaching the dam. It leads up to Al Madras. Its length is 400 m.

Al-Madras

This detour and climb up several flights of stairs carved into the rock is worth making to see the site of ancient cults.

Return to the main path and follow it further towards Siku.

Siq

It takes about 25 minutes to walk slowly through the Siq. During this time you will be able to explore it and enjoy the unique sensation you will experience when the gorge narrows.

Sik will lead you straight to the Treasury.

Treasury

The stunning facade of this building is the most famous thing about Petra. It's worth staying here, remembering that the best light is between 9 and 10 am. 200 m behind the Treasury you will see a sign “to the left”: along worn stone steps you will ascend to the High Altar.

High Place of Sacrifice

The “ceremonial rise” will take approximately 35 minutes. In front of you are two obelisks, above which there is an altar and an altar itself, located on the top of a rock.

Return to the obelisks and go, without turning, along the small path forward, to the left, to the theater. The path will lead you to a staircase leading down to a narrow stone corridor, past a lion fountain, to Wadi Farazah.

Wadi Farazah

Wadi Farasa

At the foot of the stairs you will see the Garden Tombstone with its lovely classical façade. The stairs to his right lead to a huge cistern. Below are several more tombstones carved into the rock. From here you will have to walk 30 minutes under the scorching sun to the north, to the Lower City and the most interesting building - Qasr Al-Bint.

Lower city

Lower Town

Here you can relax and have lunch in one of the restaurants while enjoying the view of the surrounding area. From the bridge over the wadi behind the Basin restaurant, follow the small rocky path winding up the hill to the right. After about an hour you will come to Petra's second remarkable monument.

Ad Deir

This magnificent façade faces west and is best viewed in the afternoon sun. Those who are not yet tired of climbing can climb to the right, to the central urn, starting from the rocks on the left side of the facade.

Return along the same road to the Lower City, past the colonnades of the Cardo Maximus, viewing other monumental facades on the way to the Treasury. Return to the gate via the Siq on foot or by horse-drawn transport.

History of Petra

The nomadic Nabatean tribes moved north from northern Arabia to the country designated in the Bible as Edom at the beginning of the 6th century. BC, gradually displacing the indigenous Edomite population. They showed themselves to be a powerful and independent force by the 4th century. BC e. By that time, Petra had become their base. Its appeal was obvious: natural security, a safe water supply, fertile lands favorable for agriculture and cattle breeding, all in addition to its strategically advantageous location at the crossroads of trade routes along which silk and spice caravans traveled to the north and east. The name “Nabateans” comes from the Arabic root “nabat”, meaning “heart”, “center”.

Nabatean gods

They brought with them their pagan cult from the Arabian Peninsula. Their main gods were the god Dushara and the goddess Al-Uzza. She was the goddess of fertility, the patroness of caravans and the embodiment of the morning star, and he, whose name literally translated as “from Sharra,” was named after the Sharra Mountains in the Petra region. In the Old Testament these mountains are called Seir, and one of the names of Jehovah - “He who was revealed in Seir” (Deuteronomy) - suggests the identity of these gods. The Greeks later likened Aushar to Dionysus. Numerous idols of Dushara and Al-Uzza can be found throughout Petra in the form of stone blocks or obelisks.

Nabataean temperament

Contemporaries characterized the Nabataeans as peace-loving and hardworking people. In the classical works of Strabo, a historian of the 1st century. BC e., peaceful, diligent people are described, whose cities are not surrounded by walls. If they were attacked, they preferred tactical rather than military solutions, bribing the aggressors with valuable gifts.

This tactic was successful with the Greeks and Romans, and the Nabateans managed to remain largely independent throughout the region's turbulent history. When the last Nabatean king died in 106, Petra became part of the Roman province of Arabia and became its capital.

Under the Romans and after them

The Romans entered the city and rebuilt it, laying a main street, building a colonnade along it, erecting temples and baths. Starting from the 2nd century. BC e. Petra's "powers" as a city lying at the intersection of the main caravan routes passed to Roman Palmyra, as the caravan routes changed direction and extended further to the north. Accordingly, wealth stopped flowing here. Christianity reigned here early, as a result of which by the 4th century. n. e. Petra already had its own bishop, and one of the Nabatean tombs was turned into a church.

The population declined over the next few centuries; Until the 12th century, when the crusaders stopped here for a short time, nothing was heard about Peter at all. The Crusaders built two castles here. Until the 19th century the city was forgotten and was perceived by educated Europeans as a mythical city of fabulous wealth, something like Atlantis. It was “discovered” in 1812 by the young Anglo-Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt (1784-1817) , who, pretending to be a Muslim, entered the city under the pretext of making a sacrifice to Aaron. And so it happened that Burckhardt became the first European to see the façade of the Treasury after six centuries.