Georgia. Journey to Adjara

27.09.2021
Gonio and Sarpi: one-day outing from Batumi What neighborhoods to see while relaxing in Batumi? Of course, if this is the summer season, and your obedient servant rested in the capital of Adjara exactly at its height - in August, the best option would be to combine an educational walk with a serene vacation on the seashore. Fortunately, there are enough such corners in these places. But perhaps the most popular route extends from Batumi towards the border with Turkey, namely, to the villages of Gonio and Sarpi. So, let's hit the road. On Tbilisi Square, Batumi, we are looking for the minibus we need (on the windshield it should be written "Gonio", "Sarpi" or "Kvariati"; if the inscriptions are only in Georgian, do not despair, ask people or drivers clustered near stops, they will tell you, in which one to take), or bus number 16, we pay the driver 80 tetri (you can pay at the exit, 80 tetri are Georgian "penny") and - let's go! Who doesn't want to wait public transport, although minibuses "run" towards Turkey at intervals of about once every half an hour, you can use a taxi. For 10 GEL they will deliver to the Gonio fortress. Yes, and we will make the first stop there, and it is the closest to the city along the described route. The travel time from the center of Batumi to the Gonio fortress is 15 minutes. The drive is only some 10 kilometers. Well, here we are, let's go. The stop is just opposite the entrance to the fortress, crossed the highway and .... welcome to the depths of centuries:

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View of the Gonio fortress from the bus stop

The cost of an entrance ticket for an adult is 3 lari (at the current exchange rate, this corresponds to only 1.02 euros). You can, of course, pay extra for the tour, but I did not do this. I like to wander on my own and enjoy what I see, but there is something to see here.


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Fortress of Gonio Apsaros

The fortress of Gonio-Apsaros dates back to 77 AD, was built by the ancient Romans, and these places were inhabited much earlier. Why does the fortress have such a double name "Gonio-Apsaros"? But because at one time the famous Argonauts, led by Jason, who killed the son of King Eeta - Apsyrtus, fairly "hung out" here, and the father of his son buried it in this fortress. The Georgian name Gonio appeared much later... Many plots of myths about the Argonauts unfolded here, in the cradle of ancient Ayia-Colchis...


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At the fortress walls and towers

Until the end of the 3rd century AD, the fortress of Gonio-Apsaros performed an important strategic function of protecting the borders of the Eastern Roman Empire... There were cohorts here, there was a hippodrome, there was even a theater. And, of course, Roman baths were erected, the remains of which can still be seen today...


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Remains of ancient Roman baths


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So that's what you are, Roman baths!

On the Roman baths you can climb, make interesting photo shoots. It’s just that you won’t be able to wash yourself in Roman style, a lot of water has flowed under the bridge since then ... in the literal and figurative sense of the word


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You can also see the ancient well, I looked into it - dry and empty And quite deep ...


Well, well, let me drink water! - Does not give((

The entire territory of the fortress can be surveyed from the height of its walls - there are ladders, but natural, and not specially designed for tourists, so you will have to walk directly along the historical footprints ...) So wear comfortable shoes, here I am, being shod in slates (i.e. k. further followed to the beaches), did not dare to repeat the exploits of other, more prudent visitors ...


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After the fall of the Roman Empire, the fortress was chosen by the Byzantines, in the middle of the 16th century, and specifically in 1547, the soldiers of the Ottoman Empire came here, organized their military garrison here, and stayed here for more than 330 long years ... until 1878.


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Window to the sky

Time did not spare the fortress of Gonio, but those ruins that remained became a good reason to study it. rich history, for archaeological excavations... Excavations began in the 60s of the last century, the archaeologist managed to find many interesting artifacts and even... real treasures. Yes, yes, in 1974 a golden treasure was found on the territory of the fortress, namely - Jewelry II-III centuries!


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Fortress ruins

You can easily walk around the fortress around the perimeter with a leisurely step (without climbing walls 5 to 7 meters high) in half an hour. If you do not deviate from the route and do not inspect other buildings located inside ... Fortunately, the length of the fortress is only 222 meters.


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Promenade along the fortress walls

By the way, in Gonio-Anapsaros, not only the fortress ruins and preserved objects are impressive, but also the lush subtropical vegetation. sort of Botanical Garden in miniature, starting right at the entrance to the fortress: diving under the arches of kiwi thickets, which protect so well from the bright rays of the sun...


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Entrance shady alley

So this is how you grow - kiwi! Almost ripe...


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Kiwi is never too much

If the kiwi is still firmly held on the branches, then the persimmon, although still green, unripe, is already falling ... Be careful: do not fall under the "hurmapad" and do not slip on the persimmon!


green persimmon


persimmon not yet ripe


"Carrion")

What else interesting can be seen in the fortress of Gonio? View some of the found archaeological finds, including ancient amphoras, tools. All this is collected in a separate covered pavilion. It is a pity that the ancient Roman jewelry discovered 43 years ago cannot be seen.


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Indoor pavilion of finds

And here is the symbolic grave of one of the 12 apostles - Matthew. According to one of the existing historical versions, it was in Gonio that he was executed for his sermons. However, the Italians think differently and arranged his grave in the campaign town of Salerno...


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Tomb of the Apostle Matthew


Your stay in the Gonio Fortress will not take you long. Even if you study in detail this museum and archaeological complex, equipped and equipped for tourists in 1994, two to two and a half hours is more than enough. Therefore, we cast a farewell glance at the powerful walls ...


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And, not forgetting to leave their traces in the history of the fortress...


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And a photo for memory?

We leave this corner of history and marvelous nature and rush to the "bluest in the world" Black Sea, namely, to the center of the village of Gonio, to the beach ... From the fortress to the beach, the same passing minibus or bus will take you, or on any ride ( vote, they will give you a ride, it’s a 3-minute drive there, they didn’t even take money from me).


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Beach in Gonio

Here we are at the beach. Not as crowded as Batumi, but it is understandable - the village is small. And the storm did not contribute to the influx of tourists. The beaches in Gonio are equipped with everything you need - sunbeds, umbrellas, toilets, changing rooms, beach cafes where you can have a snack and even a hearty lunch.


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The sea was stormy

As on the entire Batumi coast, the beach is large-pebbled, and without special shoes it is problematic to enter the rough sea (and most importantly, get out of it, being sure that you will not be knocked down by a wave). I was pleased that almost in front of each passage to the sea, for convenience, wooden flooring-"paths" were equipped. I paid 3 lari for a sunbed - sit by the sea, there is a lot of space, enjoy! I didn’t swim - I limited myself to passive rest ... Following the example of these cows resting on green lawns


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Cows also want to sunbathe


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I noticed that on all the sunbeds, changing cabins - both in Gonio and Batumi - there are only advertisements for famous mineral waters Georgia. "Nabeglavi", "Likani", "Bakuriani" and, of course, the famous "Borjomi" ... for every taste, as they say!


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After resting on the beach in Gonio, we go further - to the very border with Turkey, to the border village of Sarpi. 5 minutes on a ride (free of charge again!), and we are there. And the mountains in the photo are no longer Georgian, but Turkish mountains ... And Sarpi beach is considered the cleanest, with the cleanest water, and locals, as well as the Turks on the other hand, prefer to relax and swim here.


In the very south-west of Georgia is the Adjara region - the warmest and most humid of all Georgian regions. Main city this region - Batumi. But we will go to look at the mountainous part of Adjara, see and listen to the Makhuntseti waterfall and look into the Gonio fortress.

Batumi was left behind, flat urban landscapes were replaced by the following:

* the next picture and some others in the upper right corner are marked with . This means that under such a picture there is another one hidden - similar or from a different angle. To display the second snapshot, click on the first snapshot, to return the first, click on the second.


many of which were taken simply from the window of our taxi rushing along the serpentine:


On the left side of our path, a mountain hangs, on the right side, the Adzharistskali River flows, which in translation into Russian means "Adzharian water." We pass the village of the same name:

In some places, the river became much shallower, the color of the water also changed to sandy - the river carries a lot of sand from the mountains:

The quality of the mountain road here is excellent - new asphalt, everywhere there are markings, chippers:

So we arrived at the Makhuntseti waterfall.


The height of the waterfall is a little over twenty meters. The midday sun, reflected in wet stones and a cloud of spray from the first cascade, completely illuminated the upper part of the waterfall :(.
At the time of our arrival, the waterfall was not in its best shape - after all, the rivers become shallow in August, and the strength of the waterfall was not the same as in late spring. Nevertheless, it was a bewitching sight that I wanted to look at endlessly:

I barely found the only picture where the waterfall entered in its entirety - from the beginning of the first cascade to the drain bowl:

Having poured out, the waterfall turns into such a small river that you can jump over with a run (and in the spring there is a stormy stream):

We looked at Makhuntseti, admired it, but it's time to get into our taxi and move on. By the way, many thanks to the taxi driver Alik for helping us realize this trip and taking us safe and sound.

On the slopes of the mountains you can see the houses of local residents:


The same houses on zoom:

Here's where to live! But ... of course, the Internet is required. And a must-have SUV. :)

Entrance to the mountain village. Cows in Georgia are found almost everywhere, they graze where it is convenient for them and walk by themselves:


On such stone stairs mountain dwellers climb to their homes:


Oh, to live here and enjoy the cleanest air and the ringing silence of the mountains:

It's good to dream a little, but it's time to go back. We cross the Chorokhi River over the bridge and head for the Gonio fortress.

Fifteen kilometers from Batumi there is a small fortress.

Little historical background.
The Gonio fortress (formerly called Apsare) was a Roman outpost in Adjara, on the Black Sea, 15 km south of Batumi, at the mouth of the Chorokhi River. The village is located 4 km north of the Turkish border.

The first mention of the fortress belongs to Pliny the Younger (I century AD). In the 2nd century AD, it was a well-fortified Roman city in Colchis. Later fell under the influence of Byzantium. The name "Gonio" was first mentioned in a report by the Trebizond historian Michael Panaret in the 14th century. For some time there was a place of Genoese trade. In 1547, Gonio became part of the Ottoman Empire, this continued until 1878, when, after the Treaty of San Stefano, Adjara became part of the Russian Empire.

Main alley:

Kiwis grow in the fortress above the main alley:

Ruins of ancient settlements:

Excavations are underway in many places inside the fortress:


The remains of the water supply of those ancient times:

Not far from Batumi, the Gonio fortress was built, which is rightfully one of the oldest and largest structures of its kind. The citadel has a large number of still unsolved legends and myths that it has acquired over the centuries. It is this veil of mystery that attracts tourists from all over the world to the citadel until now. This place is not like the castles of Ananuri or Petra, it has its own merits.

The fortress of Gonio is also famous for the fact that an unusual grave is located on its territory. According to the legends, Matthew, who is one of the 12 apostles, is buried there. There is a hypothesis that he came here after the death of the teacher and began to preach. There is no confirmation of this hypothesis, and digging nearby is prohibited by the Georgian government. Therefore, it is impossible to verify the veracity of these words, as well as to refute them.

Tourists will like Gonio Apsaros fortress, which during its existence passed from one owner to another. As a result, its architecture combines the most diverse elements of both the Muslim and Christian faiths.

The appearance of the surrounding territories has hardly changed over the past two thousand years, and the Gonio Apsaros fortress itself has not stood the test of time, as well as its extensions. Now you can see only the remains of the Gonio Georgia fortress, which keep a huge number of secrets.

Along the perimeter of the Gonio-Apsaros fortress, battlements five meters high were built, which are still perfectly preserved - there are no gaps and obvious violations of the structure. Also, the fortress was supposed to have 22 watchtowers, each of which was seven meters long, but only 18 of them survived. Excavations were carried out along the entire perimeter of the fortress, and it was here that the treasures of Gonio were found, which are now stored in the Batumi Museum.

Useful information about the fortress

It is worth knowing that the desire to visit the fortress and the museum dedicated to the excavations in this place can be fulfilled not around the clock. Access to the fortress is open on any day except Monday, when the gates are closed. On any other day, you can get here from ten in the morning until six in the evening. The ticket price is 3 GEL, which is a very affordable price.

For those who want to learn more new information, it is worth ordering an audio guide, which will cost 5 GEL and tell a lot of facts for two tourists. For a large and noisy company, you should order a live guide. In this case, the price will be slightly higher - 10 GEL per tour. But a live guide will be able to tell everything that is recorded on the audio CD, show important and interesting points, answer all questions of interest, and for a large company it will be an invaluable asset.

Going on an excursion or a regular tour of the fortress, it is worth preparing from half an hour to an hour of time so that you can explore this picturesque and historical place without fuss and without haste. significant place. It is advisable to wear comfortable shoes, because you will definitely want to climb the fortress walls and take a closer look at many small details. Wandering around the remains of the fortress in heels or in white shoes will not be practical and not comfortable for the feet.


It is worth taking a camera with you - in this place you can take pictures, and there are enough picturesque views. Many tourists will also be interested in the museum, which is adjacent to the fortress. All specimens of various things found during excavations are exhibited there - from gold jewelry to the skull of a local resident.

Where to live in Gonio

You can get to Gonio from Batumi in twenty minutes, because the distance to this village is only 15 kilometers and most buses and minibuses go through it. It will also be very easy to get there by private car if you have a navigator. You will have to pay for a taxi from 10 GEL to infinity. Many tours pass through this place too.

You need to be careful if you have to order a taxi from the airport to Batumi or directly to Gonio - taxi drivers often charge up to several tens of dollars for the road, which will amount to several lari on public transport.


About the rest in Gonio, reviews say that it is easy to find a place to stay there. Here you can book guest houses, hotel rooms both in the mountains and near the water. Private sector also offers a wide range of places for recreation and accommodation. It is worth choosing places to stay in advance, because Gonio is loved not only by tourists, but also by locals, so it may turn out that there are no places to stay.
Holidays in Gonio Georgia are distinguished, according to tourists, by mountain air, silence and warm sea. The cost of rented housing here is not high and will suit many. It is possible to rent both simple rooms for an overnight stay, and rooms with full three meals a day from colorful Georgian cuisine. In most cases, the choice is up to the guest. Life in Georgia Gonio has reviews and recommendations of the highest level.

Hotel map

Sunny beach and village

The beach in Gonio deserves special words of praise. It's clean, quiet and comfortable. Many people who rested in the Georgian village of Gonio were very satisfied with their journey and vacation. People who want peace and tranquility stay here. Youth and those who love bright life among shops and entertainment, they usually stop in Batumi.

The network has a lot of photos of Georgia Gonio and photos of the beach. The water in this area is cleaner, because the fortress is higher than the place where the Chorokhi River flows into the sea. There are usually not very many people here on the beach, so no one interferes with each other.

On any photo that is on the Internet, you can see how clean it is. If you wish, you can easily go on fun adventures in Batumi, and in the evening return to quiet and cozy Gonio, where there are no disturbing lights and city noise.

Gonio is perfect for tourists who appreciate:

  1. Georgian selection of dishes and national cuisine;
  2. Hospitality of the locals;
  3. Primordial nature;
  4. Healing properties of air and water.

The beach in gonio is always clean, partly because there are not many people here, partly because of the large pebbles that cover the beach. For those who find it painful to lie on the rocks, you can rent a plastic sunbed for 2 GEL per day. And if you really want to hide in the shade - you should rent an umbrella, the cost of renting it will be 3 GEL per day. Numerous cabanas create pleasant conditions for being on the shore. And there is practically no queue, which pleases any visitor and tourist.

The Georgian Village is perfect for tourists with children who definitely need to follow the daily routine. In this place, in cafes and restaurants, it is customary to start preparing a dish only after an order has been placed, so sometimes you have to wait longer than usual. But people who have rested in gonio note the special taste of most dishes precisely because of their freshness at any time of the year.


The only thing missing on the beach is natural shade - there are practically no trees here. But rented umbrellas or a visit to numerous cafes on the shore perfectly save from this flaw. IN last years georgia actively develops tourism, contributes to the appearance of new and interesting tours for visiting people, invests money in the development of a tourist destination. Therefore, throughout the territory of georgia and specifically in Gonio, new cafes and restaurants are actively opening, hotels of various sizes are being built.

Most of the beach is equipped, and the division into private beaches and general use is very conditional, there are no nets, limiters, prohibition signs and other elements. Therefore, you can be located anywhere on the beach, wherever you want. It is not customary for hospitable Georgians to show aggression towards tourists and guests of the area.

coastal boulevard

Another remarkable feature of Gonio is the coastal boulevard, which vaguely resembles the same boulevard in Batumi. It does not look as majestic as in the capital, but this does not prevent tourists from walking along it. The population of hotels, which are often built on the coast or nearby, often go to this particular boulevard to take a walk along the sea.

This is a significant plus compared to the similar villages of Kvariati and Sarpi. These populated villages cannot boast such a walking area. In order to walk along the sea, you will have to move along large pebbles, which is not always convenient. In Gonio, you can not only walk, but also ride a rented transport - a bicycle, a scooter, a scooter or a skateboard, which allows you to combine business with pleasure. There are a lot of rental points on the territory of this boulevard.


If you move north towards Batumi, then after the end of the boulevard you can stumble upon a small lake, which does not smell very pleasant. There is also a parking lot populated by truckers. At any time of the year, someone lives there and rests between distant roads. It is better not to try to leave with these Georgians, as most often they do not take fellow travelers.

Beach activities

In addition to the boulevard, cafes and the fortress itself, the village of Gonio presents a variety of water activities. These are catamarans, and water skiing, which the locals invite to ride, and jet skis. The choice is large. You can build castles out of stones.

In several places, a beach volleyball net is stretched, and the company usually gathers quickly from those who want to play. For those who come here with children, there are several trampolines where you can jump. Some of them are located right next to the beach net so that parents can keep the kids entertained and play some games.

It's worth visiting this place. Someone will come and leave it after visiting the fortress, wanting to plunge into the entertainment world of Batumi as soon as possible. But many will want to stay, because the sea here is warm and clean, much cleaner than in Batumi. It's quiet and calm here, no a large number vacationers who interfere with enjoying the sea or peaceful streets. There are cafes and restaurants here, many are located by the sea, while the prices are not high. It's worth a look here.

To the south of Batumi, at a distance of 12 km, on the left bank of the Chorokhi River, near the border with Turkey, there is the Gonio-Apsaros fortress, which is a plot of 4.5 hectares. It is a real paradise for lovers of historical and cultural antiquity. The architectural masonry of the fortress stands out. The total length of its walls is 900 meters, the height of the walls is 5 m, the height of the towers is 7 m. Today, the Gonian fortress has 18 towers, but initially there were 22. The four main towers were located in the corners of the fortress fence.

Previously, the fortress had 4 entrances, but only the western gate has survived. The Gonian fortress was of unique strategic importance: it protected the entrances to the gorges of the Chorokhi and Acharistskali rivers, which connected the interior of southwestern Georgia with Black Sea coast. Thanks to this location, the Gonian fortress turned into a supporting Black Sea citadel of the Roman Empire, and later of Byzantium. The bronze culture of Colchis was born in this region, the first Georgian state associations arose here.

According to Roman-Byzantine written evidence, around the same time, Apsaros arose, the place on which the fortress was built, as a settlement. His name is closely related to the Myth of the Argonauts. According to legend, it was here that King Ayet buried the body of his son, Apsyrtus, dismembered by Jason. An interested traveler will learn here that today the oldest archaeological layer has been excavated here, which dates back to XV-XVII BC. e. Burials dating back to the 5th century AD were found behind the southern wall of the fortress. e.

The revival of urban life here has been observed since the Hellenistic era. According to many historians of that time, the Gonian fortress was a strategic, political, economic and cultural center eastern border Rome. In the I-III centuries. n. e. a theater and a hippodrome functioned here. One of the apostles of Christ, Matata, is buried in Apsaros. Archaeological excavations of the Gonio-Apsaros fortress have been carried out since the 60s of the twentieth century. In 1974, on the territory adjacent to the fortress, a treasure dated to the 2nd-3rd centuries was accidentally discovered. in n. e. Since 1994, continuous scientific work has been carried out here. The Gonian fortress has been declared a museum-reserve.

The Gonian fortress was of unique strategic importance: it reliably protected all the entrances to the gorges of the Acharistskali and Chorokhi rivers, which connected the interior of southwestern Georgia with the Black Sea coast. It is thanks to the stunning location that the fortress turned into a powerful supporting Black Sea citadel, first of the Roman Empire, and much later of Byzantium. Local and foreign archaeologists have done a great job here, excavated the oldest unique archaeological layer dating back to XV-XVII BC. e. Behind the strong southern wall of the fortress, amazing burials were found dating back to the 5th century AD. e.

A real revival of vibrant urban life has been observed here since the Hellenistic era. According to many historians of that time, the Gonian fortress was considered the most strategic, economic, political and cultural center of the entire eastern border of Rome. Here in the I-III centuries. n. e. the hippodrome and theater functioned successfully. Permanent archaeological excavations conducted in this place since the 60s of the twentieth century. In 1974, a treasure was discovered by accident near the fortress, dated to the 2nd-3rd centuries AD. e.

The Gonian fortress was declared a museum-reserve in 1994, and since then, continuous and fruitful scientific work has been carried out here. Looking at the dilapidated buildings, one can still freely understand that once there were real Roman baths here. In the 6th century, the Byzantines came to Apsar, and in the 17th century, as is known from history, Adjara was conquered by the Ottoman Empire, Turkish troops stood in the fortress for a very long time, and the stunning baths were rebuilt into eastern baths. And yet, significant signs of Roman civilization are still preserved throughout the fortress.

For example, the original sewer pipes laid out by the Romans in the 2nd century, amazing stone tees for the necessary pipe routing, powerful foundations of the barracks and the wonderful building of the praetorium. Surprisingly, even huge stone pedestals remained from the latter. Do not be surprised, this is the tomb of the Apostle Matthew. Tradition says that the apostle came here after the death of his teacher, and it was here, in the fortress, that he preached the teachings of Christ for a long time, and died here. Directly opposite the cross is the well-preserved building of the mosque of the Turkish garrison.

In the fortress, the stones seem to come to life and whisper about what they had to see for so many centuries. If you are in Gonio, by all means look into this fortress - you forget about the modern fuss there.

The uniqueness of the city of Batumi also lies in the fact that it was built according to the Roman layout. It is clearly divided into squares by parallel streets, which greatly facilitates orientation in the city. And since the numbering of all streets starts from the sea, it is impossible to get lost in this city.

Adjara, like the whole of Georgia, has a complex and diverse past. As a historical and geographical unit, it has been known since ancient times. According to scientists, this area has been inhabited since the Stone Age. Monuments of this time were found around mountain resort Beshumi. Well, the Chorokhi River basin was one of the main centers of bronze metallurgy. Accordingly, in the territory of Adjara, there are often monuments of the Bronze and Early Iron periods.

In the Georgian chronicle, Adjara was first mentioned in the 3rd century. BC e. as part of the Kingdom of Kartli. Adjara is the cradle of Christianity in Georgia. This historical phenomenon of great significance is associated with the name of the Apostle of Christ - Andrew the First-Called, who came to Adjara with the word of God. From the 1st century n. e. Also connected is the Gonio-Apsaros fortress, which is located near the city of Batumi in Gonio. It is called the grandiose Colchis citadel, which to this day is a vivid heritage of the glorious history of Adjara and the subject of archaeological research. In addition, it was on the territory of the Gonian fortress that the most important shrine of Christianity was discovered - the tomb of the apostle Matata. As you know, this apostle was accepted into the ranks of the twelve elect instead of Judas Iscariot. Historical sources report that in the last years of his life he lived in Adjara and was buried right there.

In the Middle Ages, architecture, literature, book correspondence, wood and leather processing were well developed in Adjara. In the 17th century Adjara was conquered by the Ottoman Empire. In 1609, she freed herself and joined the Gurian principality. But in 1614 she again fell into the hands of the Ottomans and until 1878 groaned under their yoke. Throughout the time, little Adjara did not submit to the huge Ottoman Empire. The inhabitants of this corner raised uprisings, secretly followed the Christian religion, passed down Georgian and Orthodox traditions from generation to generation, and defended their native language. In 1878, as a result of the Russian-Turkish war, Adjara was returned to Georgia. From the end of the 19th century a new stage in the history of Adjara began. The corner took the path of economic and social revival. After the establishment of Soviet power in Georgia, in 1921, Adzharia was declared an autonomous republic. This status has been retained by her to this day.

Gonio is the most old fortress in Georgia, preserved 12 km from Batumi, in the village of Gonio, near the border with Turkey. The fortress was built in the 1st-2nd centuries and functioned as a citadel of the Roman, and later the Byzantine Empire. The total length of the walls of the fortress is 900 meters, the height of the walls is 5 m, the height of 18 of its towers is 7 m. Although the current appearance of the fortress is a restructuring and restoration in the 16th century by the Turks. This explains the excellent preservation of the walls of the fortress.

The Gonian fortress was of unique strategic importance: it reliably protected all the entrances to the gorges of the Acharistskali and Chorokhi rivers, which connected the interior of southwestern Georgia with the Black Sea coast. It was thanks to the stunning location that the fortress turned into a powerful supporting Black Sea citadel, first of the Roman Empire, and much later of Byzantium.

The well-known bronze culture of Colchis originated in this region, the very first Georgian state associations really arose here. According to the Roman-Byzantine written evidence, the fabulous Apsaros arose approximately at the same time, as locality- the place where the fortress was built. His name is extremely closely connected with the famous Myth of the Argonauts. According to the existing legend, King Ayet buried the body of his son Apsyrtus, dismembered by Jason, in this place.

Local and foreign archaeologists have done a great job here, excavated the oldest unique archaeological layer dating back to XV-XVII BC. e. Behind the strong southern wall of the fortress, amazing burials were found dating back to the 5th century AD. e. A real revival of vibrant urban life has been observed here since the Hellenistic era.

According to many historians of that time, the Gonian fortress was considered the most strategic, economic, political and cultural center of the entire eastern border of Rome. Here in the I-III centuries. n. e. the hippodrome and theater functioned successfully. Permanent archaeological excavations have been carried out in this place since the 60s of the twentieth century.

In 1974, a treasure was discovered by accident near the fortress, dated to the 2nd-3rd centuries AD. e. The Gonian fortress was declared a museum-reserve in 1994, and since then, continuous and fruitful scientific work has been carried out here. Looking at the dilapidated buildings, one can still freely understand that once there were real Roman baths here. In the 6th century, the Byzantines came to Apsar, and in the 17th century, as is known from history, Adjara was conquered by the Ottoman Empire, Turkish troops stood in the fortress for a very long time, and the stunning baths were rebuilt into eastern baths.

Apsaros fortress plan. A picture from space.

And yet, significant signs of Roman civilization are still preserved throughout the fortress. For example, the original sewer pipes laid out by the Romans in the 2nd century, amazing stone tees for the necessary pipe routing, powerful foundations of the barracks and the wonderful building of the praetorium. Surprisingly, even huge stone pedestals remained from the latter. Do not be surprised, this is the tomb of the Apostle Matthew. Tradition says that the apostle came here after the death of his teacher, and it was here, in the fortress, that he preached the teachings of Christ for a long time, and died here. Directly opposite the cross is the well-preserved building of the mosque of the Turkish garrison. Recently, there have been a lot of tourists here, and it has become a tradition that on the wedding day, the newlyweds certainly visit the fortress and take pictures against the backdrop of the historical ruins of this picturesque place.

Region. And yet, there is one unique place , which stores the memory of centuries of history. A place open to tourists culture and grandeur past generations bravely defending their territory.

If you are going to climb the walls of the fortress, it is recommended to put on shoes and dress comfortably.

To him organize excursions, travel on their own by bus or car, walk along its walls and simply take photos and videos. The name of this place is Gonio fortress. Said citadel is, among other things, the oldest building of this kind throughout.

The history of the fortress is rooted in the distant past namely, in the 1st century AD. In the 2nd century, the territory was one of the Roman cities Colchis. A little later, he moved to Byzantium. All this time the territory was called Apsare or Asparunt. Only in the XIV century the city began to be called Gonio. In Soviet times, Adjara managed to acquire independence from other states, becoming an autonomy. Until that moment, she managed to visit the Ottoman and Russian empires.

Previously, the fortress of Gonio was important place for the entire Roman Empire. She not only guarded and protected entrances to the river gorge, but was in every sense center Eastern part of Rome.

The fortress is rectangle, fenced high walls(about 5 m). Of the 22 towers that once existed, relatively whole 18 left. You can enter the territory of the citadel through the only surviving entrance located on the side of the road.

There is a strange belief about the name of the fortress, closely connected with the ancient Greek myth. According to him, it was in these places that the son of the Colchis king, Apsyrtus, killed by Jason, was buried. Allegedly, therefore, the fortress bears a double name: Gonio-Apsaros.

Inside the citadel quite spacious. If you expect to see a lot of ancient buildings here, you will be disappointed. The territory is divided into two parts an alley along which there are benches, flowers, shrubs and trees grow. We recommend starting from the right(if you stand with your back to the gate), since mainly ancient ruins of buildings are located on it.

So far inside the citadel excavations are underway. All items found donated to the museum which is located on the territory. Not far from the building, you can see a part of the preserved from ancient times ceramic pipes- once a pipeline and sewerage. The well and the ruins of the baths also located on the right side of the fortress. In ancient times, inside the citadel worked well hippodrome and theater, but to our time, almost nothing except the foundation has been preserved.

At the end of the 20th century, namely in 1974, archaeologists treasure was found, dating back to the 5th century AD, which speaks of rich Roman heritage not yet fully understood by scientists. In 1994, the fortress of Gonio was officially declared museum-reserve.

Unconfirmed but interesting fact

It is believed that on the territory of the fortress of Gonio is the grave of one of the 12 apostles of Jesus Christ - Matthew. Whether this is so is not known for certain, since excavations in this area are officially prohibited. Every tourist can see this burial. It is located literally opposite the ruins of ancient baths. Not so long ago, a small chapel was erected over the burial.

Personally, we were allocated 40 minutes to visit the fortress, at the time, it was clearly few. We managed to see everything we wanted, but at a gallop. Perhaps too much wasted time view of the place from the walls of the citadel, which, by the way, are quite well preserved. Of course, it is not as good as, but nevertheless, the Gonio-Apsaros fortress deserves special attention of tourists(for at least ancient history). We advise you to visit it too.


Here you can take a break and enjoy wonderful views of the fortress through flowers and fruits.

A few tips:

  1. Dress and wear comfortable. If you, like many other tourists, want to climb the walls, it is better to be prepared (not all places have well-preserved ancient masonry).
  2. Be sure to bring a hat with you. There are not many shady places on the territory - only the central alley and the museum.
  3. Choose for a trip the first or second half of the day when the sun is less "aggressive".
  4. Take water with you. Inside and nearby, we did not notice any shops or stalls.
  5. If you plan to swim and sunbathe on the beaches of the village of Gonio, take your swimming accessories with you.

Schedule and prices

You can enter the territory of the fortress any day. Sometimes the sites come across information about supposedly a day off on Monday. Perhaps this was once the case. Now, the citadel is open from 10:00 to 18:00. Coincidentally, we personally visited Gonio exactly on Monday.

Adult ticket costs 3 lari GEORGIAN LAR RATE:
3 lari = 0.99 euros;
3 lari = 1.14 dollars;
3 lari = 75.66 rubles;
3 lari = 31.92 hryvnia;
3 lari = 2.55 Belarusian rubles.
, cheaper for children - 1 lari GEORGIAN LAR RATE:
1 lari = 0.33 euros;
1 lari = 0.38 dollars;
1 lari = 25.22 rubles;
1 lari = 10.64 hryvnia;
1 lari = 0.85 Belarusian rubles.
Rates and prices may not be accurate.. If you are interested in details learn about the history of the fortress and finds, take audio guide behind 5 lari GEORGIAN LAR RATE:
5 lari = 1.66 euros;
5 lari = 1.9 dollars;
5 lari = 126.1 rubles;
5 lari = 53.2 hryvnia;
5 lari = 4.25 Belarusian rubles.
Rates and prices may not be accurate.. True, he calculated only for two. With a large company it is better to order live guide behind 10 lari GEORGIAN LAR RATE:
10 lari = 3.31 euros;
10 lari = 3.8 dollars;
10 lari = 252.2 rubles;
10 lari = 106.4 hryvnia;

Rates and prices may not be accurate. per group.

We decided to manage on our own and walked around the fortress without a guide. It turned out to be no less interesting and exciting. Moreover, the main part of the ancient ruins presented on the territory signed in three languages: Georgian, English and Russian.

Map with detailed route from Batumi

For independent tourists, we attach a map below with detailed itinerary. We indicated on it path, according to which we went ourselves(by bus during the tour). All possible options get to the fortress will be indicated in the article.

We would advise set aside a whole day and see, in addition to the fortress, other sights of Adjara in the most economical way - on excursion covered bus. The cost of a 7 hour trip will cost you only 25 lari GEORGIAN LAR RATE:
25 lari = 8.28 euros;
25 lari = 9.5 dollars;
25 lari = 630.5 rubles;
25 lari = 266 hryvnia;
25 lari = 21.25 Belarusian rubles.
Rates and prices may not be accurate..

be careful and don't be fooled by the options for excursions with payment in dollars. They are usually much worse in terms of service(the allotted time given vehicle etc.) and several times expensive.

How to get to the Gonio Fortress by public transport:

  • Most cheap option- on bus number 16 or at minibus(if you see the inscription Gonio, Kvariati or Sarpi on the windshield) for 80 tetri GEORGIAN LAR RATE:
    0.8 lari = 0.26 euros;
    0.8 lari = 0.3 dollars;
    0.8 lari = 20.18 rubles;
    0.8 lari = 8.51 hryvnia;
    0.8 lari = 0.68 Belarusian rubles.
    Rates and prices may not be accurate.. They drive from Tbilisi Square, passing along Chavchavadze and Tbel-Abuseridze streets along the way. On the map, this route comes second. Signed as "The route of the bus and minibuses to the fortress of Gonio." The trip takes approximately 20 minutes.
  • You can also get to the Gonio fortress by Taxi. This is a rather expensive option, which we do not recommend.One-way travel can cost from 10 lari GEORGIAN LAR RATE:
    10 lari = 3.31 euros;
    10 lari = 3.8 dollars;
    10 lari = 252.2 rubles;
    10 lari = 106.4 hryvnia;
    10 lari = 8.5 Belarusian rubles.
    Rates and prices may not be accurate.(and sometimes all 20 lari GEORGIAN LAR RATE:
    20 lari = 6.62 euros;
    20 lari = 7.6 dollars;
    20 lari = 504.4 rubles;
    20 lari = 212.8 hryvnia;
    20 lari = 17 Belarusian rubles.
    Rates and prices may not be accurate.).

TO convenient ways we will also take trips on our own or. In front of the fortress there is a parking lot where you can safely leave your car.

Well, the last, slightly extravagant option is to ride a rented bike. True, you are unlikely to be allowed inside with him.

Photo: the most beautiful corners of the fortress

We have collected a small collection of photographs while walking around the territory of the fortress. We are happy to share this collection with you.