To the ferry that was supposed to take us to the island of Senja. We planned to take a quick ride there. north coast visiting two equipped viewing platforms along the way. There was also an optional program: subject to good weather, climb one of the most high mountains islands - Cape. And finally - a mere trifle: it was necessary to drive 450 kilometers to the cottage booked in Finland. Well, it's simple, right?

And from the very morning everything went awry. When I woke up and looked at the clock, the first fact became obvious: we had hopelessly overslept. While we were having breakfast and checking out from the hotel, the second fact was added to the first fact - the Norwegian weather decided to once again show us its capricious temper, and instead of the “blue cloudless sky” performance promised by weather forecasters, it launched its own project - “hopeless gray clouds”.

There were 50 minutes to the ferry and exactly the same number of kilometers along a narrow winding road winding along the coast. The next ferry was supposed to leave only after an hour and a half, which did not suit us at all.

The sleepy silence of the Norwegian villages was broken only by the roar of a gasoline engine. A silvery Mazda with Russian numbers, impudently violating all conceivable rules, flew along the smooth asphalt along the coast of the fjord, indented with bays. If the police meet her on the way, and a fine of ten thousand Norwegian kroner is provided to the driver. And in addition to it, there is also a moratorium on obtaining a Schengen visa for five years. But that morning, the Norse gods were clearly on our side: when the ferry gave a long whistle and began to move away from the shore, we were already climbing the stairs leading from the car deck to the stuffy salon. Forty-five minutes passed and the silver Mazda, as if nothing had happened, observing the rules, slowly drove along the road along the northern coast of the island of Senja.

Our first stop is the fishing village of Husøy (in Norwegian - Husøy), located on a small island in the middle of a picturesque fjord. They say that the winds here in winter are so strong that sometimes roofs of houses are torn off. The village is quite small, the population is about 250 people.

Once upon a time, several Spanish ships were wrecked in these parts, since then some of the villagers are suspiciously similar to the Spaniards. Moreover, a siesta has been observed in the village for several centuries - regardless of the time of year, the entire local population goes to rest together in the afternoon.

While members of my crew are studying the assortment of a local store, trying to find a gas station - in the morning, hurrying to the ferry, I completely forgot that there was almost no gasoline left. Having passed the circle of honor through the village, I find anything, but not a gas station. There is a kindergarten, there is a school, there is a restaurant, there are no gas stations.

Next stop is a small parking lot at the foot of big mountain. Two routes start from here - to the mountains of Keipen and Barden. We want to conquer the Cape. Its height is 938 meters above sea level.

The weather is not conducive to walks in the mountains, but the weather forecasters promised us good weather. You look while we climb up, and the sun will come out.

We stubbornly climb through the swamp to the saddle, in the hope that the weather will change for the better, opening the mountain to us.

Here the route forks. To the left - the path to Barden, to the right - to Keipen.

Clouds hang right overhead. We think what to do next.

Suddenly, the Norwegian sky decides to simplify our choice - it begins to pour rain. To continue climbing in such weather is madness. We go back down.

Along the way we admire the local flora.

At the same time, we also support her.

Having changed clothes and warmed up in the car, we go in search of gasoline - the threat of being left without fuel in the middle of a deserted Norwegian island is becoming more and more real. To solve this problem, you have to make an additional detour of almost a hundred kilometers. Finally, the car is filled to capacity - you can continue the journey.

We return back to the north coast. The Senja National Tourist Route is located here.

Suddenly, the clouds break, and warm sunlight begins to stream along the opposite shore of the fjord.

In less than ten minutes we arrive at the Tungeneset viewpoint (Tungeneset in Norwegian). This is one of two equipped viewing platforms on the island.

The weather is changing dramatically by this time.

The observation deck is a small parking lot and a short wooden path leading to the coast of the fjord.

There are two natural attractions here.

The first is stone baths, partially filled with water.

They say that in good weather tourists like to swim in them. In those twenty minutes, while the weather on Seigna that day was good, we not only did not see those who wanted to swim, we did not meet a soul at all.

The second attraction is a pointed mountain range nestled on the opposite bank of the fjord.

For some reason, they like to call it "Dragon's Teeth", although, in fact, this rock mass has official name- Okshornan (in Norwegian - Okshornan), which translates as "Bull Horns". Although, to be honest, these rocks, after all, are more like dragon's teeth than bull's horns.

The return trip is always long. Our return home from Northern Norway was no exception. Having left Senya, we, instead of calmly going back by a short road, for some reason went to look. By the time we got back, night had fallen. We only got there in the morning. The day that followed was devoted to rest. Someone leisurely walked around the immediate neighborhood, someone was sleeping. The evening was marked by a festive dinner in honor of the imminent return home. The night was calm.

The eleventh day of our expedition arrived. Saying goodbye to the owners of the cottage, we went on. The next evening found us in the Finnish city of Iisalmi, where we had an unexpected experience in the local culture of drinking alcoholic beverages. The morning passed in the fight against a natural hangover. I did not want to get up at all, and only at the cost of incredible efforts, I found the strength to have breakfast, after which the journey home continued. Finally, on the evening of the twelfth day, we solemnly returned to St. Petersburg. Our journey north is over.

And of course we looked at the rock-island of Haya rising on the horizon. They say that it was she who inspired the architect Jan Inge Hovig to build the Arctic Cathedral in Tromsø, about which
I told you last time.

Cloudy skies and light rain did not favor walks on this tiny island, so we decided to go to neighboring island to the ferry pier. However, it cost us
overcome these few kilometers and stand in line for the ferry, as it seemed the blue sky, and gloomy rainy clouds turned into picturesque clouds. Good from our parking lot
Sommaroi island itself was visible, and the bridge to it (by the way, it is so narrow that cars move only in one direction - first there, then back, at the traffic lights), and the Haya rock in the background.

They didn’t return any more, since there were clearly more cars waiting for the ferry than he could take on board. In the same place, in this line there was one amusing meeting. past
we were passed by a man who, seeing the numbers on the car, greeted us in Russian:

Hello from Peter!

We hardly met Russians in northern Norway (there are few Norwegians there either), so we were delighted with our compatriot. We started talking. He asked where I got the information from.
when planning a country itinerary. I said the name of the forum. And suddenly this man extended his hand to me and introduced himself:

And then it dawned on me that this was the same Troll, the guru of the Norway travel forum, with whom I had been consulting for the last few months about the upcoming trip and route.
We knew each other in absentia, and so unexpectedly met in person in the very country we were discussing!

Soon our ferry appeared - the first of fifteen (!) On our way.

We boarded it and set sail.

Haya sail rock was left behind, Senya was waiting for us ahead.

Senja is one of the largest Norwegian islands. Apart from the distant Svalbard, it is the second largest island. At the same time, for the diversity of natural landscapes, its
sometimes referred to as "Norway in miniature".

Senya greeted us with a bright sun. It was one of the few sunny days on the whole trip, so we took full advantage of it - we often stopped and walked,
enjoying the views.

The mountains on Senja are extraordinary. For example, this one looks like a piece of plasticine, with prints of five fingers grabbing it from above:

Snow glades on the slopes of the mountains do not allow us to forget that we are in the Arctic:

The road constantly dives into tunnels, which often stretch for several kilometers:

And the coastline is indented by fjords that go deep into the island - because of them, on the map, Senja looks like some kind of bizarre coral.

On Senja we found wonderful sandy beaches, as if descended from pictures of tropical islands:

The only difference is that the water temperature, even in the middle of summer, is close to freezing. And the very first step, burning the feet, reminded us that we were not in the Caribbean, but even in the Norwegian Sea.

But it was on this Arctic beach that we understood why the Norwegians are so harsh, and the Vikings from this country at one time caused a rustle throughout Europe. Norwegian children, little peanuts
frolic naked in icy water, getting used to the severity of the North from childhood! This picture impressed us.

Sigurd, impressed by the kids, also decided to go into the water. However, he was not even deep enough to the knee - he walked several meters, stood thoughtfully in the water and retreated to the shore.

It was enough for Natasha to go only up to the ankle:

However, she happily posed, depicting a sultry beach holiday:

The sharp rocks that frame this bay are called the "Devil's Teeth":

This is how it is, this island of Senja - rocks, bays and breathtaking landscapes.

However, it was worthwhile for us, in search of an overnight stay, to drive away from coastline deep into the island - and the landscape instantly changed. Suddenly everything became flat, familiar birches and aspens appeared
and somehow breathed native Central Russian band. It suddenly seemed to me that we suddenly returned to the Leningrad region, and we only dreamed of mountains and seas. Turns out,
Norway can be that flat too.

Among other things, the island of Senja is famous for its largest troll in the world. To understand from the photo how big he is, take a closer look at his right hand - there is a troll in it
holds a real fishing boat:

Smaller relatives live next to the giant troll:

In general, this is something like an open-air theme park. No fences or barriers. We reached it late in the evening, although on a sunny polar day, according to the photographs of this,
of course you can't tell. There was not a soul in the whole park - only us and huge strange figures. Moreover, if the big-eyed tractor still evoked some associations (yes, I watch a lot of cartoons
with son!)...

The land of harsh Vikings and northern lights, majestic fjords and snow-white ice, emerald greenery and hospitable people - this is all Norway - amazing country located in northern Europe, in the west of the Scandinavian Peninsula. Few know, but Norway is a kingdom. It still has its own monarch, who rules the country in accordance with the constitution adopted in 1814.

The local climate (subarctic in the far north, maritime in coastal areas and continental in mountainous areas) is moderate. In summer, the temperature fluctuates between plus six and fifteen degrees, in winter it drops to minus twelve, but it can stay around zero.

Most Big City Norway - the capital of the country Oslo, unlike other European cities, boasts not only a historical and cultural and commercial spectrum of entertainment, but also a stunning environment created thanks to numerous natural parks and reserves.

The cultural and tourist center of Norway - the city of Bergen is located in the west of the country. Located between Oslo and Bergen, Geilo hosts a popular ski resort. There are a lot of places for skiing in Norway, as well as majestic snowy peaks.

You can get to know the country better during a special sightseeing tour passing along the Oslo-Bergen route. While on holiday in Norway, you should definitely try the local goat cheese, whale meat and smoked fish. The best souvenirs are troll figurines and deer skin products.

Popular hotels and hostels at affordable prices.

from 500 rubles/day

What to see in Norway?

The most interesting and Beautiful places, photos and a short description.

1. Geirangerfjord

Majestic waterfalls, sheer cliffs, about one and a half kilometers high, snow-white glaciers and abandoned farms located on small mountain sites, make up the inexplicable charm of one of the most picturesque fjords in Norway. The Fjord Museum located nearby introduces tourists to the geographical life of the country.

The tiny Norwegian city, known since the 17th century as a copper mining center, still preserves its historical heritage: its center is represented by unique wooden houses built several centuries ago. The local artist H. Solberg was very fond of Roros and often painted the city with its surroundings.

Built at the beginning of the 12th century, the wooden church in Urnes is a striking example of a unique “animal style”, characterized by asymmetric ornamentation and the use of animal motifs. The latter paint a scene of a struggle between a lion (Christianity) and a serpent (paganism) at the Stave Church. There is a version that scenes from Scandinavian mythology are depicted on the carved panels of the temple.

One hundred and eighty-two meter waterfall is the most popular in Norway. Located in the Mobödalen valley and part of the Bjoreyu River, it is most beautiful at the foot of the local National Trail. The view from above is another convenient vantage point for observing the Vøringsfossen waterfall.

Located on the island of Mageryo, the North Cape is a large ledge that rises to three hundred and seven meters. granite rock, full of cracks. It is the northernmost point (having access roads) of the common European market and contains a convenient observation deck from which it offers a majestic view of the Barents Sea.

In an early 20th-century building on the Bygdö peninsula, you can see three huge Viking ships built in the 9th century and found a thousand years later in the waters of Oslo. The objects present on the grandiose ship structures are also included in the museum collection: old wooden sledges and carts, dishes, household belongings and fragments of fabrics can be seen today by everyone.

One of the largest European glaciers covers an area of ​​​​487 square kilometers and has about fifty independent glaciers extending from it. Since 1991, Jostedalsbreen has been part of the Jostedalsbreen national park. The glacier is fed by abundant snowfall.

The Hanseatic embankment of Bergen consists of colorful wooden houses built before the beginning of the 18th century. Many old buildings have been reconstructed after numerous fires, but their stone cellars boast a five hundred year history. Modern Bryggen is a meeting place for artists working in their workshops and tourists visiting local souvenir shops.

Sculptures conveying human states by Gustav Vigeland constitute a separate composition. large park Oslo-Frogner. Wrestling, dancing, running, hugging - everything that a person does and how he lives is embodied in more than two hundred frozen figures. Some of the park's compositions are allegorical in nature. These include sculptures of "Angry Baby" and "Man Attacked by Babies".

A giant cliff, towering over the Lysefjord to a height of six hundred and four meters, ends with a flat, square platform. The path to it passes through picturesque mountain landscapes and takes about two hours. The "pulpit" introduces tourists to several belts of vegetation: its foot is covered with forests, only mosses and lichens remain to the top.

Oslo's main street bears the name of the local king, who died in 1844. It stretches along the city for one kilometer, connecting the Central Station with the Palace of the Norwegian rulers. The main sights of Oslo are located in the Karl Johan area. The area adjacent to the street is considered the central part of the city. West Oslo is located behind the Palace, east - behind the station.

The popular Norwegian resort, located in the suburbs of Oslo, consists of five hundred kilometers of ski, biathlon and slalom tracks. Perched on top of it Observation deck offers stunning views of the country's capital. Holmenkollen also has its own ski jump, reaching a length of one hundred and fifteen meters.

In a glass tent, standing on the shores of the Oslofjord, the Bygdö peninsula, the Fram vessel, which took part in three polar Norwegian expeditions, is exhibited. Museum visitors can board the ship, look into the cabins and admire the stuffed animals that inhabit the regions of the North and South Poles.

twenty kilometers Railway, passing through the west of Norway, is an integral part of the Bergen Highway, but is used mainly for tourism purposes. The main part of the path runs at a slope of five and a half degrees. The railway route goes through the picturesque Flåms Valley, full of steep mountains, tunnels and waterfalls.

One of the most visited waterfalls in Norway is located in the west of the country, not far from the town of Nurheimsund. The twenty-meter stream of water is part of the Fosselva River. A bridge located inside the waterfall allows tourists to enjoy an unusual natural spectacle. The surroundings of Steinsdalsfoss (emerald grass, lush forests) are no less beautiful than the waterfall itself.

Protruding like a giant tongue, the section of the Skjeggedal rock is located far from the classic tourist routes. It takes five hours to get to it, and most of the time you have to walk uphill. From Troll's Tongue you can enjoy a wonderful view of Lake Ringedalsvatn, located 350 meters below the cliff.

The narrowest fjord in Norway is a seventeen-kilometer bay with sheer cliffs more than one and a half kilometers high. On the banks of the Neroy are small farms and tiny villages, the largest of which is Gudvangen. In it, tourists can find an old hotel and a souvenir shop offering products of local craftsmen.

Located in the north of Norway, the open-air museum contains more than five thousand rock paintings. They were created by ancient people in the period from 4200 BC. before 500 BC Cave images contain scenes of hunting and fishing, shamanic rituals, scenes of cooking and relationships between people.

Colliding with particles of gases in the upper atmosphere, tiny solar particles generate an amazing a natural phenomenon – northern lights. Norway is the only country in the world where you can see it in all its glory. Multi-colored flashes in the sky are best observed in the northern part of the country from October to February.

The oldest lighthouse in Norway (date of construction - February 1655) is the southernmost in the continental part of the country. For a long time it served to navigate ships passing between the Norwegian and Danish coasts. Now a museum has been opened at the Lindesnes lighthouse, introducing visitors to the history of the building, which has gone from a coal firebox to the latest radio navigation system.

Stretching in a thin jagged line in the Norwegian Sea, the Lofoten Islands are an excellent place to relax for a few days. It has a surprisingly mild climate for the north and a lot of accommodation in fishermen's houses (rorbuer), which are now well equipped and can accommodate 2-6 people. In addition, there are five hostels and many campsites in the Lofoten Islands. Hurtigrute coastal vessels call at the ports of Stamsund and Svolvær, and from Bodø go to southern islands Moskenes, Vereuil and Röst. Slightly cheaper high-speed passenger ships are also associated with Svolvaer. Intercity bus service connects the mainland and the islands (from Bodø to Svolvær via Fauske and from Narvik to Svolvær).

The town of Svolvær and the village of Henningsvær on the island of Eustvogøy

The main town on the largest of the northern islands (Eustvogöy) is Svolvaer, an unremarkable place where all the island's buses stop. Vessels from Bodø moor about 1 kilometer west of the city center, while Hurtigrute ships moor in the center, next to the bus station and tourist office, where you can get information about the island and find out the bus schedule (from late May to mid-June Monday-Friday 9.00-16.00 and Saturday 10.00-14.00; from mid-June to mid-August Monday-Friday 9.00-16.00 and 17.00-19.30/21.30, Saturday 9.00/10.00-14.00/16.00, Sunday 16.00-19.00; from mid to end of August Monday-Friday 9.00-19.00 , Saturday 10.00-14.00; from September to mid-May Monday-Friday 9.00-16.00).

It's nice to stay in the old houses on the water Svolvoer Sjohus on the shore near Parkgata, 5 minutes walk from the square. The price of accommodation includes the use of a well-equipped kitchen. In the eastern part of the harbor, a dam leads to the islet Svinoya. The island has Svinoya and Rorbuer, these are simple fishing huts, and chic houses with all amenities. Buses from Svolvær lead to the much more attractive village of Henningsvær, 23 kilometers to the southwest, with winding streets and brightly painted wooden houses on the harbour. It is worth spending the night here: in the very center, accommodation is offered in Den siste Viking, Misvaerveien 10, on the right is the Klatrekafeen cafe.

The village of Stamsund on the island of Vestvogöy

Next big Island in the southwest, Vestvogøy attracts tourists in no small part due to the charm of Stamsund, where old buildings line the rocky shore. This is the first stop of the Hurtigrute coastal vessels on their way north from Bodø and the best place to live on the islands. It is easy to get here from Esvogöy by bus, however, with a change in Leknes, 16 kilometers to the west.

In Stamsund, the first thing to do is to go to a hospitable hostel (closed from mid-October to December), consisting of several fishermen's houses (rorbuer) on the shore of a small bay, about 1 kilometer from the port and 200 meters from the Leknes bus station. Here is first-class fishing: the hostel rents boats and nets, you can cook dinner from your catch on the wood-burning stoves in the hostel.

Flakstadøya and Moskenesøya islands in Norway

The next two Lofoten islands, Flakstadøya and Moskenesøya, are surprisingly good. Highway E-10 follows a rocky coast lined with tunnels and bridges to the port of Moskenes, halfway between Bodø and the "bird" islands of Værøy and Röst to the south. After about 6 kilometers, the highway ends with one of the most charming villages on the islands called "O" with a number of old buildings crammed between gray-green mountains and rough seas.

The Lofoten Islands are an archipelago located in the Norwegian Sea off the northwest coast of the country. They are separated from the mainland of the state by the Vestfjord Strait. They belong to Norway, are its pride and attract a huge number of tourists from all over the world.

The archipelago is made up of seven major islands and numerous small ones, which are separated from each other by straits. The distances between them are relatively small. The territory of the Lofoten Islands covers a total of 1227 square kilometers. About 24 thousand people live on the islands of the archipelago.

Despite a small number population, the rocky islands of the archipelago have rich history and many world-famous objects - here is the Maelstrom whirlpool, the largest deep-sea coral reef on our planet, the largest surviving feast hall, which dates back to the majestic Viking era. The beauty of the Lofoten Islands is sung by artists, poets and writers.

History of the Lofoten Islands

In the past, the islands of the archipelago were dotted with apartments of wealthy Vikings, the ruins of which have survived to this day. And the local population has long been engaged in fishing and sheep breeding.

The first inhabitants settled here about six thousand years ago. Living conditions here were very favorable - mild climate, access to fresh fish and meat. At that time, the rocky islands were drowning in the thick of coniferous and deciduous forests, where a huge number of various wild animals lived.

In addition, the Lofoten Islands have always been strewn with fishermen's houses. Fishing was so important to local residents that in 1103 King Oystein ordered the construction of a church in Wogan, which would patronize local fishermen.

Where did the name of the archipelago, located not far from the coast of Norway, come from? A whole group of islands borrowed the old name of the island of Vestvogoya - it was previously called Lofoten, which in translation from ancient Scandinavian forms the phrase "lynx" and "leg". Probably, such a phrase meant that the island was shaped like a lynx's foot.

Geography of the islands

The archipelago settled north of the Arctic Circle. The seven largest of the Lofoten Islands are: Austvogoy, Vestvogoy, Veroy, Gimsoy, Moskenesoy, Flakstadöy, Röst. The southern part of the largest island belonging to Norway, the island of Hinney, is also part of the archipelago. In general, the islands stretched for 60 kilometers in length.

The climate of the Lofoten archipelago

The Gulf Stream plays a huge role in shaping the climate of the archipelago. As mentioned above, the Lofoten Islands are located beyond the Arctic Circle, but due to the warm current, the climate here is very mild, maritime, and temperature drops are very small.

In winter, the temperature here rarely drops below zero. Summers in the Lofoten archipelago are quite cold but dry, the average temperature of the hottest months, July and August, is about 15 degrees above zero. The coldest months on the islands are January and February.

The Lofoten Islands are also characterized by such a phenomenon as a polar day and a polar night. In the period from May 27 to July 17, the sun does not fall below the horizon line. It is worth noting that these months are the driest of the year. But from December 6 to January 6, the polar night sets in.

The water off the coast of the Lofoten Islands is mostly quite cold, but in summer it sometimes warms up to +17 degrees.

Animals and vegetation

The islands of the archipelago are inhabited by a wide variety of sea birds, here you can meet cormorants, sea eagles and colorful puffins. Moose and otters live in the forests. As for vegetation, birch and mountain ash predominate among the trees, there is a large number of coniferous forests.

Sights of the Lofoten Islands

Lofotr, the Viking Museum, is located in Borge. It was founded on the site of the largest surviving banquet hall built by the Vikings. This majestic building stretched 83 meters in length! The width of the structure is eight and a half meters.

The islands of the Lofoten archipelago are especially popular among lovers of mountaineering and cycling. The islands even had specially designed routes for those who like to pedal and enjoy beautiful scenery. And during the Summer Solstice, competitions are held annually among cyclists - the participants of such an event are given the opportunity to ride their favorite transport through all the islands of the archipelago.

It is noteworthy that the islands of the Lofoten archipelago are famous for their dried cod. For more than a thousand years, residents have been supplying their signature fish to different parts of our planet.

How to get to the islands?

There are several airports on the islands. In addition, the E10 road was built relatively recently, which connected the largest of the islands with mainland Norway. The element of this road is famous bridge Raftsundet is one of the largest cantilever bridges in the world. There is a regular ferry service from Bodø to Mosknes.