Nikko(meaning “sunshine” in Japanese) is a small town (20 thousand inhabitants), located 125 km northeast of Tokyo, and at the same time a famous national natural park occupying a huge territory (1402 thousand sq. km) and characterized by unique landscapes and landscapes. This is a mountainous country with the majestic snowy peak of Nantaisan and Lake Chuzenji, from which the most beautiful Kegon waterfalls originate in Japan. But the main attraction is the Toshogu Shinto Shrine - the resting place of the great commander and statesman Shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa.

Nikko is included in the UNESCO Golden Fund as a complex of temples of world historical and cultural significance. The Japanese say: “Don’t say you’ve seen what’s beautiful until you’ve visited Nikko.” In addition to temples, Nikko can surprise tourists with beautiful mountain landscapes, waterfalls and lakes.

Nikko gets crowded in early August, when thousands of pilgrims in white robes, straw hats and simple sandals go up to Lake Chuzenji to bathe in its cold waters and visit the Buddhist temples located along its shores. On the night of August 3, large groups of people with staffs and torches in their hands climb to the sacred peak of Mount Nantaisan to worship the shrines. There they meet the sunrise.

In autumn, many people come to Nikko to witness the beauty of the flaming maple foliage. The custom of admiring the scarlet leaves of maples, momijigari, dates back to the autumn harvest festival. At these festivals, ancient songs about the beauty of nature and love are still performed. The best time to visit is mid-October for Yumoto and Lake Chuzenji and mid-November for central Nikko.

At all times of the year, the Japanese come to Nikko to admire the flowers. At the very end of winter, not far from the ancient Ritsui Temple (7th century), Japanese plum trees are the first to bloom. In mid-April, the plum tree is replaced by cherry blossoms. Some cherry trees are up to two centuries old. Their flowers have a peculiar golden hue. This is a special, rare type of sakura - Kongosakura.

Nikko is located at an altitude of 530 m at sea level and it is usually much colder here than in Tokyo (on average, maybe 10 degrees), especially in the mountains.

How to get to Nikko

Nikko is located 125 km north of Tokyo and is convenient to go there for 1-2 days. Tokyo and Nikko are connected by Tobu Railways and Japan Railways (JR):

Tobu Railways:

The TR terminal is located at Asakusa Station. Fast trains depart every hour, the journey takes about 2 hours and costs 1320 yen one way (Rapid train takes 2 hours 10 minutes. Section Rapid – 2 hours 40 minutes). Also, in the morning and afternoon, express trains (all seats are reserved) “Kegon” depart, the travel time on which takes about 105 minutes, but also costs 2 times more.

Attention: at Shimoimachi station the cars are detached from the train, so those traveling to Kunigawa board cars 1-4; in Nikko - 5-6.

Rapid train schedule http://www.tobu.co.jp/foreign/pdf/timetables.pdf (departure time from Asakusa station - arrival time at Tobu Nikko station): 8:10 - 10:18, 9: 10 - 11:22 (1st train, there are 6:20 and 7:10, but you still need to buy travel cards, and the ticket office opens at 7:45); back (departure time from Tobu Nikko station - arrival time at Asakusa station): Section Rapid 18:08 - 20:55, 16:59 - 19:35 (the last Rapid leaves in the morning, and later only Limited Express goes)

There are travel cards. World Heritage Pass includes round trip travel, entrance fees to Toshogu Shrine, Futarasan Shrine, Rinnoji Temple, discounts at select other temples and souvenir shops, unlimited bus rides within Nikko (Tobu buses from the station to the temples) and trains between Nikko and Kinugawa hot spring area (non-express Tobu trains between Nikko, Shimo-Imaichi and Shin-Fujiwara), discounts on Tobu World Square, Edo Wonderland and Western Village. Valid for 2 consecutive days. Costs 3600 yen. Available only to foreigners. You can buy it at the Tobu Sightseeing Service Center (opening hours from 7:45 to 17:00) and Tobu Travel, a travel agency at Asakusa Station, Tobu's main station in central Tokyo. You can book it at least 4 days in advance here: http://www.tobu.co.jp/foreign/pass/w_heritage_pass.html.

All Nikko Pass worth 4400 yen. Also only for foreigners, valid for 4 consecutive days and also includes travel to Lake Chuzenji, Yumoto Onsen and Kirifuri Heights (Okunikko region).

There are also passes for everyone, with travel to the onsen, they cost 4400 or 5980 yen for 4 days, depending on the route.

Express trains from Shinjuku Station:

A direct express (jointly operated by Japan Railways (JR) and Tobu Railways) connects Shinjuku Station and Tobu Nikko Station. A one-way trip takes 2 hours and costs 3,900 yen. All places are reserved. The Japan Rail Pass does not cover the entire cost of the trip, the JR East Pass covers the cost of train travel, but not travel to Nikko.

Japan Railways (JR) (for Japan Rail Pass holders):

JR Tohoku Shinkansen (from Tokyo or Ueno Station) to Utsunomiya Station and transfer to JR Nikko Line. The journey takes about 100 minutes and costs 5,000 yen one way. This arrangement may only be attractive to Japan Rail Pass holders.

The most profitable and convenient option, apparently, is to buy a World Heritage Pass (or All Nikko Pass, if we decide to visit Okuniko).

From the hotel 4 minutes to the station. Okubo, from there take JR Chuo Line to station. Ochanomizu (18 min, 9 stops, 160 yen). Further JR Sobu Line (Google says no transfer required?) to the station. Akihabara (2 min, 1 stop). Then transfer to Tsukuba Express (9 minutes per transfer) to the station. Asakusa (4 min, 2 stops, 200 yen). 3 minutes walk from exit A4 art. Asakusa to Toei Subway Asakusa Line and Tobu Asakusa Station Central Exit, TOBU SIGHTSEEING SERVICE CENTER. Travel time is approximately 40 minutes. Plus time to buy a pass, the road to Nikko (Rapid train takes 2 hours 10 minutes. Section Rapid - 2 hours 40 minutes). Total: about 3.5 hours.

Okubo St.(新大久保駅) → Ochanomizu St.(御茶ノ水駅) by JR Chuo Line(ＪＲ中央線)

Ochanomizu St.(御茶ノ水駅) → Akihabara St.(秋葉原駅) by JR Sobu Line (JR総武線)

By Tsukuba Express (つくばエクスプレ) →Asakusa Station (浅草駅) →TOBU SIGHTSEEING SERVICE CENTER. By Tobu Train from Asakusa Station (浅草駅) to Tobu Nikko Station.

What to see in Nikko

All the most famous Nikko temples are located in one place, about 2 kilometers from the station. Nikko. They can be reached on foot in 30-40 minutes along the main street of Nikko, or by bus (10 minutes, 300 yen one way or 500 yen day pass).

Tobu Nikko Station, designed like a giant Swiss chalet, opens onto a square surrounded by souvenir shops. The main road at the western corner of the square leads to the Toshogu Temple complex. The station building has luggage storage facilities and an information desk whose employees speak English. There you can get maps of the city and surrounding area, and bus schedules. On the way to Toshogu, at the post office there is an ATM that accepts foreign credit cards; in the city itself they are almost never accepted.

From the station buses go on 2 routes. One goes to Lake Chuzenji, making stops at Shinkyo and Nishisando stations, from which it is a 5-10 minute walk to the temples. In addition, there is World Heritage Meguri a bus that runs along a circular route and stops a little closer to the temple. Departs from Nikko station every 15 minutes. Get off at "Omotesando" to visit Toshogu and Rinnoji or at "Taiyuinbyo-Futarasanjinja-mae" to visit Taiyuinbyo and Futarasan temples.

Bus routes:

Buses connect central Nikko with the Okunikko area, including Lake Chuzenji and Yumoto Onsen in Nikko National Park. A one-way trip to Lake Chuzenji takes about 50 minutes and costs 1,100 yen; to Yumoto Onsen - 80 min, 1650 yen. A 2-day pass with unlimited travel between Nikko and the lake can be purchased at Tobu Nikko Station for 2,000 yen, between Nikko and Yumoto Onsen for 3,000 yen.

You can get from the station to the temples by bus, or you can walk. Leaving the station building, crossing the square diagonally and turning right, we find ourselves on Oodori, the main street of the city. There are many wooden shops selling antiques, buildings of ancient hotels, ryokans,
souvenir shops. We walk along the street for about 20 minutes and approach the river, there we will see two bridges across it: a modern one, and one of the most famous landmarks of Nikko - the red-varnished Shinkyo Bridge ("Sacred Bridge"). According to legend, the Buddhist monk Shodo Shonin visited Nikko in the 8th century and was helped to cross the Daiya-gawa River in this very place by two snakes that formed a bridge. The wooden curved bridge was first erected in 1636 and has been rebuilt many times since then.

After leaving the bridge, take the left path (the right one leads to the Kosugi Hoana Art Museum), which will lead to the main buildings of Rinnoji.

Rinnoji Temple

It is considered the most important temple in Nikko of the Tendai sect of Buddhism. Founded by Shodo Shonnin, a Buddhist monk, in 766, his statue stands at the entrance.

The main temple building, Sanbutsudo, is large, painted red and decorated with gold, and contains wooden statues of Amida Buddha, Thousand-Armed Kannon and Horse-Headed Kannon sitting on lotus flowers. These three Buddhist deities are the incarnations of the three mountain kami to whom Futarasan Shrine is dedicated.

Opposite is the temple museum, which displays artifacts dating back to the Tokugawa shogunate and Buddhist relics. Behind is Shoyoen, a beautiful Japanese-style garden with paths around a small pond.

Currently, the main temple is being restored and is covered with huge protective shields, but is accessible to tourists. The work will last until March 2021.

Located 30-40 minutes on foot or 10 minutes by bus (300 yen one way) from the station. Nikko. Nearby is Toshogu Temple. Open daily from 8:00 to 17:00, admission to Sanbutsudo - 400 yen, treasury and garden - 300 yen, 1000 yen - combined ticket (also covers Toshogu, Taiyuinbyo and Futarasan Shrine, but does not include treasury and garden) .

Toshogu Shrine

Let's walk through the stone torii (the original fragment of the building of 1617), on the left side we will see the impressive red and green five-tiered pagoda (built in 1819 on the site of the original that burned down in 1650). There's a gate ahead Omotemon, entrance to Toshogu Shrine (ticket counters are located here).

On the territory of the sanctuary we turn left, on the right side there will be Three sacred storehouses(sanjinko), from the left - Stable of the Sacred Horse(sink) with the famous bas-relief with three monkeys: “hear no evil, speak no evil, see no evil” - the main three principles of the Tendai Buddhist sect. Above, on the main road there is an 11-meter gate Yomeimon(Gate of Sunlight) covered with gilding and trimmed with multi-color carvings. In front of the gate, in the middle of a stone pond, there are a drum and a bell tower, behind them - Honjido(admission 50 yen) - a small pavilion, part of the Rinnoji Temple, famous for the "roaring dragon" image on the ceiling. If you clap your hands directly under it, the echo will return with its roar. To the right along the corridor from the Yomeimon Gate there will be a gate Sakashitamon, in front of them is a sculpture sleeping cat(nemuri neko). Behind the gate begins an ancient stone staircase that leads up to Ieyasu's tomb in the middle of a pine meadow- the only place in the sanctuary where it is not usually crowded. Right in front of the Yomeimon Gate - a white and gold gate Karamon leading to the prayer hall Hayden. Side entrance to the hall to the right of the gate, here you have to take off your shoes and you can’t take pictures. Inside you can go down to Honden, the main hall of the sanctuary, which retains beautiful original decoration. Returning through the Yomeimon Gate, we pass Jinyosha- a structure where mikoshi (miniature shrines) are kept. At the end of the temple complex, on the left side as you exit through the Omotemon Gate, there is a simple wooden building in traditional style, since 1928 - Nikko Toshogu Art Museum (8:00-16:00, 800 yen), has the best collection in the country shojo and screens, painted by the most famous artists of Japan.

The Toshogu Shrine is the resting place of the great commander and statesman, Shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa, who at the turn of the 17th century managed not only to seize supreme power in Japan, but also to put an end to the bloody civil strife that was draining the country. The shrine is also dedicated to Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Minamoto Yoritomo, two of the most significant historical figures.

In contrast to minimalism, which is generally considered the essence of Japanese art, every corner of the temple and mausoleum is filled with details and trifles. Animals, mythical and not, seek to attract your attention from the lacquered and gilded surfaces. The walls of the temples are decorated with intricate patterns, painted carvings and paintings, including flowers, dancing girls, mythical animals and Chinese sages. The overall effect is more Chinese than Japanese. Despite ongoing accusations of being vulgar and completely contrary to everything considered Japanese, Toshogu Shrine remains a great place.
attraction.

The main attraction of the temple ensemble is the Toshogu Shinto Shrine. Its main buildings are a majestic staircase, huge stone torii, the Yomeimon and Karamon gates with an abundance of details decorating the columns, walls and pediments of the gates, Honden - the main hall of the sanctuary, where the spirit of Ieyasu Tokugawa rests, the bronze Hodo pagoda, under the arches of which the ashes of the shogun are kept - as if climbing up the side of a mountain. The complex consists of more than a dozen Shinto and Buddhist buildings located in a beautiful park. The most amazing and famous attraction of the sanctuary is Yomeimon - “Gate of Sunlight”. They got this name because you can admire them all day long - from dawn to dusk. One side of this gate is completely covered with carvings, and all the images on it are upside down. This was not done by chance: the masters wanted their art to be admired by the gods from heaven. Low-ranking samurai were not allowed to enter the gates Yomeimon- is located there Ieyasu's tomb, a staircase of 207 steps leads to it.

Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu left instructions for his burial - for religious and political reasons, he chose a place northeast of Tokyo, since evil spirits threatened the city from this direction. As an incarnation of Buddha and at the same time a Shinto deity, the deceased ruler wanted to protect the capital in this way even after death. In 1652, after the death of Iemitsu, a mausoleum was built on the temple grounds, called Taiyuin.

However, he did not have time to complete the construction of his mausoleum, and his grandson decided not just to continue the work, but to create a structure that would symbolize the limitless wealth and power of the shogunate. Iemitsu began collecting "donations" from the daimyo, thereby ensuring that none of them could finance the rebellion. Construction was completed in 1634 and more than 15,000 people took part in it. The mausoleum required 38 tons of red varnish and 2.5 million gold plates to cover its walls. Richly decorated buildings flaunt against the backdrop of picturesque mountains surrounded by ancient mighty cedars.

The Nikko monuments are an international cultural heritage of humanity and are protected by UNESCO.

The most grandiose festival of the Toshogu Shrine is the Sennin-gyoretsu festival or Toshogu Matsuri - “Procession consisting of a thousand people”, which has been held in Nikko annually on May 17-18 since 1617, when the body of shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu was reburied.

To commemorate this event, one of the most impressive festive processions in the country is held over two days in May. Now this holiday has become a festival of Japanese folk art, where you can see ancient rituals, dances, and hear music performed on traditional musical instruments. You can view and buy authentic antique items - weapons, helmets, clothes. The holiday begins with a procession, at the head of which, paying tribute to tradition, are the “descendants” of the Tokugawa house, their “courtiers,” clergy, and warriors. After the ritual ceremony at the Toshogu Shrine, three metal mirrors are taken out of it, in which the souls of the three great shoguns are embodied - Minamoto Yoritomo, Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Tokugawa Ieyasu, and solemnly placed in the mikoshi - the sacred palanquin. The procession with the mikoshi descends from the temple to the Yomei Gate and through it to the Futarasan Temple. Here the mikoshi will stay until the next day, and then return to their sanctuary.

The main part of the holiday falls on the next day. Over a thousand people actually participate in it, and it is precisely this that attracts a lot of spectators. The procession stretches for more than a kilometer and represents a typical procession of feudal times. The abundance of authentic attributes gives it greater authenticity.

Behind the horseman leading the procession, about a hundred people in samurai costumes with halberds in their hands march in two ranks. The procession is guarded from evil spirits by a group of people wearing lion masks with long manes (according to ancient beliefs, a lion drives evil away from the road). Next march spearmen, warriors with ancient weapons, in helmets with deer antlers, in decorated armor, with sparkling orange shields and bright battle banners. They depict the shogun's retinue. Then 12 boy servants appear, their headdresses decorated with images of animals in accordance with the signs of the zodiac. Behind them are people wearing fox masks; according to ancient beliefs, the spirit of the fox that lives in the mountains around Nikko guards the Toshogu Temple. A large group of Shinto priests is involved in the process. To the beat of drums and gongs, people appear dressed as hunters with stuffed falcons in their hands. Falconry was a favorite pastime of the military class of those times. The appearance of the mikoshi is the culmination of the holiday.

Some of the temple buildings are under reconstruction (from 2007 to 2019), but are accessible to tourists.

Toshogu is 30-40 minutes on foot or 10 minutes by bus (300 yen one way, 500 yen day pass or free with Tobu free passes) from Tobu and JR Nikko Stations. Open daily from 8 am to 5 pm (until 4 pm from November to March). The cost is 1300 yen, if you have Tobu free passes you need to pay an additional 520 yen for visiting Ieyasu’s grave and nemuri neko carving (I don’t know what it is)). Or a combined ticket for 1000 yen, which also includes visits to Rinnoji, Taiyuinbyo and Futarasan Shrine.

At the end of the tropics, on the right side of Toshogu, is the simple building of the Futarasan-jija Shrine, painted red.

The temple was founded in 782 by Shodo Shonin and the spirits of Mount Nantai-san, a volcano whose eruption led to the formation of Lake Chuzenjiko nearby. This is the main sanctuary. The middle sanctuary is located near the lake, and the most revered one is on the top of the mountain.

The main building is located 200 m east of Toshogu. Daily from 8:00 to 17:00, individual ticket costs 200 yen.

There is a garden next to the main building (200 yen) where you can drink green tea matcha with sweets in a small tea house (350 yen). It is worth paying attention to the ancient (1292 year) bronze lantern bakemono toro(“lantern of spirits”), believed to have demonic powers. Just beyond Futarasan-jinja is the Taiyuin-byo Shrine.

This is the mausoleum of the third Tokugawa shogun, Iemitsu, grandson of Ieyasu. It is similar to Toshogu in architecture and luxury, but is deliberately made more modest. It also includes Shinto and Buddhist elements. This complex is part of the Rinnoji Temple, located in a remote, hilly area.

By the way, the first shogun, Ieyasu, although the most famous person of the Tokugawa clan, his grandson, Iemitsu (1604 - 1651), buried in Taiyu-in, did no less for the country. It was Iemitsu who ensured the strength of the central government by introducing the hostage system sankin kotai. Under this system, everyone big
landowners, Tokugawa vassals, daimyo, it was prescribed to spend every second year at the court of the shogun, and before returning to leave members of his family at the court as hostage guests. Iemitsu closed the country to foreigners in 1639 (only Dutch merchants were allowed to continue trading with Japan), marking the beginning sakoku jidai- the period of Japan's isolation from
outside world, which lasted until 1868. At the same time, he managed to ban Christianity. Iemitsu ensured the further prosperity of his clan, completed the mausoleum of Ieyasu, continuing the work of his father, the second shogun, Hidetada. He idolized his grandfather, and ordered his own mausoleum to be built on the model of Toshogu, but more modestly. Construction of Taiyu-in began in 1652 and was completed in record time - 14 months.

Taiyuinbyo is located 200 meters west of Toshogu. Daily from 8:00 to 17:00, separate ticket 550 yen. To visit, it is recommended to purchase a general admission ticket that includes Toshogu, Rinnoji's Sanbutsudo and Futarasan Shrine for 1,000 yen. I wonder if this temple belongs to Rinnoji Temple, which is free to visit for Tobu free pass holders, does that mean visiting it is also free?

Just outside the first gate, which is called Nio-mon, is suibansha rectangular well for washing hands. It is located under a canopy with a dragon painted on the inside. In good weather, this dragon can be seen swimming in the water with its entire reflection. A long wide stone staircase, surrounded by huge Japanese cedar trees, leads to
the second gate, Nitenmon, or the gate of the Two Heavens. On both sides of the gate are statues of guards, Komoku-ten and Jikoku-ten - the green god of Wind and the red god of Thunder. This is perhaps the most elegant place in Taiyu-in, reminiscent of Ieyasu’s mausoleum.

The third gate, Yashamon, is named after four statues I am, from the Indian Yasha, deities who turn into demons at the sight of non-believers. Behind these gates, as you might guess, there is another one, Kara-mon, or the Chinese Gate, the smallest, most exquisite. Under their arch is a pair of carved cranes - symbols of longevity.

The Momiji, or red Japanese maples, growing near the Niten-mon gate are called "Shichihenge no Momiji" (Maples of the Seven Changes) because their leaves change seven shades in the fall, from green to red.

Regarding the internal temple pilgrimage ( Hayden) and the main temple (honden), located behind this string of gates, and the tomb itself, their location almost copies the mausoleum of the first shogun, Ieyasu, - Toshogu. To the right of the main temple is the unusual Koka-mon gate, leading to the tomb. The entrance there is closed. This gate is also sometimes called the Ryugu-mon Gate, since its style resembles the gate of a fabulous underwater kingdom, to which the hero of Japanese fairy tales, Urashima Taro, was taken by a grateful turtle.

The Tale of the Turtle and Urashima Taro. Once upon a time there lived a fisherman named Urashima Taro. One day he saw that the children had caught a turtle on the shore and were torturing it. Urashima Taro took the turtle from them and released it back into the sea. Soon the turtle’s mother swam to the shore and, in gratitude for Urashima Taro’s kindness, offered to take him to the underwater magical castle where Princess Oto-hime lived. Urashima Taro agreed and spent three wonderful years in a magical castle, living in fun and luxury. But then
got bored and told the princess that it was time for him to go home. Letting him go, she gave him a magic casket as a farewell gift, tamate-bako, but she warned him that he should under no circumstances open it, because it would lead to unpredictable consequences. Taro returned to his village - everything had changed there, no one recognized him, and he did not know any of the people who lived there. Feeling sad, I decided to open
after all, it’s Oto-hime’s casket. And as soon as he did this, white smoke rose from there, enveloped him entirely, and when it cleared, Taro was still sitting there, only he had turned into a gray-haired, decrepit old man.

Taiyuin is a place where you can spend about forty minutes in contemplation and thoughts about mortality, then leisurely get out and go on an hour and a half walk through the forest, along a route called shiseki-tansho-ro, or road among ancient monuments.

Returning to the entrance, we see a narrow path between the Taiyu-in Mausoleum and the Futarasan-jinja Temple. Along this path we will go up to a small forest temple. After about 25 minutes, a small waterfall, Shiraito-no-Taki, or White Thread Waterfall, will appear to the left of the path. Its height is only 6 meters; during Kukai’s time this place was considered sacred.

Kukai (774-835) - Japanese priest, calligrapher and poet. In 804 he went to China to study Buddhism, two years later he returned to Japan and founded the Shingon Buddhist sect. In 820 he arrived in Nikko, and thanks to his activities Nikko became a famous center of Buddhism. Mountain Buddhism,
Shugendo, or Buddhism of mountain ascetics - a combination of Buddhism and the ancient cult of mountains. Monks who practice Shugendo are called Yamabushi. Now there are almost none left; the heyday of the movement occurred in the 14th century, with the founding of the Buddhist sects Tendai and Shingon.

Walking a little further along the path, we will see the stone torii of the Takinoo-jinja Temple. They are called un-dameshi-no-torii, that is, the Gate of Fortune. At the top in the center of the gate there is a round hole; if you make a wish and throw three pebbles into it in a row, your wish will come true. The area around is thoroughly pitted with traces of attempts. They say that it is more convenient to shoot from above the goal. Built in 820, this small temple is dedicated to the goddess of Mount Nyoho named Tagori-hime-no-mikoto. There are several other places around the temple where you can try your luck, such as Enmusubi no Sasa. These are bamboo bushes that bring happiness in love: you just need to tie two leaves using only your little finger and
thumb.

And nearby there is a magic stone: the stone of children's seeds, or kodane-ishi. People come to him to ask for children. And it’s also flowing right there sake no izumi- sake spring. This is a spring whose water is especially prized by local sake producers and resembles its taste.

After wandering among all these wonders, let's go down to the waterfall again and go left down the stone steps. In about 8 minutes - the next temple, Kitano-jinja, although the name has the word temple (jinja) in it, it actually consists of a small stone altar and several large stones. The temple is dedicated to Sugawara Michizane, the patron saint of students and calligraphers. It is believed that this is where you should ask to improve your handwriting.

After walking a few more minutes, we will see a small, unremarkable building. In fact, this is an important cultural monument - Kaizan-do, the mausoleum of Shodo Shonin, the first monk to come to Nikko and found the sect of mountain Buddhism. To the left of Kaizan-do there is another unusual temple, Kannon-do. On his altar there are rows of huge wooden kyosya, - chips from shogi, Japanese chess, for this the temple is also called Kyosya-do.

Shogi is reminiscent of chess: to win, you need to checkmate the king, oh-so, but compared to chess, the rules are more complicated, since it is possible to play with captured enemy pieces.
Kyosya is a piece reminiscent of a rook in chess - it always moves forward and in a straight line. They are brought to the temple by women who have recently become mothers. According to local beliefs, if a pregnant woman takes from this temple kyosya and brings it home - the birth will be easy, because the baby will move like a baby. After giving birth, grateful women return the kyosha to the krama, in gratitude, in a larger size. Some donate to the temple oh-so- in the hope that the child will be as strong as this figure. Judging by the number and size, the temple really helps to improve the demographics in the city of Nikko.

To the left of Kaizan-do and Kannon-do there is also a small square pond with two mossy pebbles - these are Yin and Yang, among the fallen leaves there are coins glittering at the bottom. Behind Kaizan-do is Hotoke-iwa, or Buddha Rock. In a small cave at its foot there are stone statues of six Buddhas.

Another 20 minutes along the path covered with leaves among the cedars - and here is the place from which the route began - the Shinkyobashi Bridge. From there we turn left and go along the road along the river (as at the beginning of the route), until the fork. Here the main flow of tourists will turn right, to the Toshogu Mausoleum, and we will turn left, to a more secluded place. Having walked along the river another 300 meters, we will see another fork, -
there you also need to go left and walk another 10 minutes, to the bridge called Gamman-basi. This is the Jizo Valley (or Kanmangafuchi Abyss). Behind the bridge there is a small path - it leads to the right through an alley of stone statues of Jizo, Buddhist saints, patrons of travelers and children, and lanterns to the Gamman-ga-futi waterfalls.

In general, Jizo is the favorite, most popular god of all Japanese. Children who die in infancy and have not yet sinned on earth go straight to hell. After all, they committed a grave sin before their parents, evading the fulfillment of their filial duty. Moreover, even if the parents themselves chose to have an abortion. Jizo protects children in hell. He hides them from the evil demon in his sleeve. It is not surprising that Nikko's holy places begin with the famous Jizo Valley (from Kitty Carlson’s article “Up to Mount Nantai”).

On the way to Jizo Alley there will be a small Jiun-ji Temple, founded in the mid-17th century by a priest named Kokai, the temple offers a view of the opposite bank: there is an inscription carved into the rock, which, according to legend, was created by the founder of the Shingon sect, the monk Kukai (774-835), or Kobo-Daishi. To do this, he had to throw a brush at the rock. Although this is actually a legend. The author of the inscription is not Kukai, but Kokai, and this inscription is the name of the place “Ganman” in Sanskrit. Behind the temple along the foot of the mountain there is a view of a long line of Jizo statues. Many of these statues have neatly placed piles of pebbles where their heads had fallen off; their shoulders are covered with fluffy yellowing moss. These statues are called Narabi-Jizo (Equal Jizo) (apparently due to the fact that they seem to be placed in a line), or Bake-Jizo (Enchanted Jizo). There are about 50 of them left, less than half - the rest were carried away during the large flood of the Daiya-gawa River.

From Nikko Station, take a 10-minute bus ride to Chuzenjiko Onsen or Yumoto Onsen, get off at Tamozawa stop (300 yen one way). Then walk 10-15 minutes through a residential area. Or 30 min walk from Toshogu Shrine.

Or from the Taiyuin tomb, go to the main road Nishi-sando (from here you can take a bus to the station), cross it and go down to the Daiya-gawa river. A 5-minute walk to the west will see the Ganman-bashi bridge, from which there is a path along the river bank to the abyss and waterfalls of Ganman-no-fuchi (Kanmangafuchi Abyss). Walking along the river valley, we will see about 50 stone figurines of Jizo, Buddhist saints, patrons of travelers and children lined up in a row - this is Jizo Alley.

In general, we would like to visit Lake Chuzenji-ko, from which the majestic Kegon waterfall falls, which is located 10 km west of Nikko, but it is very doubtful that we will be able to do it in one day. Then, leaving the tomb on the main road, we go to the Taiyuinbyo-Futarasanjinja-mae stop. We take a bus going to Chuzenji Onsen or Yumoto Onsen and go about 40 minutes to the Chuzenji Onsen stop, 中禅寺温泉着 (cost 110o yen). An entire tourist area has been created here with countless souvenir shops, restaurants, yacht clubs and even hot spring baths.

Lake Chuzenji is popularly called Satsu-no-umi - “Sea of ​​Happiness”. The lake, located at an altitude of 1,269 meters above sea level, was formed as a result of eruptions of the extinct Nantai-san volcano several thousand years ago. The area where the lake is located is called Okunikko (inner Nikko) and is part of the national park

You can get there along a winding road called “Irohazaka Winding Road”. It rises over 400m and consists of 48 hairpin turns (the same number as the Japanese syllabary, formerly known as "iroha"). At the top of Irohazaka Road is Chuzenji Onsen. The main thing that attracts tourists to the onsen, in addition to the springs themselves, is the stunning view of Kegon-no-taki.

Kegon is one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Japan. Its height is 97 meters and 7 meters wide at the foot. It is formed by the Ojiri River, flowing from Lake Chuzenji. The large waterfall is accompanied by 12 small ones on the sides. There are 48 waterfalls in Nikko, but Kegon Falls is the most famous of them all.

You can admire the waterfall from the lower observation deck. To do this, we get off at the Chuzenji Onsen stop, go right (to the left after 100 m there will be a lake) and after 3 minutes there will be an elevator that will take us up to it for 530 yen. They say the best view of the waterfall opens from here. There are different paths for independent travelers and group excursions.

Also, an excellent view of the waterfall and the surrounding area opens from the Aketidaira plateau, up towhich can be reached by cable car or on foot. To get on the cable car (9:00 - 16:00, 390 yen one way, 710 round trip) you need to get off at the Akechidaira bus stop, one stop short of Chuzenji Onsen. From the observation deck, where the cable car takes you, it is a 1.5 km walk up the hills and across the Chanoki-daira plateau with panoramic views of Lake Chuzenji, Mount Nantai and the famous waterfalls. Or you can go down from the plateau by cable car and take another stop to the lake. The traffic is one-way, circular!

The fullest period is from April to November. During the dry season, the falling stream may dry up, although there is a whole system of pumping water through an underground pipe. Kegon is an equally impressive sight in harsh winters, when its streams freeze into icy flows and cascades.

Near Chuzenji Onsen is the second of the three Futarasan temples, and a hiking trail leads to the third - to the top of Nantai. The temple museum displays several famous swords.

If you walk upstream of the Yukawa River from where it flows into Lake Chuzenji, you can see another waterfall, Ryuzu, which is especially beautiful in the fall, from early to mid-October.

In general, the shores of the lake are especially beautiful in early spring, when the surrounding mountains are covered with a pale pink mist of cherry blossoms, or in October, when the reddening leaves of the maples make you believe that the surrounding forests have been engulfed in a furious fire. A boat regularly departs from the pier, transporting those wishing to the other side in 20 minutes and 510 yen. However, the hiking here is also great.

Chuzenji Onsen can be reached from Nikko by bus. Tobu buses go from Tobu Nikko Station or JR Nikko Station (smaller) to Chuzenji Onsen or Yumoto Onsen, 3 buses per hour. The journey takes 50 minutes and costs 1,100 yen. To get to Ryuzu Falls, you need to take a bus from Tobu Nikko Station to Yumoto Onsen (1-2 per hour) and get off at the “Ryuzu-no-taki” stop. The journey takes 80 minutes and costs 1,650 yen one way.During the “golden autumn” season there is a peak in visits to the lake and waterfalls; there are traffic jams and therefore buses may be delayed.

More interesting information about traveling to Nikko here: http://midokoro.livejournal.com/10541.html.

So my two-week voyage around Japan has ended. I am slowly starting to share my impressions. Today we will visit the first Japanese city - Nikko.

Nikko, located surrounded by the national park of the same name, owes its popularity only to the attractions located in it.
The main street of the city, Kokudo, runs through the entire city, from the station to the outskirts.

There is no trace of any multi-storey construction. All houses in the city are 2-3 floors. These houses with cheerful stripes reminded me vaguely of French Rouen.


Bus stop.

Bus intervals range from 20 to 40 minutes, depending on the route and time of day.

The next morning I got up as early as possible. Breakfast at the restaurant was “Japanese”: a tiny portion of omelette and fresh vegetables.
The weather was gloomy, but without rain. Along Kokudo I went to the Shinkyo Bridge - this was the first significant city object scheduled for inspection.
But first I turned to the sanctuary I noticed along the way. It was not marked in any way in the guidebook; there were no inscriptions or signs in English....
First we had to pass under the stone torii.

Then pass two guards who vaguely resemble lions. Their task is simple - to scare away evil spirits from the sanctuary. Left guard.

And right.

The sanctuary itself is extremely small. Thousands of others like him are scattered throughout Japan.

Ten meters behind the sanctuary I found a lawn on which various sized Buddhas were seated.
Moreover, only one Buddha was cleared of moss.


The rest were such a sight.

More.

Behind the backs of the saints stood lingams - phallic symbols... "Lingam (Sanskrit) is a phallic symbol in Hinduism, a symbol of the god Shiva." (c) Wikipedia.

Walking further down the street, I came across the Episcopal Church.

On the other side of the road ran the local river - Daiya - gawa.


In 767, the monk Shodo arrived at the site of present-day Nikko.

On the top of the local mountain Nantai, Shodo wanted to build a temple, but the Daiyagawa stream blocked the way for him and his ten students. The flow was strong, there was no bridge at that time. Shodo began to pray, and his prayers were answered by God, who threw two snakes across the river - red and blue. Wild sedge sprouted from the bodies of the snakes and Shodo was able to cross to the other side. The bridge in its current form was built in 1636.


The name of the bridge was Yamasuge - no - Jabashi (Bridge of Snakes with Wild Sedges). Except for major religious holidays, only the shogun and his retinue were allowed to cross the river on this bridge. There was a large stone in front of the bridge, forcing the rider to dismount before entering the bridge.
The bridge railings are decorated with gilded metal parts. The bridge is 27 meters long, 6 meters wide and 16 meters above the surface of the water, supported by stone pillars on both banks.
Currently, anyone can get on the bridge by paying 300 yen. However, it is still not possible to cross from bank to bank, since one end adjacent to the road is closed.
The bridge is not illuminated at night, or I was just unlucky that day.

After visiting the Sacred Bridge Shinkyo Bridge, you can climb the steps to the top, away from the road. This is where the Japanese proverb comes in: “Don’t say anything is beautiful until you have seen Nikko.”
So, several dozen gentle steps lead to the Rinnoji Temple. At a separate ticket office, I bought a combination ticket for 1000 yen, which gives the right to explore the above-mentioned temple, the Toshogu temple complex, the Futarasan temple and the Taiyuin mausoleum.
Nikko was first mentioned in 782, when the monk Shodo, discussed below, founded the first monastery in these places. For many years, novices and sages searched here for the path to salvation in solitude and peace.
Japan as a state was united by the great shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa. He put an end to the bloody feuds of the large feudal daimyos that were draining the country. At the end of his life, Tokugawa bequeathed to bury himself in Nikko. Descendants built a magnificent mausoleum for the Great Shogun. Thus, the Toshogu Shrine became both a sacred and secular monument. Work on the construction of the memorial complex lasted 17 months (from November 1634 to April 1636). Only the best Japanese craftsmen of that time took part in the construction and decoration.
First, let's take a look at the small garden of Shoyo-en, which is located exactly opposite the main building of the Rinnoji building.


The garden is Zen-like minimalist. Of course, a pond is an integral part of a Japanese garden.

In the middle of the pond there is a small island with a stone pagoda.




In front of Rinnoji. You can leave your lit incense sticks here before proceeding to the temple.


Rinnoji Temple.

The great hall of Sanbutsu-do contains gilded Buddhist statues. Filming is strictly prohibited, as advertised. The Hall of the Three Buddhas is located in Rinnoji. Three-meter statues of saints of the Buddhist pantheon Buddha Amida-Nyorai, thousand-armed Kanon, Boton-Kannon sit on pedestals in the form of lotus petals.
Rinnoji.

Let's go from Rinnoji Temple to Toshogu Shrine.
A wide road leads to stone torii.

The thorium is 9 meters high and 3.6 meters wide. Installed in 1618. These are the largest torii made of stone.

To the left of the torii there is a five-story pagoda, about 35 meters high. Do not be surprised that a Shinto temple contains a similar detail from a Buddhist temple, for Shinto and Buddhism in Japan are closely intertwined.

We pass a votor with guards - devas...


Further, opposite each other, there are two very interesting buildings. Here's one of them.

It's bigger...


The main decorative element is the wooden relief "Elephants". Carved according to original drawings by master Kano. It is believed that the ears and tails of animals are especially realistically carved.

And opposite is the building of the Sacred Stable of the sacred horse. I don’t know if it’s sacred or not, but there really is a white horse in the stable. There is a sign asking people not to photograph the animal with flash. The building itself is the only structure of the entire ensemble that is not varnished.


The stable is decorated with the famous image of three monkeys: “I hear nothing, I say nothing, I see nothing.”


Actually, these three monkeys are Nikko’s calling card. Nearby there is another relief with monkeys, but it has not achieved such fame. Why monkeys, you ask? In medieval Japan, it was believed that monkeys were able to protect horses from diseases. Therefore, the walls of the Sacred Stable are decorated with wood carvings on the themes of various events from the life of monkeys.


Next we pass by a sacred spring. Here you should wash your hands and rinse your mouth with water as a sign of ritual cleansing from worldly filth.


Every Japanese sanctuary has an indispensable attribute - a bell. This is how he is in Toshogu.

To the left and right of the path there are these powerful stone lanterns, abundantly overgrown with moss. The centuries-old forest surrounding it gives Toshogu a special charm. Unfortunately, photographs cannot convey either the smell of wood or the sight of mighty cedars.


We pass under the second torii, made of bronze. Their height is six meters.

Twin towers. Shoro.....

.... and Koro. On the right and on the left hand.

And now we come to Yomei-mon Gate ("Gate of Sunlight")

More....

View from the inside....


The lighting that day wasn't great, but Yomei-mon Gate is number one in the entire Toshogu Shrine. The gate also has a second name - Higurashinomon ("Gate of Twilight"): visitors can linger for the whole day until they realize that it is dusk. Here masterpieces of one type of fine art are superimposed on the amazing achievements of another. Craftsmen brought the walls to life with more than 300 images of lions and tigers, kirins and dragons, as well as Chinese sages. Let's take a closer look at the work of carvers.....





























"Guards" on the outside of the gate....

And from the inside...



Now our path lies to the grave of Ieyasu himself. You will have to pay a little extra, about 400 yen, since the combined ticket is no longer valid. The side passage is decorated with the “Sleeping Cat” relief, no less famous than the “Three Monkeys”, masterfully carved from wood.


A sleeping cat personifies the inadmissibility of any external stimuli that could disturb the peace of divine spirits. Although the animal is dormant among the blooming peonies, this does not prevent it from religiously fulfilling its duties - mice have never been observed in the temple. The authorship of this “Sleeping Cat” belongs to the famous Japanese master Jingoro Hidari.
Now we climb two hundred stone steps and pass several gates to find ourselves in front of the small Hodo Pagoda, made of bronze.

Right there....

More...


Now let's go back down.... This sanctuary contains three small shrines, which are removed from it twice a year during religious holidays.


The rest of the time they are hidden from prying eyes.

You need at least three hours to visit Toshogu Shrine, but you can hang out there for longer. Daylight hours are short in autumn, so it was time to move on.
Futarasan is the oldest shrine in Nikko, although you can’t tell from its appearance.
Torii in front of the shrine.

There are two main rooms: smaller...


And more. You can enter here by first removing your shoes.


On the territory of Futarasan there are miniature idols of the patrons of health, luck, knowledge and family well-being

But in general, Futarasan is not as interesting as Toshogu, which is why there are many fewer tourists here.
I left through other torii, running down the stairs.

Dusk began to fall. It's time to hurry to the Taiyuin Mausoleum.
In Taiyuin lies Iemitsu, the founder of Toshogu, the third shogun and grandson of Ieyasu Tokugawa. Entrance gate of the mausoleum.

Indispensable "guards" on both sides.


And from the inside....



Like Toshogu, Taiyuin must be gradually ascended along a wide staircase. To the right and left there are towers a la Toshogu. One of them.

The mausoleum is surrounded by dense ancient forest. The silence was broken only by the singing of the cicadas. We pass another entrance, more magnificent than the previous one.


A couple more guards


Taiyuin's main building.


Wooden figures, gilding.


Lanterns on the territory of the mausoleum.




There are many interesting buildings on the rectangular territory.


And the next "guards". If you gather everyone, you get a whole platoon.


When descending, on the right side, a side entrance, lanterns and a path were discovered. But the gates were closed.


When I went downstairs it was dusk. The employees did not allow anyone else into Taiyuin. In general, when planning visits to many sites in Japan (temples, shrines...), you should remember that they are open from 9-00 to 16-00, maximum until 17-00.
As I already wrote, Nikko is a small town. There is no evening entertainment. Therefore, I still decided not to return to the hotel (only 17-00!) But to go to Lake Chuzenji
The bus arrived after 20 minutes of waiting. It was not close to go. First we drove out of the city, then began to strain ourselves up a mountain covered with dense forest along a winding road. It got completely dark. Fog began to fall to the ground in a dense veil. The bus, going through turns, climbed higher and higher up the mountain.

Suddenly I saw through the window a man sitting in the middle of the road. The driver made a gentle turn and went around the obstacle. At that moment I was almost visited by Saint Kondraty..., however, what was sitting on the road was not a man at all, but for some reason a rather large monkey that had come out of the forest. Phew! It's gone! The monkey looked at the bus with a thoughtful look, but continued to sit on the road.

Finally we arrived at the final station Chuzenji-onsen. This is where real hardship overtook me... Near the lake there is either a village or some kind of town. Why am I speaking so hesitantly, because when I got off the bus, I dived into the fog, which hung over the ground like a thick, damp blanket, starting from my knees. Visibility was 5-10 meters, no more. THERE WAS NOT A SOUL AROUND! Now imagine: twilight, whitish fog, deathly silence, the waves of the lake splashing in the distance and no one around. The atmosphere was something between "Silent Hill" and "The Living Dead". Only rare lanterns glowed as whitish, blurry spots, and the glowing windows of houses could be seen in the fog. The fog could be cut with a knife, it was so dense. After wandering around the area for about 20 minutes and trying not to lose the bus station as a landmark, I finally decided to leave this uncomfortable place.

In general, in the middle of autumn, one day on Nikko is not enough, in my opinion. Natural beauties including the lake, Kegon waterfall, rivers, gorges, plateaus and hot springs - all of this was 90% out of the picture. But, never mind - there will be a reason to come back here again.
So I consoled myself while eating tuna sushi in the evening in one of the few restaurants in the city.

Tomorrow I had to go to Kyoto.

Not far from the Japanese capital (140 km), the wonderful city of Nikko is located. The city is protected on all sides by high mountain ranges. Their beauty and grandeur delight and enchant both local residents and visitors to the city. Nikko is a world-famous pilgrimage center. On its territory there are a large number of ancient sanctuaries and temples.

Historical information

After numerous bloody battles, the great Emperor Tokugawa became the ruler of Japan. He became the founder of the first shogunate. A majestic temple was built on the site of Nikko. It was the most luxurious and rich temple in Japan. Its walls were made of large gold plates, and the roof was painted with red varnish. Gradually, an entire city was built around the temple, which began to be called Nikko.

In the 17th century (1616), the ancestor of the great Tokugawa clan, Ieyasu, died in Nikko. Subsequently, he was ranked among the saints, and some Japanese perceived him as God himself. A year after his death, Ieyasu's ashes were brought to Nikko. A huge Toshogu complex was built here, where its former ruler was buried.

Attractions Nikko

Holy places of Nikko

The symbol of the city is the world-famous Toshogu complex of temples and shrines. In order to get to the complex, tourists and pilgrims have to cross the beautiful red-varnished Cinque Bridge. Its length reaches 28 meters. The bridge rises like a rainbow over Japan's sacred Daiya River.

Tosho-gu - Shinto shrine

After crossing the bridge, visitors enter the sacred world of Toshogu. Climbing a steep stone staircase, the wonderful Buddhist temple of Rinnoji opens up in front of them.

The temple consists of several spacious halls. Sanbutsudo is the central hall of Rinnoji. Its interior is decorated in bright colors. There are black, scarlet and green colors. In the center of the hall sit three golden Buddha statues. Amida - the central Buddha statue embodies the god who leads all Buddhists to heaven. To Amida's right is the Thousand-Armed Senju, known as the Goddess of Mercy. And on the left side sits the patroness of all animals - Bato-Kannon.

The next stop on the Rinnoji tour is the small Gotendo Temple. Within its walls, believers offer their prayers to Buddha. Next, visitors enter the spacious residence of the abbot.

In order to get to the main Toshogu shrine, you need to climb a small hill, walking along a beautiful picturesque alley. On the way to the shrine, you can admire the ancient monument dedicated to Matsudaira (the right hand of Tokugawa Ieyasu) and the magnificent garden. At the top of the hill, tourists are greeted by an ancient pagoda made of five tiers. The 12 signs of the eastern zodiac decorate the walls of the pagoda.

After climbing a small stone staircase, visitors find themselves at the huge gate of the Toshogu complex. Menacing mythological monsters guard the entrance to the temple complex. After passing through the main gate, tourists find themselves in a spacious courtyard. There is a small stable here dedicated to the white horse Toseg. Not far from the stables there is a unique library of sacred sutras. Numerous religious books are kept within its walls. This is the only place where visitors are not allowed.

Having crossed the first courtyard, tourists find themselves between two magnificent buildings. On the right side of the courtyard there is a bell tower, and on the left side tourists can see a wonderful drum tower.

Not far from the tower is Yakushi-do, an ancient Buddhist temple. Before visiting the temple, tourists have to go through a huge gate made of two tiers. The Yakushi-do Gate is a true work of art. They are mounted on beautiful carved columns. Fairytale dragons, lions, tigers and phoenixes decorate the gates.

After passing through the gate, visitors find themselves in front of the sacred repository. Ancient religious relics are kept within its walls. Not far from the storage facility there is a small building. Various religious festivals and ceremonies are held inside.

After visiting Yakushi-do, visitors find themselves in front of a beautiful gate dedicated to the sleeping cat. From here, you can climb a steep stone staircase to the burial place of the great Tokugawa Ieyasu. There is a picturesque forest of cedar trees around the burial site.

Not far from the Toshogu complex, there is another Nikko shrine - Futarasan. This is an old Shinto shrine. Futarasan was built at the very top of a once active volcano.

And in the western part of the temple is the ancient mausoleum of Dayu-in. It is nestled on the slope of a low picturesque hill. You can reach Dayu-in by one of three stone stairs.

Nikko National City Park is of great interest to tourists. The park occupies a huge area. It surprises and delights with the variety of landscapes. The mountainous terrain is home to picturesque lakes, dizzying waterfalls and mighty forests. The park is beautiful both in winter and during the flowering period. Within the park there is Lake Chuzenji, formed as a result of a volcanic eruption. Several sacred complexes were built here, surprising with their original architecture.

Other city attractions

Another beautiful place in Nikko is the city botanical garden. On its territory there is a huge collection of various plant species. Magnificent greenhouses and colorful flower beds are located throughout the garden.

Nikko Edomura Amusement Park is another place worth visiting for city visitors. An ancient Japanese village opens up for tourists to see. Ancient houses, spacious squares, an ancient theater and several workshops can be seen in the village. Walking along the village streets you can meet “locals” in traditional national costumes. You can witness, and perhaps even take part in, numerous festivals and shows in the amusement park.

Luxurious restaurants and cozy cafes in Nikko offer tourists to enjoy national Japanese cuisine.

“Don’t say anything is beautiful until you’ve seen Nikko,” that’s what they say in Japan about this city.

The town of Nikko is located 130 km from Tokyo. The main attraction is the Toshogu Shinto Shrine, the resting place of the great commander and statesman Shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa. The complex consists of several temples. Honden is the main hall of the sanctuary, where the spirit of Ieyasu Tokugawa is in eternal peace, the bronze Hodo Pagoda, under the arches of which the ashes of the commander are kept, the Rinnoji Temple, which is considered the largest wooden structure in Nikko. It is in this temple that the famous Hall of the Three Buddhas is located. Three-meter statues of saints of the Buddhist pantheon - Buddha Amida-Nyorai, thousand-armed Kannon, Boton-Kannon - sit on pedestals in the form of lotus petals.

Nikko is also a national park. Lake Chuzenji and the magnificent view of one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Japan, Kegon, will leave an indelible impression on your visit.

While in Nikko, you can visit the Edo-Mura (Edo Village) open-air museum. You will get acquainted with the living conditions of princes and samurai of the Middle Ages. The ninja house, where exhibition fights of representatives of this once popular profession in Japan are held, and the stage area where Kabuki theater actors perform, do not leave either children or adults indifferent.

NIKKO- a small town (20 thousand inhabitants), located 130 km northeast of, and at the same time - a famous national natural park, occupying a huge territory (1402 thousand sq. km) and distinguished by unique landscapes and landscapes. This is a mountainous country with the majestic snowy peak of Nantaisan and Lake Chuzenji, from which the waterfall originates Kegon.

Nikko gained its fame back in the 8th century, when the monk Shodo (735-817), a supporter of ascetic ways of improving the spirit, settled here. At that time, this area still remained a corner of wild, undeveloped nature, and it took the monk a lot of strength and perseverance to find a worthy place for the future temple. Noticing five-colored clouds on the top of Mount Nantaisan, the monk took this as an indication from the gods. But his path to the top was blocked by the stormy mountain river Daiyagawa. Shodo turned to the gods for help, and they sent the monk two sacred snakes - red and blue, which, intertwined over the water, formed a bridge leading to the other shore. It is difficult to say how much this legend reflects actual history, but the first real bridge was built here only in 1636, when in these places the construction of religious buildings associated with perpetuating the memory of Ieyasu Tokugawa - one of the brightest figures of Japanese - was already in full swing. history. The bridge was named Shinkyo - Sacred Bridge in memory of the miracle of the monk Shodo. This structure is a wooden humpbacked bridge, painted red, 28 m long and 7 m wide, resting on two stone foundations in the form of temple gate arches (torii).

It has not been possible to preserve it intact since the Middle Ages. At the very beginning of the 20th century, Dayagawa, swollen after prolonged rains, demolished the bridge, but it was soon restored, maintaining its original appearance. At first, only relatives of the great shogun buried here and special envoys from the emperor could use the Sacred Bridge. After the end of World War II, the rules were relaxed, and the soles of ordinary Japanese shuffled across the boards of Shinkyo, but only on special temple holidays, when magnificent processions began to cross the river across the bridge. On normal days, you can use the bridge for a fee.
At the exit from the bridge, visitors are greeted by a monument to Prince Masatsuna Matsudaira, through whose efforts the temple complex was erected and magnificent alleys of cryptomeria stretching for 40 km were planted, which have survived to this day. From here, stone steps will lead the visitor to the top of the hill, where world-famous temples were erected.

Numerous Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines have been created here over the centuries on the slopes of high hills and on mountain tops. Here is also the tomb of the great shogun - Tokugawa Ieyasu - and the Toshogu temple complex dedicated to his memory.

Toshogu Temple Complex

TO Toshogu leads to the Omotesando road. Before reaching the gate of the shrine, you can visit the Rinnoji Temple, which belongs to the Tendaishu Buddhist sect. In the past, only men belonging to the imperial family became abbots of this temple. Its main hall, Sanbutsudo (Hall of the Three Buddhas), is considered the largest wooden structure in Nikko. Inside are three three-meter-tall statues of saints of the Buddhist pantheon, seated on lotus petals. In the center is Buddha Amida-Nyorai, on the right is the thousand-armed Kannon (in fact, the statue has 40 arms, but each of them is endowed with the ability to satisfy 25 sorrows), and on the left is Bato-Kannon, the patroness of animals, as recalled by the head of a horse embedded in forehead of the statue.

Toshogu Shrine- the resting place of the great commander and statesman, shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa (1543-1616), who at the turn of the 17th century managed not only to seize supreme power in Japan, but also to put an end to the bloody civil strife that was draining the country. The shogun had to make a lot of efforts to bleed the large feudal daimyos eager for power. And his desire to have a magnificent tomb in Nikko, as they say, was dictated not so much by a love of luxury, but by concern for how, after death, not to allow the local princes to throw off the reins of central power. By the will of the dying shogun, all daimyo were obliged to take an active part in the construction of Ieyasu’s tomb. Legend has it that work on the construction of the memorial complex lasted two decades. In fact, construction lasted only 17 months (from November 1634 to April 1636). About 9 thousand people were employed daily in the construction of the complex, and everything required 4,541,230 man-days. The best artists and craftsmen were gathered from all over the country.

To get to the memorial territory, you need to pass under a granite gate 9 meters high. Immediately at the entrance stands a five-tiered pagoda, decorated with the Tokugawa family coat of arms (three mallow leaves) and the signs of the Zodiac. Each of the tiers symbolizes one of the basic elements of existence - wind, water, earth, fire and sky. A huge log hangs from the third floor on ropes, the pendulum vibrations of which during earthquakes and storms allow the 35-meter tower to remain stable.

Next to the wall lies a huge boulder called the Silly Stone. It received such a derogatory name because the builders never figured out how to apply it to their work.

The road then passes under the Outer Nyomon Gate, guarded by the figures of the two Deva Kings, and passes ancient storehouses that house festive props for the annual ceremonial processions held on May 18th and October 17th, and the only unvarnished building within Toshogu. - Sacred stables. Shinto shrines usually kept a horse that the deity would “ride.” The artistic decoration of the walls of this seemingly purely service building leaves no one indifferent. The fact is that in medieval Japan it was believed that monkeys were able to protect horses from diseases. Therefore, the walls of the Sacred Stable are richly decorated with wood carvings on themes of various events from the life of monkeys, but very edifying for people. One of the panels depicts three monkeys in a characteristic pose - “see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil.”

Next, pilgrims pass under the second gate, made of bronze. Their height is 6 meters. The bases of the two columns are made in the form of lotus petals. Here you should wash your hands and rinse your mouths with water from a sacred spring as a sign of ritual cleansing from worldly filth.

Next to the spring is the Sacred Library, where thousands of volumes of Buddhist sutras were kept in a revolving bookcase.

A truly unique structure in Toshogu that you can spend a lot of time exploring, Yomeimon (Gate of Sunlight). It is not for nothing that the gate has a second name - Higurashinomon - Gate of Twilight: visitors can linger for the whole day until they realize that twilight has come. Here masterpieces of one type of fine art are superimposed on the amazing achievements of another. Magnificent in terms of architecture, it is no less amazing with its external decor. Craftsmen brought the walls to life with more than 300 images of lions and tigers, kirins and dragons, and Chinese sages, interspersed with intricate geometric patterns. The work of the carvers was so amazing that one of the rear columns is deliberately decorated with carvings made as if upside down. This is not a mistake. The craftsmen wanted their work to be admired by the gods themselves from heaven. Yomeimon is considered a national treasure.

Previously, visitors of lower ranks were only allowed to approach the shrine as far as the Yomeimon Gate. Further, only noble pilgrims were allowed in, leaving their weapons at the gate.

To get to the temple itself, you need to pass through one more gate - Karamon (Chinese Gate), equally magnificently decorated with images of flowers and dragons. Here you will have to take off your shoes (this is a mandatory condition for temple visitors) and refrain from taking photographs.

After going up and down a few steps and walking through a long corridor, you will find yourself in front of the entrance to the Honden (Main Hall of the Shrine). Its doors are usually closed to visitors, because there is the Gokuden altar, where the deified spirits of great statesmen rest Japan Ieyasu Tokugawa, Hideyoshi Toyotomi and Yoritomo Minamoto, who played important roles in the formation of the Japanese state. The spirits of Hideyoshi and Minamoto, although considered less significant deities in the Shinto pantheon, were “relocated” to the shrine to accompany the main deity (the influence of the Buddhist triad image is evident). The room can only be opened by the High Priest on the occasion of a religious ceremony. Many masterpieces of fine art made by outstanding masters of the country are collected here.

The sanctuary is connected to the chapel by a low passage. On her steps are five trays of food and two bottles of sake rice wine. The priests bring them to Ieyasu every morning and take them away in the evening.

The undesirability of any external stimuli that can disturb the peace of divine spirits is also evidenced by the image of a sleeping cat (Nemurineko) above the side passage. Although the animal is dormant among the blooming peonies, this does not prevent it from religiously fulfilling its duties - mice have never been observed in the temple. The authorship of this bas-relief is said to belong to the famous Japanese sculptor Jingoro Hidari. His real last name was Itami. But he allegedly received the nickname Hidari (left) after one of his competitors, out of envy, cut off the master’s right hand. Therefore, the master sculpted the sleeping cat for the Toshogu Temple with his left hand. However, both the sculptor himself and the stories that happened to him are rather mythological.

Entering the courtyard, climbing 200 stone steps and passing through several gates, you will find yourself in front of the small bronze Hodo Pagoda. This is where the ashes of Ieyasu Tokugawa are kept. Perhaps you will notice that the grave of an outstanding warrior and statesman is decorated much more modestly than Honden, where his spirit rests. There is nothing strange about this. The spirit of the deceased becomes "kami" - a deity, and the grave is only a place for burying the ashes of a mortal person.

Having completed his earthly journey, Ieyasu Tokugawa received a magnificent posthumous name - Tosho Daigongen (Great reincarnation of Buddha Yakushi-Nyorai, illuminating the East). Accordingly, the architectural style in which the temple and mausoleum in Nikko were made has since been called gongen-zukuri. Subsequent shoguns of the Tokugawa clan introduced into the tradition an annual pilgrimage, accompanied by a large retinue, to the tomb of their valiant ancestor, just as members of the Imperial House had anciently visited the Ise Shrine, dedicated to their ancestor, the Sun Goddess Amaterasu. Later, local daimyo began to erect miniature temples and mausoleums in memory of the glorious shogun in their domains, also called Toshogu. In total, more than a hundred of them were built throughout the country. On May 18 and October 17, temple festivals are celebrated throughout Toshogu with impressive parades of hundreds of people dressed in samurai and daimyo garb from the shogunate.

Daiyuinbyo Temple

A short walk from Tokugawa Ieyasu's grave is the Daiyuinbyo Temple with the mausoleum of his grandson Iemitsu. Unlike Ieyasu, the grandson was not deified in the Shinto pantheon, so the mausoleum is not called a shrine. It is somewhat more modest in scale, but made in the same gongen-zukuri style, lavishly decorated with gold, wood carvings, and sculptural images. Although Daiyuinbyo is a Shinto temple, one can easily detect the presence of gods and symbols of the Buddhist pantheon in it. The decor is dominated by Chinese motifs - with kirins, lions, tigers, dragons and flowers.

Futarasan Temple

You can end your tour of the temple complex in Nikko with an acquaintance with the Futarasan Jinja Temple. It is the oldest building in Nikko, dating back to 1617. For many years the temple belonged to the Shugendo sect, which sought ways to save the soul through the asceticism of mountain hermits. Over time, the temple grew, and its individual buildings were scattered around Nikko. During the Yayoi Matsuri holiday (April 13-17), ritual kagura dance performances are held on the territory of Futarasan Jinja. But if desired, any pilgrim can order the performance of the kagura dance on other days for a reasonable fee. Futarasan Shrine reflects the idea of ​​Shinto nature worship.

Lake Chuzenji and Kegon Falls

From the temple area or from Nikko Train Station, you can take a bus to Lake Chuzenji in a few minutes. The stop is called Chuzenji onsen. An entire tourist area has been created here with countless souvenir shops, restaurants, yacht clubs and even hot spring baths.

The road leads down a slope called Iroha-zaka. I, ro, ha are the first three letters of the Japanese alphabet, which has only 48 characters. The road making a serpentine descent to the lake makes the same number of turns. The shores of Lake Chuzenji are especially beautiful in early spring, when the surrounding mountains are covered in a pale pink mist of cherry blossoms, or in October, when the reddening leaves of the maples make you believe that the surrounding forests have been engulfed in a raging fire. A boat regularly departs from the pier, transporting those wishing to the other side in 20 minutes and 510 yen. However, the hiking here is also great. Just a five-minute walk from Chuzenji Onsen offers magnificent views of one of Japan's most beautiful waterfalls - Kegon. Its height is 97 meters. For a thrilling experience, you can use a lift for 530 yen, which allows you to watch the cascading streams of water. The fullest period is from April to November. During the dry season, the falling stream may dry up, although there is a whole system of pumping water through an underground pipe. Kegon is an equally impressive sight in harsh winters, when its streams freeze into icy flows and cascades.

You can also admire magnificent views of the surrounding area from above - from the cabins of the cable cars that climb the Chanokidaira and Akechidaira mountains. In the National Park there is a magnificent Botanical Garden, 10 minutes by bus from the city station, where more than 2 thousand species of alpine plants are collected.

People come to Nikko to admire flowers at all times of the year. At the very end of winter, not far from the wooden structure of the ancient Ritsuin Temple, Japanese plum trees are the first to bloom. In mid-April, the plum tree is replaced by cherry blossoms. Here, near Ritsuin, there are also 200-year-old cherry trees. Their flowers have a peculiar golden hue. This is a special, rare type of sakura - Kongosakura.

Many people come to Nikko in the fall to witness the beauty of the flaming maple foliage. The custom of admiring the scarlet leaves of maples, momijigari, dates back to the autumn harvest festival. Once upon a time, after the harvest, villagers gathered together, danced in circles, decorated each other with wreaths of scarlet leaves, and cleaned their houses with maple branches. At these celebrations, songs were written about the beauty of nature and love.

In the celebrations, festivals and crowded processions held annually in Nikko, one can observe the same syncretism of Japanese religious ideas, the close interweaving of Buddhism, Shintoism, ancestor worship, and sometimes even more ancient beliefs. One of the most grandiose celebrations of Toshogu Shrine is the Sennin-gyoretsu festival ("Procession of a thousand people"), which has been held in Nikko annually on May 17-18 for more than 350 years, starting in 1617.

Nikko is also crowded in early August, when thousands of pilgrims in white robes, simple straw hats and sandals go up to Lake Chuzenji to bathe in its cold waters and visit the Buddhist temples located along its shores. On the night of August 3, large groups of people with staffs and torches in their hands climb to the sacred peak of Mount Nantaisan to worship the shrines, where they meet the sunrise.

After visiting Nikko, you can spend an hour or two at the Edo-mura (Edo Village) open-air museum. Here you can get acquainted with the living conditions of princes and samurai of the Middle Ages. The number of attractions includes the so-called. The House of the Ninja, where spectators regularly host exhibition fights of representatives of this once popular profession in Japan - spies and secret assassins. Within the museum there is a stage area where Kabuki theater actors perform classical plays.

“Don’t say anything is beautiful until you have seen Nikko,” says an old Japanese proverb.

Nikko temples and shrines are open:
April-October daily from 08:00-17:00 (in winter until 16:00).
Admission is paid (you can buy tickets to each temple, but it is much cheaper to buy a single ticket, which gives the right to visit all attractions, with the exception of Nemuri-Neki(Sleeping cat).

Nikko Tourist Information Center: 81 0288/53-3795. Located at the station.
How to get there: Take the Tobu Nikko Line train from Tobu Asakusa Station. By express the journey will take 2 hours, and by fast train (kaisoku) 15 minutes longer, but the ticket is half the price. If you have a single JR ticket, you can use the services of this train company, but it is slower and less convenient. You take the Tohoku Shinkansen at Ueno Station and at Utsumomiya Station transfer to the hourly train to Nikko..

A couple of hours drive from Tokyo, in Tochigi Prefecture, is the city of Nikko. Picturesque mountains, several famous waterfalls, mountain rivers and streams, hiking trails, onsen and a huge number of temples and Shinto shrines - this is what tourists come to Nikko for.

The Japanese say: "Don't tell kekko until you've seen Nikko!". That is, don't think you know anything about real beauty until you've visited the Japanese city of Nikko.

Nikko City (日光) in Japan - a center of tourism and religious pilgrimage among Japanese and travelers to the Land of the Rising Sun. Nikko is part of the national park.

If you have already searched the Internet for reviews about where to go for a weekend from, then you have probably heard about the city of Nikko.
It is best to go to Nikko with an overnight stay. The journey from Tokyo will take several hours, and Nikko has many ryokans and onsen, which will allow you to get to know Japanese culture better. And even without ryokans, there is plenty to do in Nikko :)

How to get to Nikko

How to get to Nikko from Tokyo?

01 Fastest option:
JR Lines and Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo/Ueno Station. The journey to Nikko takes an hour and a half and costs about 6,000 yen one way (with a transfer at Utsunomiya). Suitable for those who have money and want to go to Nikko for one day, without an overnight stay.
Travel on JR lines is included in the price of the JR pass.

02 Intermediate option:
The high-speed train takes a little longer to reach Nikko. rapid train. Travels from Asakusa to Tobu Nikko station (this is the Tobu railway carrier). Depending on the train, a ticket to Nikko costs 2300 - 2800 yen, without transfers.

03 The most economical and slow option:
Local trains, or trains. 3-4 transfers, changing trains (everything is within one platform, so there is no need to run anywhere). Some trains have seats facing other passengers, like a subway, while other trains have more comfortable seats (compartments). The journey will cost approximately 1300 yen one way.

For a trip to Nikko it is convenient to purchase Nikko City Area Pass. It costs about two and a half thousand yen. The pass is valid for two days. The price includes round trip travel on local trains and a bus around Nikko City Area.

Please note: Nikko, Tobu Nikko train stations, major temples and shrines, including Toshogu, Rinnoji and others are included in the Nikko City Area. Lake Chuzenji, Kegon Waterfall, and onsen no longer belong to the city, but to the Nikko Area.

The road from Tokyo to Nikko is quite scenic. The route passes through Tokyo, Saitama and Tochigi prefectures, where Nikko is located. Japanese villages and endless rice fields flash by on both sides.

If you take the Toby railway line in Tokyo, you will arrive at Tobu Nikko Station. If you travel to Nikko by Shinkansen, then the final stop is Nikko JR Station.

Nikko city

The first thing you should pay attention to is that Nikko is located in the mountains. Therefore, even in summer it will be cool here, especially in the evening.

Square in front of Tobu Nikko Station:

There is a bus stop in the square in front of Nikko Station. There are rows of shops with souvenirs and omiyage, small cafes and restaurants.

There is one famous shop at Tobu Nikko Station. In Nikko you should definitely try the popular ones in Japan manjuu buns(まんじゅう), but not easy, but with you.

Yuba(ゆば) is a famous Japanese product. Yuba is a film formed during the cooking process of tofu, in other words, tofu skin. It sounds unappealing, but Japanese yuba is quite tasty and healthy.
In Nikko, yuba is especially popular, it is a local dish that people are very proud of :) In Nikko, yuba is used to make everything you want - baked goods and burgers, and simply eaten, soaked and even dried.
This is the establishment:

And here is the bun itself. It is deep-fried, with anko and yuba bean paste inside, and sprinkled with salt crystals on the outside - this is the specialty of this establishment. We highly recommend trying it! There is always a queue of several people behind them.

From the station we walk to the hotel in Nikko:

Souvenirs from Nikko. In addition to yubas, all sorts of cute Japanese things are sold here - chopsticks, sake cups, and so on.

There are a variety of hotels and guesthouses in Nikko. There are also traditional Japanese hotels - ryokans. Almost every hotel has a small beautiful Japanese-style garden.

Hotel prices in Nikko start at an average of 10,000 yen per night for a basic hotel/guesthouse.

The main reason why tourists come to Nikko is the temples and Shinto shrines. Nikko's temples are of the greatest cultural and historical significance, with over a hundred cultural sites located within their grounds and surrounded by beautiful cedar forests.
The Nikko temple complex is included in the UNESCO Golden Fund. Keep in mind that Nikko temples close at 5 pm and their splendor can only be admired from the outside.

In front of the entrance to Nikko Park is the famous Shinkyo sacred bridge(神橋), covered with red varnish:

During the day you can climb the bridge for 300 yen. But it’s much more pleasant to admire this Nikko landmark from the outside.

The wide Omotesando road leads to the temples and shrines of Nikko:

The first temple on Nikko's treasure list is Rinnoji(輪王寺). Only men from the imperial family could become abbots of this temple.
The main building of the temple is currently being restored and will be closed from the eyes of tourists for a long time - until 2021.

We wandered around Rinnoji for a while in the setting sun.

From Rinnoji Temple you can climb along Omotesando to the main attraction of Nikko - Toshogu Temple(日光東照宮). If you walk under the giant stone torii, you will see the ticket booths.

An entire alley of stone Japanese lanterns is a very picturesque place:

The further you move from the city, the simpler and friendlier people become.
When, among the temples in Nikko, we looked with curiosity into the windows of one closed restaurant, a Japanese grandfather came up to us and treated us to such cookies with custard. He didn’t want us to go hungry :)
These are Japanese cookies taiyaki(鯛焼き) in the shape of a fish.

In our culture, it is common to think that you should not eat food from the hands of strangers. But in Japan everything is different. Friendly locals can often treat you to food. If you are accepting a treat, be sure to remember bow politely as a sign of gratitude.

Most restaurants in Nikko are located around the station. Let's take a look at one of them :)
A truly Japanese format - visitors do not sit in a common room, but in an individual booth with a TV, a tablet used to place an order, and a button to call the waiter.

We ordered yakitori, chicken with kimchi.

More details about the variety of Japanese food:

The first day in Nikko is over! Hurry up to the hotel to gain strength for tomorrow.

It was decided to devote the second day in Nikko to hiking and walking around the surrounding area, since there are many opportunities for this in Nikko.
One of the must-see attractions in Nikko is: Jizo Valley(or Kanmangafuchi Abyss).

To get to Jizo Valley, you need to cross a picturesque raging river via the 日光大日橋 (Dainichi or Sunlight Bridge) bridge.

Fishermen stand on the rocks below:

Turning left from the bridge, you will see the small Shinto shrine Nukazukainari Shrine. Like any Shinto shrine, it is easily identified by its red torii gate.

An alley of stone statues of Jizo stretches along the river.

Jizo are Buddhist saints, patrons of children and travelers. Buddhism and Shintoism are closely intertwined in Japan, and Jizo statues can be found in almost all temples and holy places in Japan.

Jizo is highly revered by the Japanese. They help children who died at a young age, or were not born and did not have time to do enough good deeds, which means they will go to hell. Jizdo protect children in hell from evil demons by hiding them on their sleeves.
Many of the statues have completely fallen apart and are covered with green fluffy moss. Despite this, they are also entitled to a cap.

Jizo wears red caps and aprons, symbolizing the request to protect the souls of dead children.

Jizo statues are placed not only near temples, but also along roads or in cemeteries. There are especially many of them in the Jizo Valley in Nikko. Rumor has it that some of the statues are ghosts, and if you try to count them, nothing will work.

Along the Jizo Valley in Nikko the river flows more violently. There are still many fishermen who fish standing on the rocks.

We leave the Jizo Valley into a small park. The river stretches further to the sacred Shinkyo Bridge.

A little more Jizo from Nikko:

Tourists coming from the center of Nikko, from the sacred bridge to the Jizo Valley, are greeted by this sign. This is the name of the picturesque gorge with fishermen.

The river bed is widening here. Very beautiful! The water is clean, clean.

Well, we are in a hurry to leave this enchanted and beautiful place: we need to make it to another attraction of Nikko - the Kirifuri Waterfall.

Waterfall Kirifuri(霧降の滝) - literally "misty waterfall", so named because of the fine mist of water it raises into the air, is located on the hill of Kirifuri kogen. This is no longer the city of Nikko, but Nikko Area, so the city pass does not work here.

Kirifuri Falls (over 70 meters high) is a great opportunity to experience one of Nikko's waterfalls if you don't want to travel far.

Important! There is no hiking trail to Kirifuri Falls in Nikko. You will have to go to the waterfall partly through the city, partly along the highway (only two lanes, but the side of the road is quite narrow).
You can get to Kirifuri by bus from Nikko from either of the two stations in Nikko for 300 yen.

From Tobu Nikko Station to Kirifuri Waterfall it takes about 40 minutes to walk up the hill.

And finally, Kirifuri Falls in Nikko:

There is no fog at all. They say that on some days there is so much fog that the waterfall is not visible at all from the observation deck :)

The best time to visit the mountains in Japan from an aesthetic point of view is autumn. The trees are painted in a vibrant palette of orange, red, green and yellow and it looks amazing.

After visiting Kirifuri Falls in Nikko, we took a bus down to Tobu-Nikko Station to return to .

Any good trip should end with a good lunch! A trip to Nikko is no exception :)
There is a great tradition in Japan: eating lunch on the train. bento. Japanese bento comes in many varieties and includes all sorts of seasonal and regional features. This bento was purchased at Nikko Station - in the center right you can see the yuba, local food from Nikko.