Karelia is not only a land beautiful nature but also ancient legends. Leaving the island of Honkasalo, we headed across the Honkasalonselkä strait to the island of Orjatsaari.

Near Orjatsaari there is a small Kaarnetsaari island, which means "Raven Island" in Finnish. It is famous for two natural attractions. First - Mount Aino, one of highest points Ladoga skerries, from where you can see the Valaam Monastery and hear the bells. Second - rock "Raven Gate", which is cut by a huge crack littered with stone blocks.

Rock "Crow's Gate"

The Crow Gate rock is located on the side facing the island of Orjatsaari.

Rocks of the Raven Gate

A sad legend is associated with this rock, described in the Karelian-Finnish epic Kalevala. Aino (“The Only One”) is a collective image of a girl who was married to the unloved and preferred death. In the Kalevala, she is described as the sister of the arrogant and cocky Laplander Joukahainen from Pohjola. Jukahainen decided to compete with the old rune-singer Väinemöinen from Kalevala. But is it possible to win in singing Väinämöinen himself! And the old man sang a prophetic rune, from which the impudent Laplander plunged into the ground.

Said young Joukahainen:
“Oh you, wise Väinämöinen!
Eternal soothsayer!
Turn back the spell
Leave my life dear
Let me out of here!
Tightened the swamp of my legs,
The sand hurts my eyes!
If you take the spell
You turn back your evil conspiracy,
I will give you a sister, Aino,
Daughter of a beloved mother.
Let your home sweep
Keeps the floors clean
There will be tubs to wash and soar,
Will wash your clothes
Weave golden blankets
Bake honey cakes.

Aino's mother was overjoyed when she heard the news. Marrying her daughter to Väinämöinen was her secret dream. Aino, not wanting to marry an old man, ran away from home to a distant sea to hide from her unloved one.

There was a cracked cliff,
He shone in the distant sea
And a girl swims towards him,
Strives to reach the rock.
But as soon as I stepped there,
I wanted to take a rest
On cracked stone
On a rock gleaming in the sea
How suddenly a stone fell into the water,
That rock at the bottom of the sea,
And with that stone and the girl,
With that huge block of Aino.

After falling off a cliff into the sea, Aino turned into a fish. Her tears made the sea salty. Väinämöinen, who blamed himself for the girl's death, went fishing, but she constantly slipped out of the singer's hands, never giving in to him. Väinämöinen suffered for a long time, the beautiful land of Kalevala no longer pleased him. On the advice of his mother, he went to the country of the North, Pohyolu, to marry the beautiful Maiden of the North, the daughter of the evil old woman Loukha, the mistress of Pohyoly. Louhi agreed to the marriage, but on the condition that Väinämöinen forge the magical Sampo windmill for her. However, this is another story, which you can read about in the article.

The Raven Gate is a cone-shaped rock that has moved away from the island of Kaarnetsaari as a result of a strong earthquake that occurred several thousand years ago. A cave is hidden inside the blockage of stones. They say that in the 16th century, the local population hid in it from the Swedes, and in the 18th century, young people took refuge from military service.

"Raven Gate"

It is said that many people died at the Raven Gate. Someone, inspired by the example of Aino, threw himself into the water from a height because of unhappy love. And others fell down due to their own stupidity. What kind of inscriptions on the rock - only God knows. Maybe just autographs. Or maybe the names of the dead.

Nicholas Roerich visited the island of Kaarnetsaari several times. Here he painted his painting "Forthcoming" ("Stylites").

Nicholas Roerich "Ecstasy". 1918. Tempera on canvas 151x118 cm. Located in Brandeis University, Rose Art Museum. USA. Waltham. In the catalog of paintings by N.K. Roerich, Bendyurin V., the name “Upcoming (Stylites)” is indicated. Bottom left monogram: 19 РНХ 18.

November 21, 2010. Three-day visit in late autumn, day one.
Route: Petrozavodsk - Lyaskelya village - Ladoga skerries, Pellotsaari island.

The eve of the day of my trips always comes at the wrong time, like snow on my head, although usually the dates of the expeditions are planned ahead of time, and the year is scheduled for winter.
Say: "What do you think - you got together and waved at nature. You live in Karelia, it's within easy reach of the forest!"
That's how it is, but Petrozavodsk, in pursuit of megacities, is covered with an insurmountable barrier - a cap of city fuss. As soon as you are about to emerge from the city swamp, and then you immediately catch unexpected calls and new offers in addition to yesterday's imperfections and, of course, knit long-term relationships (I'm talking about work).
Every time, again and again, you need to puff, strain, to break loose, leave and finally feel the euphoria of the road holiday on the way.

At the end of November, those very favorable conditions developed - for several days it had been freezing for ten, large lakes in southern Karelia they were still without ice, and it was dangerous to go out on small forest lamps, but in the forests the snow painted the graphics of early winter - beautifully.
Somehow on the coast of Ladoga ?! In any way it can be - big water cools for a long time ...
And most importantly - the feeling of freedom! - I handed over the main "tails" to publishing houses, completed a six-month epic - shooting-processing for a thick tome about the bankers of Karelia, and in October I compiled a book report on the expedition of the republican branch of the Russian Geographical Society by the deadline.
I figured, calculated - I manage to drive to the open air without absenteeism at the Academy of Photography, the period of the trip just fit between the lectures that I have weekly on Fridays and Tuesdays. If only it didn’t blow out before a specific storm on the way back from the Ladoga Islands. Internet forecasters of various persuasions from day to day promised clear skies with light winds from our northern directions to Russia. Not all the same sticky West sniff.
I went to the bus station and bought a bus ticket.
It’s out of date to push ahead at the checkout window, ask what’s up with the schedule, and is it true that tomorrow the minibus will go to the village of Lyaskelya? You could call and find out, or go online to the station's website, but that's it! - analog relationships feel more reliable. I guess I'm old-fashioned - I beat my legs for a smile.
Of course, we phoned Slavik. Twice I already visited him on the island of Pellotsari in May, I was called for the summer, but there was no time ... - and now, finally, I got ready. It seemed like what? - four hours by minibus to Lyaskel, they will meet you there, take you by car in the village of Hiidenselkä to the shore of Ladoga, and there will be a boat. Half an hour and we are on the island. Such plans...

Everything came together - and the ticket was bought, and I was among the eight passengers. "Minibus" in winter version turned out to be a full-weight bus and started from Petrozavodsk on time, at eight in the morning, but with a peculiarity - entering the city of Pitkyaranta - this is a loop for about forty minutes to the direct route. In November, the day in the world is short, and I have few "free" days of those days - I have a lot of plans ... and I felt like a "cut-down vacationer".
It was confirmed by the clock - in Lyaskelya, on the square near the new bridge, where regular buses picket border guards, we ended up in the afternoon. Verification of documents is a confirmation of formal adaptation in society ... That's right. I went out into the air.

A grandfather called me at a shabby passenger car, said what his name was, and that Vyacheslav asked him: “He said - I need to meet a friend - that is, you. Don't ask about the price ... don't offer money - and I won't take it, we don't live for money. I myself am from Sortavala, but I have a house in Hiidenselkä, in Soviet terms - Lesozavod, a little ten kilometers along the road.
In a village at the mouth of the Janis River, at a collapsed pier, a red PVC Corsair with a forty-horsepower engine was moored, and here Vyacheslav and a girl were waiting for me, dressed in snowmobile combi sets, but without helmets, but in hats with earflaps.
We greeted, Slavik nodded at the girl, they say, Vita - local, get acquainted - she asked for an excursion to the lake. By the evening we will return it to the village, but now hold on - the water splashes and freezes in flight.
I turned on the jeep, grumbled - the light was left for three hours, will we have time somewhere? .. Slavik promised to immediately taxi to the “Aino rock”, but for now a few words along the banks.

We passed near the ribs of the skeleton of the barge: “It was the Valaam monks who put the scow aground a few years ago... They came for hay, but those were still sailors... Look what was left after the storms. It seems that the locals here in the winter fussed too ... "
Black grouse sat on the birch trees rising from the water either to the old Finnish fields, or to modern conflagrations. Twenty-seven birds were counted. It was heard behind the engine as Slava clicked: “Here they are, my dears!” I yelled: “Do not turn off the engine !!!” - and managed to take a few shots on the go.
In places there was already ice in the still water between the islands. So, centimeter foam, but we are almost on rubber ... Then - a circle, another circle around its axis - the wave breaks the ice crust, then slowly ...
... One of the straits I would call "Muskrat Channel". On the right, on the left, at a distance of fifty meters, one after another, their fodder huts stick out everywhere. In a narrow place, the coastal reeds almost closed their yellow canvases, and our red boat rustled along the drive ice on the stems, squeezed through to the exit from the muskrat kingdom and jumped out into the wide water ... The ice swayed on the reeds, as if seeing them off - the skerries ended, to the south hundreds of kilometers of open lake.
We turned east. Again the narrow strait, the granite shores of Oryatsari... A turn, a sheer cliff on the right: “Oh, neotectonics! Aino Rock!!!"

Yes, if the first bride of the legendary Väinemöinen was supposed to drown herself, then only here. It is immediately obvious and any bride knows - the place is wonderful: severe, strict, beautiful. I found out, I saw these cliffs in other people's pictures - at the photographer Juha Taskinen and in travel reports kayakers. Yep, let's meet now.

The echo multiplies the quiet sobs of the motor, and we slide smoothly along the shore. Islands of amphibolite and gray granite, broken by veins of calcite, I know this, and have seen it more than once, but now this firmament is covered with snow. Rocky cornices cry with meter-long icicles, ferns in the crevices. Some kind of Woodsia, oh!
A huge piece of rock broke off and now stands next to the island's massif - the Rock of Love, Aino Rock, that's what the locals call it, and that's how it has become entrenched in the blogosphere. That is the north-eastern side of the island of Cornetsari, on fine long summer days, the sun, probably, looks here only in the mornings and at sunset. In addition to the mythological, there is also a real history of the life of people in the area and on the islands, which was especially active in the 19th and the first half of the 20th century: here the quarry, fishing and rural craft of peasants, farms, schools on the islands ... There were visits of Finnish officials and rulers, local the inhabitants met them at Kornetsaari and caps in the air...
A whitish stripe indicates how the water level has fallen this year, almost a meter compared to May. A little higher than the flood line, tourist tourists marked their presence and musical tastes with paint, even higher, on the main granite wall, with a fair amount of imagination, you can see anthropomorphic figures if you look from the water. But not always, only in the world and not everyone sees this. For example, a woman seemed to me - such a worthy one, with a sovereign face.
... Slippery, cool: the guys helped me climb the mountain - they dragged the wardrobe trunk.
Here are the views! However, it is dark: the sensitivity in the camera is raised above the limit of landscape decency, I don’t have a tripod with me, but I also need to shoot - when I can do it again.
Below, a boat buzzed - hunters appeared in the strait, maybe inspectors from the GIMS, the Ministry of Emergency Situations, and other security officials ... They passed the rock, but returned - they noticed an empty boat moored at the rock. We yell at them from above, from forty meters, that everything is in order - go your own way! .. It seems they understood, but they circle in disbelief ... they soon leave. But we have already almost descended from the cliff - it's time, our maiden-Vita also needs to get to the mainland.

We make a semicircle to the northeast, half an hour open lake and now - we are moored at the barge of the Pellotsari pier. Slava Chistyakov, who in his jeep past bore the proud name of Tank, lives and rules here.
We were greeted by a good cat Vaska. We have known each other since May, we saw each other on the deck, while still being a small kitten, he chose the mooring bay under the couch. They brought Vaska from the mainland in the spring of this year - in the berthing facilities, how can it be without a pet?! I look now - I grew up, cat! And the moorings seemed to have aged for half a year, turned white - covered with hoarfrost.
The breeze intensified, between the robes on the waves rustling ice. We went under the roof ... Vyacheslav started the generator, turned on the light, put the kettle on. It became clear how dark it was outside.
Maiden Vita looked inquiringly: “Slava, how can we go to the shore? On the lake - gouge out your eye! “But we won’t go anywhere ... we’ll send you! .. It’s okay to worry - Sergeyich is driving past us from the fields, he will pick you up. Get ready, phoned already. So, that's it - I'll go to Sortavala tomorrow, on business, and you, Igor, will stay on the island. Find something to do. And you, Vita, call when you go ashore!

The cat lay down at my feet. I turned off the jeepiesque, tomorrow's walking tracks around the island were very familiar to me.

Mouth of the Janis River. Ellings and moorings.

An interestingly shaped zoomorph, view from the north-east. Aino rock on a neighboring island.

Among the numerous lakes and dense forests of central Karelia, the mysterious mountain Vottovaara was lost. Due to its remoteness, it is not included in the list of popular tourist routes, but every year those wishing to visit this unique place become more and more.

Many consider her one of the most mystical places Russia.

1. The most optimal way here from St. Petersburg lies there through Murmanka, but we are not looking for easy ways, so we went along Sortavala - stopping on the way to Ruskeala. It's hard to count how many times I've been to the marble quarry.

Panorama of 8 vertical frames.

2. After turning to Suojärvi, the asphalt ended, which meant that almost half of the way would have to go on the dirt road. Toivola, Lahkolampi, Porosozero - the road is getting worse ... After long hours of travel, and here it is - the treasured sign of "Gimola". The name of this village is probably known to all the people who visited Vottovaara.

3. This is the base camp for tourists staying in this Karelian wilderness. Further, on the way to the mountain settlements will not, and we still have to go 15 kilometers to the mountain, and another 20 - on the way to its top.

Having driven a couple of kilometers from the village, the dirt road ends and the forest road begins. Branches shuffle around the car, stones fly out from under the wheels, and it’s scary to drive into some puddles at all - the “real” road begins!

4. Some specimens of mushrooms could be cut without leaving the car, simply by opening the door. Some stood right on the road, others on the side of the road, and entire families hid in the bushes.

6. I hardly understood how we managed to overcome the last 30 kilometers. The steep ascents and descents with huge boulders were especially impressive. I simply did not dare to climb into the last swamp. Not everyone will climb there even on a prepared car. Those who traveled there traveled in pairs.

As a result, we found a small clearing, where we pitched a tent.

8. In such conditions, without a normal map and compass, it is not difficult to get lost.

9. Mount Vottovaara in Karelia is 417 meters high and is famous for its futuristic landscapes with rocks, rocks and bizarrely shaped dead trees.

10. Many consider it one of the most mystical places in Russia, a place of power. Some even call her mysterious ancient civilization- Hyperborea.

11. At its top, on an area of ​​about six square kilometers, there are about 1600 stones (seids) laid in a certain mysterious order - a large number of megaliths, shrines, altars, a stone pool and a 13-step staircase to heaven.

Vottovaara is also called the Karelian "Stonehedge" (listed world heritage stone megalithic structure in Wiltshire, England).

12. Opinions of scientists about the occurrence of this natural monument divided. Some suggest that this is an ancient cult complex, others believe that these are traces of glaciers and earthquakes. Superstitious people consider Mount Vottovaara in Karelia to be a place of concentration of evil forces and a bridge to another world. According to psychics, this place has a high energy.

13. Of course, I don’t know what kind of glacier can carve steps to the stones, split the rocks perfectly evenly, and what kind of earthquake can put a huge boulder (seid) on a few small pebbles ... But in any case, this place is amazing and bewitching ...

14. The next day the clouds did not recede. We decided to move our camp lower, located at the foot of the mountain on the shore of a lake with crystal clear turquoise water of Lake Metsavelijärvi.

15. In the evening it was decided to try to climb the top of Vottovaara again.

16. A miracle happened, and at some point the clouds parted. Well, how can you not believe in the magic of the mountain? From the top, magnificent views opened up for tens of kilometers around. There was an opportunity to see the stone sights.

17. This is the lake "Eye" in the center of the amphitheater.

18. Geologists drilled its bottom and took soil samples. The analysis showed the presence of a thick layer of phosphorus formed over a limited period of time. Perhaps these are traces of ancient sacrifices.

19. A pool of regular rectangular shape, behind which large stones are located on inclined slabs.

20. The altar is one of the main props of the cult complex. From somewhere grew in the middle of the swamp.

21. Unfortunately, I didn’t manage to get to the stairs, because in a matter of moments another “fog cloud” flew over the mountain. I had to go down.

22. Mount Vottovaara in Karelia is covered with many legends and rumors. Someone here saw UFOs, ghosts, heard strange sounds. Watches stopped for someone, electronic equipment failed, health problems arose.

24. I didn’t notice anything like that, but visiting this place will definitely be remembered for a long time for its unique atmosphere and extraordinary landscapes. I hope to be back there...

In 2015, this route became the winner of the All-Russian tourist award "Route of the Year": 1st place in the nomination "The Best Sports Route of Russia" and TOP-5 audience sympathies! We invite you to a stunningly beautiful route along the Northern Priladozhye! locals call these places "Finnish Crimea". You will see the Ladoga Skerries - an amazing world of rocky bays and narrow straits. During the 9-day trip, learn how to steer a kayak, feel the charm of hiking exotics, take a steam bath in the "tourist bath", see many interesting architectural and historical objects and just relax!

TOUR PROGRAM:
1. Water crossings on double kayaks on Lake Ladoga between its islands. It is possible to board a third person - a child.
2. Visit Mount Linnamäki, inspection of the fortress walls of the settlement - the shelter of the ancient Karelians dating back to the 10-12th century;
3. Visit the remains of a Finnish school dating back to the 19th century, (laying of hewn stone walls, a story about the life of Finnish farms, “a school of Finnish saboteurs”
4. Visiting fortifications of 30-40s(unique structures for guns, dugouts, etc., made of stones and cut into the rocks), a photo session on a rocky shore with the opportunity to see “stone veins”, “dragon's backbone”, “road to paradise”, etc., predator plant - sundew, rare mosses and lichens.
5. Visiting the monument to the sailors of the Ladoga Flotilla, which organized the evacuation of Soviet troops from Rautalahti Bay in August 1941.

8. Excursion to the cross Valaam Monastery - living evidence of the belonging of the lands to the monastery, redeemed under Abbot Gabriel in 1899.
9. Climbing to the observation point about. Suri-Kheposari- photo session on the background of the Valaam archipelago.
10. Visiting Mount Aino on about. Carnetsari(Mountain of Desires - 15 years ago a stone tour was laid, connected with the legend from "Kalevala" and the fulfillment of desires, now tourists come for the sake of desires, seismic dislocation (they were painted by N.K. Roerich - "Cliff")
11. Excursion to Riutavuori- the view from this mountain was depicted on the banknote of 500 Finnish marks

12. Excursion to Vyakhtimaki- Dozornaya (Roof of Ladoga - 82 m above sea level), the whole of Ladoga is at a glance, the road to the mountain leads through an old forest, reminiscent of the scenery of films of Roma's fairy tales - the forest of Baba Yaga, goblin, a lambushka with white water lilies.
13. Excursion to the island of Tamkhanka - lake. hilconlampAnd- a key lake with warm and clear water, rocks for lovers of diving called Mermaid by tourists for the opportunity to swim without swimsuits.
14. Excursion to the island of Valaam, Ruskeala marble canyon (extra charge) or other excursion program

TOUR SCHEDULE:

1 day ( Approximately 30 hours on the road
6:00 Departure of the group from Perm from Lenina street 53 (Drama theater)

2 day (1 day in Karelia)
14-00 Estimated time of departure of the group from Petrozavodsk
Transfer - Petrozavodsk - Meyeri village - 260 km
18-30 Arrival in Meyeri village, accommodation in the field camp. In the rented "Finnish dacha" there is a dining room, a sauna, sleeping places for 10-12 people (mansard).
Dinner, safety briefing, sauna, evening tea.
Dating evening, information on the route.
Overnight stay in 2-3 local tents on the glade. Those who wish to visit the "Finnish dacha" (for an additional fee).

3 day(2 day in Karelia)
Breakfast
Gathering and packing equipment
Meieri crossing - Palosarenselka avenue - Vitta avenue - hall. Rautalahti hotels - 6 km
Dinner
Excursion program according to weather conditions
- visit to Linnamäki mountain,
- visit the remains of a Finnish school dating back to the 19th century
Crossing the Rautalahti bay - Hasiansalmi avenue - about. Sammatsari -9 km
afternoon tea
Visiting fortifications of 30-40s
You can spend a relaxation session at the "end of the world."
Dinner
Fishing, recreation

Day 4(3 day in Karelia)
Breakfast
Crossing Sammatsari island - Rakhkasari island - 5 km
Lunch on the sandy beach, crystal clear, delicious spring.
Visiting the monument to the sailors of the Ladoga Flotilla
An observation point for organizing a photo session of the Ladoga Islands.
Crossing Rakhkasari Island - Mikonsari Island - 9 km
afternoon tea
Excursion walk to the "golden beaches" ( sandy beaches about 1 km long, swimming, volleyball, recreation)
Dinner
Evening rest, fishing

Day 5(4 days in Karelia)
Daytime
Breakfast
Excursion to the island of Putsaari - visit to the Skete of St. Sergius of the Valaam Monastery 12 km
Walk along the rocks polished by the glacier, where you can take rare shots.
Dinner
Tourist sauna - heater (on the whole route it is possible to organize a mobile sauna at the request of the group)
Dinner
Evening of rest, fishing,

Day 6(5 day in Karelia)
Daytime. Breakfast.
Preparation of the bath, a walk through the island labyrinths, fishing, photo session. Dinner.
Tourist sauna - heater (on the whole route it is possible to organize a mobile sauna at the request of the group). Dinner. Evening of rest.

Day 7(6 day in Karelia)
Breakfast
Crossing the island of Mikonsari - the island of Sammatsari - 16 km
Lunch en route
afternoon tea
Excursion to the cross of the Valaam Monastery
Climbing to the observation point about. Suri-Kheposari-photoshoot on the background of the Valaam archipelago.
Dinner
Fishing, evening rest.

Day 8(7 day in Karelia)
Breakfast
Transition about. Sammatsari - Honkasalo island - 8 km
Dinner
Visiting the viewpoints of the island, which is the most beautiful "skerry" corner Lake Ladoga, the most popular natural object Finnish excursion route 20-40 years of the 20th century.
On these shores in 1917-18, N.K. Roerich created his paintings “Sketch of two islands”, “Order”
Transition about. Honkasalo - about. Oryatsari hotels - 4 km
afternoon tea.
Visiting Mount Aino on about. Carnetsari
Since 2015, the crevice in the rock, where tourists liked to take pictures, has been occupied by a beaver family.
Dinner.

Day 9(8 day in Karelia)
Breakfast
Transition about. Oryatsari - Heikurisensari Island - 8 km
Excursion:
- on Riutavuori
- in Vyakhtimyaki
Trek - Heikurisensari Island - Havus Island - 7 km
Dinner

Day 10(9 day in Karelia)
Breakfast
Excursion to o.Tamkhanka-oz. Hilconlampy
Dinner
Crossing o.Havus - Meyeri - 6 km
Accommodation in the field camp
Excursion to the island of Valaam
Sauna
Dinner
Summing up, presentation of commemorative medals, farewell party

Day 11(10 day in Karelia)
Breakfast. Departure by bus to Petrozavodsk (260 km).
At 14.00 Estimated time of departure of the group to Perm

day 12
22:00 Estimated time of the group's return to Perm

ATTENTION! It is possible to change the route thread (according to weather conditions) in compliance with all declared services.

PROMOTION PRICE EARLY BOOKING 30 DAYS BEFORE DEPARTURE IN 2017 (DISCOUNT UP TO 7%):
Adults: 29650 RUB/person
Children and pensioners: 28650 rubles/person

COST OF THE TOUR LESS THAN 30 DAYS BEFORE DEPARTURE:
Adults: 31850 RUB/person
Children and pensioners: 30850 rubles/person

INCLUDED IN THE PRICE: transport according to the tour program; 4 meals a day (except last day): tea, coffee, cheese, raw smoked sausage, fresh vegetables and fruits, herbs, soups, cereals and pasta dishes with stew, confectionery, smoked fish and other delicacies; equipment rental: 2-seater kayaks (possible to board a third person - a child), life jackets, dry packs, sleeping bags with liners, heat-insulating mats, 2-3-person tents, tableware; rental of equipment for general use (chainsaw, group tents, oil lamp, campfire equipment, camping bath), work of instructors, travel insurance.

ADDITIONAL EXPENSES:
1. Meals on the go
2. Souvenirs