A. and

30.01.2022

Tire is a Lebanese city founded in the third millennium BC by the Phoenicians. Located near the Israeli border, 20 km. The area is under close surveillance by Israeli troops, but if the situation is calm, then there is no reason for concern or fear before visiting the city.

Initially, Tire consisted of two parts, one of which was an island. Alexander the Great connected the island to the mainland by building roads using stones from the old city.

Tire was founded in 2750 BC, according to Herodotus, and the name Tire does not appear on monuments until 1300 BC. The inscriptions tell of the coast, the sea, the mainland, and the influence of Tire on neighboring lands.

The commerce of the ancient world was centered around Tyre. The merchants of Tire were the first in the Mediterranean to open sea trade routes, and founded colonies in northern Africa, Sicily, Corsica and other places. Tire was attacked by Shalmaneser V, then by Nebuchadnezzar (586-573 BC).

Tire is the mother of the Phoenician peoples. One legend tells about the founding of the city. The appearance of Tire is associated with the Phoenician god Melqart, who was the son of the goddess Astarte. According to legend, it was at the birthplace of Melqart that the ancient Phoenician city was founded. The same legend says that even before the first settlement appeared on the site of Tyre, this small piece of land moved freely across the Mediterranean Sea. Later, by order of Melkar, they found the place where he was born and sacrificed an eagle; when the blood of a majestic bird fell on the rocks of the island, the island stopped at a distance of about 800 meters from the shore. In the 28th century BC, the inhabitants of the town built a temple in honor of Melqart, in gratitude for this he allowed the townspeople to colonize a fairly large area of ​​​​the coast mediterranean sea. In front of the entrance to the temple there were two columns made of pure gold, each 9 meters high. People walked around the temple territory barefoot; a ritual of sacrifice took place here every day, which was accompanied by dancing.

In the 6th century BC, Tyre was destroyed by the army of Nebuchadnezzar, but the conquerors did not achieve their goal, they wanted to get gold and jewelry, and most of the inhabitants managed to collect all their property with them and move to an island near Tyre. A new shooting gallery was built there. The mainland, next to which these two islands were located, was for them protection from storms. In the 9th century BC. The islands were connected by an isthmus to the mainland by order of King Hiram, thereby forming an artificial cape. During the time of Alexander the Great, the isthmus was destroyed, and in its place a pier was built, which was much larger than the isthmus. Makedonsky personally poured the first two buckets of sand into the base of the dam. All work on the construction of the dam was carried out manually. Cedar trunks brought from the mountains of Lebanon were driven into the bottom of the sea, and residents were forced to demolish their houses to fully provide them with building materials. Thus, the island eventually turned into a peninsula. By the way, it is worth noting that Tire is the only city that did not surrender to Alexander the Great without a fight; the inhabitants preferred a bloody war to a humiliating peace and fought as best they could for the honor of their hometown. Some details of the battles and examples of heroic deeds of the inhabitants that have survived to this day are known. When the ships of Alexander the Great anchored, thereby blocking the harbor, the inhabitants of Tire swam to them and cut the anchor ropes. After this incident, by order of Alexander the Great, the ropes on all ships were replaced anchor chains. The siege lasted seven months, after which Alexander the Great seized power into his own hands. A significant part of the population of Tire was killed, and those who managed to survive were soon sold into slavery. It was during the reign of Alexander the Great that Lebanese cedar became rare tree, this was caused by the fact that Alexander, in addition to building the dam, also used cedar in the manufacture of ships; cedar forests were massively cut down. During Phoenician times, Tire was famous for its glass and textiles. The traders of Tire carried out a peaceful expansion of the Mediterranean in order to find sources of raw materials and markets for their products. It was Tire that was the first city where they began to use money - minted coins. The development of the city was influenced by Phenicia. The shooting range developed quite quickly. A number of naval expeditions across the Mediterranean began from Tire, including to Spain and beyond Gibraltar. In the 18th century, the city became one of the most important suppliers of building materials along the entire Mediterranean coast. At different times the city was in power different countries and rulers, experienced many events, in memory of which interesting monuments, temples, ruins, etc. remained.

Tire is also an important religious center; it was here that the first Christian communities appeared. The city is also mentioned in the Bible as one of the places where Jesus Christ visited; here he performed his first miracle.
Since 1979, Tire has been protected by UNESCO as a city classified as a world treasure.
Now the old part of Tire is located on the peninsula, and the new one is on the mainland. There are few hotels in the city (about 2-3), but tourists do not have problems with accommodation; there is enough room for everyone. Prices for hotel rooms are quite reasonable.

Tourists are mainly attracted by the ruins of Tire from the Roman Empire. The Roman road leading to the Arc de Triomphe, which in Roman times was the entrance to the city, has been perfectly preserved to this day. On both sides of the road along the entire route there are many sarcophagi carved from stone and marble. And one of the sides of the road is accompanied by an aqueduct.
In the 2nd century A hippodrome was built on the territory of Tire, the ruins of which are well preserved. Every summer the hippodrome hosts an arts festival. During the Roman Empire, the hippodrome accommodated 20,000 spectators and was 480 meters long.

Tire is a city of inexhaustible power and wealth, founded in the third millennium BC by the Phoenicians. Homer called the city the lord of the seas, purple dye was mined here, and one of the largest hippodromes of the ancient world has survived to this day.

In Tyre, it is also worth seeing the Eshmun Palace, the Colosseum, two ports from the time of King Hiram, and the ruins of a Crusader temple.

Perhaps the most colorful part of Tire is the fishing harbor: a quiet pier, an abundance of fishing boats, workshops where these same boats are made using technology that has remained unchanged for several centuries. You can relax in one of the cafes or restaurants located in the harbor.
Walking from the fishing harbor towards the lighthouse, you will see the al-Mina excavations. Be sure to take a walk here and get to know the city as it was many centuries ago. At the entrance there is a large shopping area from the Roman Empire era, passing through the square, on the main street you will see a theater. Water games were once held here. The theater is a rectangular building, the seats are arranged in five tiers, and a system of tanks is placed around the theater. Behind the theater is a sports complex with baths, where wrestlers trained. Very interesting place- Cathedral of the Holy Cross, built in the 12th century. Now all that remains of it are the base of granite columns, and previously the cathedral was the place of coronation of the rulers of the Kingdom of Jerusalem. According to some reports, it is here that the remains of Frederick Barbarossa, an outstanding German emperor, are buried. During the existence of Phenicia, on the site of the Cathedral of the Holy Cross there was a temple of the god Melqart, who was considered the patron saint of Tyre.

Ancient Thira (Tera) is an ancient city located on the steep rocky cape of Mesa Vouno, at an altitude of 396 m above sea level. The city received its name in honor of the mythical ruler of the island of Tiras and was inhabited by Dorians since the 9th century BC. and existed until 726 AD.

The ruins of the ancient city were discovered in 1895 by the German archaeologist Friedrich von Hiller. Systematic excavations were carried out here until 1904 and most of the residential buildings and cemetery of ancient Thira were discovered. Excavations resumed again under the auspices of the Archaeological Society of Athens between 1961 and 1982. Then an ancient necropolis was discovered on the slopes of Sellad.

Most of the ruins of the ancient city date back to the Hellenistic era, but there are also remains of Roman and Byzantine buildings. Of the most important architectural monuments discovered during excavations, it is worth highlighting the ancient Agora, which was located almost in the center of the city. Temples and public buildings were concentrated here. In the southwestern part of the Agora is the Royal Gallery in the Doric style, built during the reign of Julius Caesar (1st century AD). The Temple of Artemis, carved right into the rock (late 4th - early 3rd century BC), is also impressive. Various inscriptions and symbols of the gods (the eagle of Zeus, the lion of Apollo and the dolphins of Poseidon) are carved on the rock. Also discovered on the territory of the ancient city were the temple of Dionysius (3rd century BC) and the sanctuary of Apollo (6th century BC). Of particular interest is the ancient theater, built during the Ptolemaic dynasty (3rd century BC). Initially, the theater had an orchestra pit, due to which, during its reconstruction in the 1st century AD, the stage was enlarged. Also notable are such ancient buildings as the Roman baths, Byzantine walls, the Church of St. Stephen (built on the ruins of the early Christian temple of St. Michael the Archangel) and the Ancient Necropolis.

Archaeological excavations of the ancient settlement were of great historical significance. In addition to beautiful architectural structures, many valuable artifacts were also found that perfectly illustrate the life of the ancient city in its various aspects. Today, the territory of Ancient Thira is open to visitors. After exploring the architectural sights, you can also admire the beautiful panoramic views that open from the top of the cliff.

Tyr ancient Phoenician city state on east coast Mediterranean Sea. Ancient city Tyr was formed in the 3rd millennium BC. Its founders were the Phoenicians. Nowadays, at a distance of 20 kilometers from its outskirts there is the border of Lebanon with Israel. Tire is believed to be the first Phoenician settlement. According to an ancient legend, the city was founded on the area where the god Melqart was born. According to ancient legend, before the settlement of the territory of present Tyre, there was small island, moving freely in the Mediterranean Sea. Over time, an eagle was sacrificed at the birthplace of the Phoenician god. After drops of blood fell on the island, he stopped his movement.

In the 28th century BC, a temple was erected in Tire in honor of Melqart. In front of the entrance there were two columns made of gold. The height of each of them reached 9 meters. Every day in the halls of the temple a ritual of sacrifice was performed, which was accompanied by dancing. Only barefoot people were allowed to walk indoors. In the 6th century BC, the city was captured by the troops of Nebuchadnezzar with the aim of plundering the ancient settlement. But the inhabitants of the city managed to escape to an island located next to Tire, where they built new town under the same name.

In the 9th century BC, the island territories, by order of King Hiram, were connected to the mainland by an isthmus. As a result, an artificial cape was formed. During the period of the conquests of Alexander the Great, the isthmus was destroyed, replacing it with a pier. The great commander himself took part in its construction. It is known that the first two buckets of sand were poured into the base of the dam. All construction work was carried out manually. Due to a lack of raw materials, townspeople were forced to demolish their own homes. Over time, the island turned into a peninsula.

Shooting range - was the only city that did not surrender voluntarily to Alexander the Great. The townspeople bravely fought the enemy who attacked them. The invaders were forced to attack the city for 7 long months. After the capture of Tire, most of the townspeople were destroyed, the survivors were driven into slavery.

In the era of Alexander the Great, Tire was famous for its cedar, which was used for the construction of dams and ships. During Phoenician times, the city was famous for its glass and textile craftsmen. On its territory minted coins began to be used for the first time. Over the entire period of its existence, Tire changed its rulers from different countries more than once. Witnesses of those events are temples, historical monuments and ancient ruins of ancient buildings.

The monograph, based on archaeological and written sources, reconstructs the history of Thira, the social structure and culture of the city, its place among other ancient cities and its role in the life of the tribes of the North-Western Black Sea region for a millennium.

One of the most famous ancient Phoenician cities and one of the largest commercial centers of the Ancient World, the city of Tyre, was founded in the 28th century BC. Currently, this city is known as Sur and is located in modern Lebanon. According to Phoenician legend, the city of Tire was built by the sailor god Usos, who sailed on a log to the island on which he built an altar.

Mentions in ancient sources regarding Tire and its inhabitants can be found in the chronicles of Ancient Egypt, and in other important historical documents of Antiquity. Tyre was originally an important port and trading city that traded with many countries in the region, including Ancient Egypt. Also, the vast majority of Phoenician colonies in the western Mediterranean were colonies of Tire (including Cadiz and Carthage).

The prosperity of Tire constantly aroused the envy of the rulers of powerful empires ancient world, and as a consequence it was constantly besieged by Assyrian, Babylonian, Judean, Persian and Egyptian troops. These constant wars and sieges led to the decline of Tire's power in the region and the weakening of its power in the colonies.

During the rise of Ancient Greece, Tire became an important educational and scientific center, retaining this status during the period ancient rome. Tire also entered the history of Christianity as one of the first Christian cities; The Apostle Paul lived and preached here for a short period of time.

Sources: guide.travel.ru, tochka-na-karte.ru, www.bookarchive.ru, sredizemnomor.ru, interpretive.ru

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Buses from Beirut to Sidon (Saidou) depart from the bus station at Cola intersection, depart when full, usually 5-15 minutes. Ticket price to Sidon is 1000-1500 Lebanese pounds. Travel time is a little over 1 hour.

Sidon (Saida, as the locals call it), the third largest city in Lebanon, is located on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea, 40 km south of Beirut. In ancient times, Sidon was one of the main Phoenician cities and possibly the oldest. Sidon was often conquered and passed from hand to hand: the Assyrians, the Babylonians, the Egyptians, the Greeks and, finally, the Romans. Herod the Great, Saint Paul and Jesus Christ are said to have visited this city. The city was later conquered first by the Arabs and then by the Ottoman Turks.

I read in traveler reports that Sidon is a very pleasant city and many spent even 2-3 days there, but half a day was enough for me to see the most interesting things. I especially liked Old city, which stretches between Sea Castle and St. Louis Castle. The old town is a labyrinth of narrow streets, where life is still in full swing and where it is interesting to walk and you can even get lost. On these streets there are souvenir shops, workshops, mini shops and pastry shops with baked goods prepared according to ancient recipes. There is also a colorful old market (Old Souk) located in the old town. I wandered through these streets for almost two hours.

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On December 4, 1110, Sidon was captured by the crusaders and became the capital of the Seigneury of Sidon, the state of the crusaders. The Arabs, led by Saladin, recaptured the city in 1187, but after another 10 years the German crusaders regained power over the city. Sidon remained an important city for the Crusaders until it was completely destroyed by the Saracens in 1249, and then again by the Mongols (can you imagine where the Mongols got??) in 1260.
In the 13th century, during the reign of the Crusaders in Sidon: on a small island off the coast, the Sea Castle was built, which in our time has become the main attraction of the city. Since then, the castle has been destroyed and restored many times; the castle has survived to this day in a dilapidated state, but tourists can examine it and imagine what it looked like 800 years ago.

12) Sea Castle in Sidon (admission fee, 3000 pounds).

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15) View of the old town from the castle

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After seeing the main attractions in Sidon, I immediately drove further south along the coast to Tire. You can catch a bus almost anywhere on the main road that runs along the coast, I did it right at the Crusader castle. The buses stop themselves and almost all of them go south to Tire or north to Beirut, depending on which side of the road you stand on. The fare costs about 1000 or 1500 pounds. From Sidon to Tire is about 40 km or about an hour by bus.

Tire, or as the locals call it Syr, is one of the oldest Phoenician cities, where the Phoenician “conquest of the Mediterranean” began. Tyre is the birthplace of the legendary Europa, which was abducted from there by Zeus in the form of a bull. This fact alone already shows how rich the historical heritage of this city is. According to Herodotus, Tire as a city appeared in 2750 BC. and in ancient times it was surrounded by huge (46 meters high) walls.
Only Roman ruins have survived to this day, and are now the main attraction of Tyre. The Roman Hippodrome was included in the List in 1984 World Heritage UNESCO number 299.

18) Roman Hippodrome

The Roman Hippodrome is part of an archaeological reserve called Al Bass Archaeological Site. Its territory is very large, you can easily spend a couple of hours walking through the ancient ruins. Entrance to the territory is paid (about 5-6 thousand pounds), but it is definitely worth it, since Al Bass is the second most beautiful and interesting Roman ruins in Lebanon, after Baalbek. The Roman ruins are located a little away from the city center; walking there will take 20-30 minutes, but if you don’t know where they are located exactly, it’s better to take a taxi for 5,000 pounds. In addition to the already mentioned hippodrome, the Arc de Triomphe, a Roman paved road and the Roman Necropolis with a large number of ancient sarcophagi are located on the territory of the reserve. The necropolis is the first thing tourists encounter upon entering.

19) Necropolis and many surviving sarcophagi

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Roman paved road and Arc de Triomphe
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The Roman Hippodrome was built in the 2nd century AD. and could accommodate up to 40 thousand people. The width of the hippodrome is 90 meters and the length is 480.
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Walking through the ancient Roman ruins gives you a strong feeling. You can imagine how at this very hippodrome gladiators once fought and Roman chariots competed for speed, and patricians in white robes sat in the stands. I love places like this.

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40) Roman mosaic

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If you leave the area of ​​the ruins and go to the old town along the sea, you can see another Roman ruins (there is an additional entrance fee of 3,000 pounds). Roman columns go almost into the sea. A picture of a huge Roman (or Greek?) temple right on the shore of the Mediterranean Sea immediately appears in my head.

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Modern Tire (Sur) is the fourth largest country and one of largest cities in southern Lebanon just a couple of tens of kilometers from the Israeli border. Lebanon and Israel are separated by the UN2000 Blue Line demarcation line, which is not an official border. In Tyre, the presence of a huge number of UN soldiers belonging to UNIFIL (The United Nations Interim Force in Lebanon), which were introduced back in 1978, is noticeable. In addition, there are many military checkpoints and individual Hezbollah checkpoints on the roads. Tire is mainly inhabited by Shiites, so the Hezbollah movement is very popular here, their yellow-green flags are hung everywhere. It is in this region that armed conflicts often occur between Hezbollah and Israel, so some kind of tension is constantly felt. But at the same time, the people are quite friendly, they often want to talk, asking where they came from and whether I like me. The most common phrase I heard was “My brother is married to a Russian/Ukrainian woman.”
It was only in Tire that I first began to hear the traditional Arabic greeting Salam Aleikum, unlike, for example, Bshare, where everyone says Bonjour to each other.

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From the square where buses stop and taxi drivers stand, through narrow streets you can go to Thira Beach, where people even come from Beirut to relax, because it is considered one of the cleanest and most beautiful in the country. There are many cozy cafes and restaurants on these streets.

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46) Road along the beach

47) A lighthouse with a gorgeous view of the sunset.

After walking around Tire, already at sunset, I headed back to Beirut.

Other reports from the series traveling around Lebanon.

Tire (properly Tsur, lit. "Rock"), a coastal city-state in Phenicia (modern Sur in Lebanon). According to legend and archaeological data, it was founded around the 28th century. BC e. Proto-Phoenicians-Canaanites (see Canaan). It existed as an independent urban community, later a city-state, where the royal government had to reckon with a strong communal organization. Since ancient times, the city, inaccessible to the enemy who did not have a powerful fleet, consisted of two parts - a settlement on the mainland (Wushu) and an island citadel, where the population took refuge in case of danger. The main center of city life was the temple of the city's patron god Melqart.

Around 1468 Tire was conquered by the pharaoh and entered the Asian territories of Egypt (around 1355-1300 under Hittite influence). Initially inferior to neighboring Sidon, after the defeat of which by the “peoples of the sea” around 1175 (which also caused a massive resettlement of the Sidonians to Tire, so that all southern Phoenicians, including the Tyrians, were subsequently called “Sidonians”; perhaps the newcomers even dominated Tire at first) moved to first plan. In the late 12th and early 11th centuries, Tire carried out the first stage of Phoenician colonization of the Mediterranean [colonies in Spain (Gadir, modern Cadiz), Africa (Utica, Lix), Sicily and some Aegean islands], becoming a Mediterranean maritime power.

Around 1075, Egypt loses power in Asia, and Tire begins an era of independence. By the beginning of the 10th century, the kings of Tire subjugated Sidon, in memory of its power, took the title “kings of the Sidonians” (meaning “all Phoenicians in general”) and controlled all of Southern Phenicia. The greatest prosperity of the Tyro-Sidonian kingdom falls during the reign of Hiram I (969-936), who turned Tire into an impregnable fortress. Hiram strengthened the Mediterranean power of Tyre, bought part of Galilee and included some cities of Cyprus in the Tyrian sphere of influence. The alliance he concluded with Israel, whose king at this time was Solomon, lasted about a century. In the 10th century The shooting gallery turns into the largest shopping mall Mediterranean, living primarily through shipping, piracy and the sale of purple, glass, and slaves. In the 9th century The Phoenicians were driven out of the Aegean by the Greeks. The usurper Itobaal (from 879) strengthened the position of Tire and resumed the colonization of the Western Mediterranean (including Sardinia), where many new Phoenician centers appeared (including Carthage, 823).

In 743, Tire recognized dependence on Assyria (before that, in 876 - about 780 it paid tribute), however, excessive tribute and Assyria’s attempt to tear away all its possessions in Phenicia from Tire (725) led to a war (724-720), as a result of which Eluli of Tire finally recognized Assyrian power, but regained everything lost. A new revolt of Eluli (about 704) ended with the siege of Tire by the Assyrians, the flight of the king overseas and the loss of all Phoenician cities previously subject to Tire (701). After the recognition (about 696) of Assyrian supremacy, Tire rebelled repeatedly, incurring new Assyrian campaigns, and in 644 it was defeated on its mainland by Ashurbanipal. At the turn of the 8th-7th centuries. BC e. lost his overseas possessions (although ideas about the seniority of Tire persisted until the 5th century BC).

Around 630, as a result of the sharp weakening of Assyria in the war with the Scythians, Tire again became a virtually independent city, its merchants controlling the trade routes of the Mediterranean, right up to east-central Asia Minor, southern Arabia, Spain, and perhaps even Britain. However, the invasion of the region by the Egyptians (early 610s) and then the Babylonians (605) put Tire between two fires. Coming out on the Babylonian side and pressed by the Egyptians, Tire went over to the side of the latter (588), but a 13-year siege (about 587-575), organized by the king of Babylon