The highest point of Everest (or Chomolungma) is located at 8848 meters above sea level. Exploration of this mountain peak, located in the Himalayas, began as early as the 1850s, when English surveyors working in India were creating maps. By the way, the name "Everest" was given to the top of the British geographer George Everest, who led one of the first expeditions in that area. In the same period, it was found that Chomolungma is the most high mountain, although specific data on its height were constantly subject to adjustment, being in the range from 8839 meters to 8872.5 meters.

Representatives of the Sherpa people are the most frequent guests of Everest as expedition guides. They also own almost all climbing records. For example, Appa Tenzing has been on top of the world 21 times.

Naturally, such a peak could not but attract the attention of climbers from all over the world. However, many obstacles arose in the way of those wishing to conquer Everest, including a ban on the part of most countries in which there are climbing routes to Chomolungma, for foreigners to visit them.

In addition, a significant difficulty was the problem of breathing on high altitude, since the air there is strong and does not saturate the lungs with oxygen in the required quantities. However, in 1922, the British Finch and Bruce decided to take a supply of oxygen with them, which allowed them to reach an altitude of 8320 meters. In total, about 50 attempts were made to climb, but none of them were successful.

The first conqueror of Everest

In 1953, New Zealand mountaineer Edmund Hillary took part in an expedition by the British Himalayan Committee. At the time, the Nepalese government allowed only one per year, so Hillary gladly accepted, realizing that this was a very rare opportunity. In total, the expedition included more than four hundred people, most of them were porters and guides from the local Sherpa people.

To date, more than four thousand people have conquered Everest, while about two hundred climbers have died on its slopes.

The base camp was set up at an altitude of 7800 meters back in March, but the climbers set out to conquer the summit only in May, having spent two months acclimatizing to high mountain conditions. As a result, Edmund Hillary and Sherpa climber Tenzing Norgay set out on May 28. In one day they reached a height of eight and a half kilometers, where they pitched a tent. The next day at 11:20 the highest peak of the planet was conquered.

The heroes of the expedition were expected to receive worldwide recognition: Queen Elizabeth II of Britain granted Hillary and the head of the expedition, John Hunt, a knighthood, and in 1992 New Zealand issued a five-dollar bill with a portrait of Hillary. Tenzing also received the St. George Medal from the British government. Edmund Hillary died of heart failure in 2008 at the age of 88.

30 years ago, May 4, 1982 the highest peak World Everest (Chomolungma) was first conquered by Soviet climbers - Vladimir Balyberdin and Eduard Myslovsky.

Everest conquered, was a 13-year-old American teenager. Jordan Romero summited Everest on May 22, 2010 with his father and three guides.

Belongs to the Nepalese spiritual teacher Bhakt Kumar Rai. He spent 32 hours on the highest peak in the world, 27 of them in meditation. Bhakta Kumar Rai used the oxygen tank for only 11 hours.

In 2001, the astonishing feat of climbing Everest was accomplished by the blind American Eric Weihenmeier. By that time, he had already conquered all the highest mountain peaks on all seven continents.

In 1992, Frenchman Pierre Tardevel skied down the slope of Everest. He left the southern peak, located at an altitude of 8571 meters, and covered three kilometers in three hours.

In 1998, the Frenchman Cyril Desremo made the first descent from the summit on a snowboard.

In 1988 Frenchman Jean-Marc Bovin made the first paragliding flight from the summit of Everest.

In 1991, four British extreme sportsmen flew over the peak from Nepal to Tibet in two balloons.

In 2001, a French couple, Bertrand and Claire Bernier, flew down from the summit in a tandem glider.

In May 2004, the Italian Angelo D "Arrigo, for the first time in the history of aeronautics, flew a hang glider over the top of Everest.

On May 14, 2005, a helicopter landed for the first time on the summit of Mount Everest. A unique flight was performed by Didier Delsalle, test pilot of Eurocopter, on a serial Eurocopter Ecureuil/AStar AS350 B3 helicopter.

On October 4, 2008, the first ever skydive over Mount Everest was made. The authors of the record were the representative of New Zealand Wendy Smith, Briton Holly Budge and Canadian with British citizenship Neil Jones. Extreme athletes flew about a minute in free fall, jumping out of the plane over Everest at an altitude of about 9 thousand meters.

The idea to conquer the highest mountain first occurred to man, most likely in the deepest antiquity.

But only on May 29, 1953 at 11:30 am, New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay became the first to conquer Everest, a mountain with a height of 8848 meters.

The news became known to the whole world on June 2, the day of the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II, which the British hailed as a good omen for the future of their country.

Everest - the majestic Chomolungma, is located on top of the Great Himalayas in Asia on the border between Nepal and Tibet. In Tibetan, this peak is called Chomolungma, which means "Mother Goddess of the Earth", the English name is given in honor of Sir George Everest, a 19th century British geographer in India. The top of Everest makes up two-thirds of the thickness of the Earth's entire air atmosphere. This is almost the maximum cruising altitude of jet airliners. The oxygen content there is extremely low, and the temperature is very low, the weather is completely unpredictable and very dangerous.

First attempt to climb Everest

The first recorded attempt to summit Everest was made in 1921 by a British expedition that traveled over 400 miles across the Tibetan plateau to get there. A strong storm forced them to interrupt their ascent, but the members of the expedition, among whom was George Lee Mallory, determined the route of the ascent from the north side. When asked by a journalist "Why do you want to climb this mountain?" Mallory joked: "Because it is."

During the second British expedition in 1922, climbers George Finch and Geoffrey Bruce reached a height of 8230 meters. In Mallory's next attempt that same year, seven Sherpa porters died in an avalanche. The tribe of Sherpas, who have long lived in the high-mountainous province of Khumbu, from the first attempts to conquer Everest, assisted in expeditions because of their ability to easily endure high altitudes.

In 1924, on the third British expedition to Everest, Edward Norton reached a height of 8500 meters without the use of oxygen apparatus. After him, Mallory and Andrew Irwin, who went to storm the peaks, climbed to about the same height, but after that no one else saw them alive. In 1999, Mallory's body was found on the slope of Everest. Whether he and Irvine reached the summit or not remains a mystery.

Several similar attempts to reach the summit from the north from Tibet were unsuccessful. After World War II, Tibet was closed to foreigners. In 1949, Nepal opened its doors to the outside world, and in 1950 and 1951 several British expeditions undertook exploratory ascents along the southern route.

In 1952, a member of the Swiss expedition Raymond Lambert and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay reached an altitude of 8600 meters, but were forced to turn back due to stormy winds and severe cooling.

Rise of Hillary and Norgay

Having learned about the advances of the Swiss, the British organized a large expedition in 1953 under the command of Colonel John Hunt. In addition to the best British climbers, the expedition included New Zealanders George Lowe, Edmund Hillary and experienced Sherpa Tenzing Norgay. By the way, they write that Edmund Hillary was not a professional climber, but an ordinary beekeeper.

In April and May, a route was laid through the Khumbu Glacier and through Lhotse along the southern slope. Having prepared several intermediate camps, the expedition began the ascent. The members of the expedition were equipped with special insulated boots and clothing, and also had a walkie-talkie and oxygen apparatus.

On May 26, Charles Evans and Tom Bourdillon made an assault on the summit, but they had to retreat, the summit of Everest remained untouched, due to broken oxygen tanks, they did not reach only 300 feet.

On May 28, Hillary and Norgay tried again. With the help of escorts, they set up a high-altitude camp at 27,900 feet. Having somehow spent the night there, in the morning they set off. At 9 o'clock in the morning they reached the South Summit. Then we spent more than an hour on overcoming the rock that stood in the way.

After that, having crossed the last snowdrifts, at about 11 hours and 30 minutes, the climbers were at the top of the peak. We spent about 15 minutes at the top. Hillary took a picture of Tenzing at the summit, but refused to be photographed himself. Then they started the return descent.

In the upper camp they were met by escorts. After their descent to base camp, John Hunt sent a runner with a message to Namche Bazaar from where a coded message was sent to London.

Who first conquered Everest - Hillary and Norgay?

Until now, there is a debate about who exactly was the first to conquer Everest - Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay.

According to the story of Norgay himself, he was the first to enter the summit Edmund Hillary.

But according to Hillary, they climbed to the top at the same time. However, there is a photograph of Tenzing standing on top of Everest, taken by Edmund.

While there is no such photo of Hillary. According to Norgay, Hillary did not want to be photographed, citing fatigue and the upcoming long descent, which is a bit strange, given all the work and the importance of this event. Which leads to certain thoughts.

Pioneer Award

On June 1, on the eve of her coronation, Queen Elizabeth II learned of this achievement. And the next day, the news spread all over the world. That same year, Hillary and Hunt were knighted by the Queen.

Tenzing was unable to receive a knighthood for political reasons, but instead received the St. George Medal as a reward. So Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay went down in world history as people who conquered the highest mountain in the world.

In 1960, a Chinese expedition was the first to climb Chomolungma from Tibet, and in 1963, James Whittaker became the first American to climb Mount Everest. In 1975, Junko Tabei from Japan became the first woman to reach the summit. Three years later, Reinhold Messner from Italy and Peter Habeler from Austria reached the summit of Everest without oxygen apparatus.

For all the time, almost two hundred climbers died trying to conquer the mountain. The biggest tragedy happened in 1996 when eight climbers from different countries died during a severe storm. But despite all these dangers, Everest still attracts many climbers from all over the world who want to visit the roof of the world. The flow of those going to storm does not decrease.

Everest is the highest peak on Earth. They tried to reach it more than once, but due to the danger of such an event, it ended, as a rule, with the death of the members of the expedition. Yet there was a man who succeeded. Who was the first to conquer Everest? Whoever he was, he was an amazingly brave and strong man. About him, as well as about the difficulties of climbing Everest, you will learn in the article.

Geographic features

The height of the mountain peak, on the way to which several dozen climbers died, is 8,848 meters. It is located in the Himalayas. The fact that it is very cold in the mountains is known even to a child. Here, the average temperature in January is about -36 °C. Everest itself has the shape of a pyramid, its slopes are quite steep. In the south there is almost no snow and firn (dense, recrystallized perennial snow). The strongest winds blow here. Their speed reaches 200 km / h.

For comparison: the strongest wind in Russia over the past century was recorded on Kharlov Island in the Barents Sea. It was February 8, 1986. The wind speed then was 187 km/h. It is impossible to live in such conditions. In 1998, a terrible hurricane happened in Moscow. Eleven people died. About two hundred were injured. The wind speed that day reached 31 m/s or 3.6 km/h.

Let's compare these figures with those recorded on the highest peak of the Earth - 200 km / h. Is it possible for a person to stay here even for a few minutes? Who was the first to conquer Everest? It was probably an extraordinary person with supernatural powers.

Research

As always, it all started with a theoretical study. Indian topographer and mathematician Radhanat Sikdar established where the highest mountain peak is located. This was in the early fifties. There was a scientist in India, 240 km from the subject of his study. A few years later, the geodetic service gave information about the height of Everest. They weren't exactly accurate. According to the conclusion of Indian scientists, the height was 8,839 meters. Perhaps this will not seem so important to a person who is far from science, but the surveyors argued, clarified, and investigated for a long time. Finally, they called the exact figure - 8,848.13 km.

Extreme tourist route

The first people who conquered Everest proved that it is possible to do it and still stay alive. Before they succeeded was recorded many deaths. "Who will be the first to conquer Everest?" - this question haunted climbers for a long time. Each of them wanted to become a pioneer and go down in history.

The first man conquered Everest over sixty years ago. A lot has changed since then. The mountains, of course, stand in the same place and are just as high. But climbing to the top is still dangerous. However, thanks to deep research, experts now know how to do it with less risk to life.

The question of who first conquered Everest has lost its relevance. Now in Himalayan mountains go for thrills. Such an excursion lasts about two months and costs more than 80 thousand dollars. They rise to the top in spring or autumn. At this time of the year, there are no monsoons, that is, steady winds that periodically change their direction.

Tourism infrastructure is developing. In the 21st century, there are more and more people who want to climb the once unattainable peak. Many hours of traffic jams and conflicts between climbers have even been recorded here (almost like on the highways of megacities). Nevertheless, such a journey remains quite dangerous. The most difficult section is the one that is located near Everest. Its length is 300 meters. The climbers nicknamed the last finish line "the longest mile on Earth".

Much depends on the weather and equipment. Before heading to the mountains, tourists are instructed, trained, and prepared for several weeks. Experts possess all this knowledge thanks to the pioneers. Their invaluable experience allows today thousands of people who want to make a journey that was considered deadly even half a century ago.

First attempts

Before Everest was conquered, about 20 expeditions took place. French climbers have reached Annapurna. But from this mountain range the highest peak is still far away. The British managed to achieve a better result a little later - they used oxygen on the way. In the 20s of the last century, more than one climber died here. In 1924, Andrew Irwin and George Mallory made an attempt to summit. The body of the latter was discovered in the late nineties. Perhaps the English climbers managed to reach the summit. At least, this is still being debated to this day.

Among the daredevils there were quite eccentric personalities. So, in 1934, a man without special equipment went to the mountains, believing that supernatural forces would help him achieve his goal. He died, rising to a height of seven kilometers. This man's name was Maurice Wilson. The conquest of the highest mountain peak took place 20 years after his death. And it ended successfully. So, who conquered Everest first in the world?

Edmund Hillary

He did not have supernatural powers, he was an ordinary person. Edmund Hillary was born in 1919. I have been interested in mountaineering since childhood. Edmund made his first ascent at the age of 20. As a child, the future conqueror of Everest was very shy. He read a lot and dreamed of adventure. As a high school student, he began boxing, which gave him some self-confidence. He took up mountain climbing at the age of 16.

In 1951, Hillary participated in the British expedition to Everest. But then the climbers did not reach their goal. After two years, Hillary again took part in the expedition. In the middle of the 20th century, the Chinese closed the road to Everest from Tibet. The climbers set off from Nepal, whose government had nothing against mountain expeditions.

Tenzing Norgay

Of course, it is impossible for one person to conquer a mountain peak. We named Edmund Hillary. But in reality there were two discoverers. Hillary managed to get to Everest together with Tenzing Norgay. It is worth saying that it was a very experienced climber. Perhaps it was thanks to him that Everest was conquered in 1953. Norgay later admitted that from the very high point an amazing view opens up on the ground - beautiful, wild and terrible.

Women's expeditions began to storm Everest in the mid-seventies. And quite successfully. The first woman to summit Everest was Junko Tabei, a Japanese citizen. This was in 1976. Four years later, Wanda Rutkevich from Poland climbed to the top. In 1990 - our compatriot Ekaterina Ivanova.

First. Almost two meters tall, New Zealander Edmund Hillary photographed a small Sherpa on a snow dome with an ice ax raised, decorated with flags of the UN, Great Britain, Nepal and India. Climbers used oxygen devices, May 29, 1953. (Photo by Edmund Hillary | Royal Geographical Society via Associated Press):

More than 30 Sherpas took part in this expedition. In the photo: New Zealander Edmund Hillary climbs Mount Everest with a group, 1953. (Photo (New York Times):

New Zealander Edmund Hillary (right) and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay climbing the highest mountain in the world, 1953. (Photo by Associated Press):

The first conquerors of Everest - New Zealander Edmund Hillary (right) and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, 1953. (Photo by George W. Hales | Hulton Archive via Getty Images):

Another photo of the first people who climbed Mount Everest in 1953. (Photo by Norgay Archive via Reuters):

Exactly 60 years later, Kathmandu, Nepal, May 29, 2013. Journalists remove the monument to New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay. (Photo by Niranjan Shrestha | Associated Press):

The first successful ascent was preceded by 30 years of desperate attempts to break through to the top. Everest, May 15, 2003. (Photo by Paula Bronstein | Getty Images):

It is still a mystery and a subject of controversy whether George Mallory and Andrew Irwin reached the summit in 1924. The body of the first was found only in 1999. at an altitude of 8,155 meters, 300 meters below Irwin's ice ax (whose body has not been found so far), which indicates a possible breakdown of climbers from the mountain. Sunglasses were found in the pocket of Mallory's clothes, but the photo of his wife Ruth, which he promised to leave on the top of Everest, was not found! (Photo by Gurinder Osan | Associated Press):

By the way, the phrase "the conquest of Everest" is not entirely correct, and climbers do not like it. This is from the same area as "to sail the sea". It is believed that the mountain cannot be conquered, it can only be climbed. In this case, the mountain can “let” or “not let”. Another team of climbers in the base camp, April 7, 2003. Puja ceremony (worship ceremony). (Photo by Erich Schlegel | The Dallas Morning News via Associated Press):

The first to determine that Chomolungma is the highest mountain peak on Earth, was the Indian mathematician and topographer Radhanat Sikdar in 1852 on the basis of trigonometric calculations, when he was in India, 240 km from Chomolungma. On the slopes of Everest, April 27, 2013. (Photo by AFP | Getty Images):

In 1856, the first measurement of the height of the summit was made by the British India Geodetic Survey - exactly 29,000 feet (8,839 m), but it was announced that the height of Chomolungma was 29,002 feet (8,840 m). This arbitrary addition was made so that the round number 29,000 would not give the impression that the accuracy of the measurements was not high. Everest, January 14, 2011. (Photo by Prakash Mathema | AFP | Getty Images):

Since April 8, 2010, the official height of Everest is fixed at around 8848 m above sea level, and the height of solid rock is 8844 meters. Everest Conquest. Altitude 5,944 meters, May 13, 1999. (Photo by Associated Press):

Records. In 1996, Ang Rita Sherpa summited 10 times without oxygen tanks. Four years later, his record was broken by another Sherpa, Apa, who reached the summit for the 11th time. In total, Appa Tenzing has climbed Mount Everest 21 times (data valid as of May 2011). Kumbhu icefall on the slope of Everest, May 17, 2003. (Photo by Gurinder Osan | Associated Press):

Records. In 1999, Sherpa Babu Shiri spent 21 hours on the summit, and this despite the fact that already at an altitude of 7925 m a dead zone begins - the air contains only a third of the amount of oxygen that is present in the atmosphere at sea level. Climbing Everest, May 1, 1963. The success of this expedition was achieved thanks to the talent of Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Everest. (Photo by AP Photo | Henry S. Hall, Jr. American Alpine Club Library, Barry Corbet Personal Papers and Films):

In 2001, the blind American Eric Weihenmeier made an amazing ascent of Everest. By that time, he had already conquered all the highest mountain peaks on all continents. "Climbing the seven most high mountains seven parts of the world, I hoped to show people that goals that may seem out of reach are actually quite achievable,” Weihenmeier said in a statement. Everest, November 15, 1983. (Photo by Bikas Das | Associated Press):

The conquest of Everest is a very long process. Climbing to the top takes about 2 months - with acclimatization and setting up camps. Weight loss after climbing - an average of 10-15 kg. On May 23, 2013, 80-year-old Japanese Yuichiro Miura, having completed the ascent, became the oldest person to conquer Everest. (Photo by MIURA DOLPHINS Co., Ltd via Associated Press):

In May 2011, Nepalese spiritual teacher Bhakta Kumar Raibyl set a new record for the longest stay at the top - 32 hours. Everest conquerors with a tent (bottom left), October 13, 2011. (Photo by Barbara Walton | European Pressphoto Agency):

From the moment of the first ascent to the summit (1953) to the present (2013), more than 200 people have died on its slopes. Lowering the body of the deceased climber, May 16, 2010. (Photo by NAMGYAL SHERPA | AFP | Getty Images):

Even the most expensive and modern equipment does not always guarantee a successful ascent to the highest peak in the world. However, every year about 500 people try to conquer Everest. Expedition to Everest, May 18, 2013. (Photo by Adrian Ballinger | Alpenglow Expeditions via Associated Press):

In total, approximately 4,000 climbers have climbed the mountain to date. The bodies of the dead often remain on the slopes of the mountain due to the difficulties associated with their evacuation. Some of them serve as a guide for climbers. So the body of the Indian Tsevang Palzhor, who died in 1996, marks a height of 8,500 meters and even has its own name - "Green Shoes" - after the bright green shoes of the deceased. Top of the world, April 22, 2007. (Photo by Desmond Boylan | Reuters):

The countries on whose territory the approaches to the summit are located charge a lot of money for climbing to the top. Also, money is charged for the possibility of lifting. The order of rise of the expeditions is established. The cheapest way to conquer Chomolungma is from Tibet. The conquest of Everest, May 19, 2009. (Photo by AFP | Getty Images):

The conquest of Everest is an occupation for the rich. The cost of climbing is up to 65,000 US dollars, with the climbing permit issued by the government of Nepal alone costing 10,000 dollars. A significant proportion of travelers reaching the summit are now wealthy tourists with minimal mountaineering experience. On the way to the top of Everest, May 18, 2003. (Photo by Adrian Ballinger | ALPENGLOW EXPEDITIONS, via Associated Press):

Records. On May 22, 2010, 13-year-old American Jordan Romero (right) climbed the summit with his father. Prior to this, the record was held by 15-year-old Min Kipa Sherpa. (Photo by Team Romero via Associated Press):

In the 21st century, thanks to the development of tourism infrastructure, there has been a significant increase in annual ascents, so if in 1983 8 people reached the summit, in 1990 about forty, then in 2012 234 people climbed Everest in just one day. During the ascent, many hours of traffic jams and even fights between climbers were noted. (Photo by Tshering Sherpa | AFP | Getty Images):

The volume of garbage accumulated on the slopes of the mountain is so great that Everest is called "the highest mountain dump in the world." At the top of Everest, May 22, 2010. (Photo by Apa Sherpa via European Pressphoto Agency):

In April 2013, the Nepalese police investigated the circumstances of a fight between famous European climbers and their Sherpa guides, which allegedly took place on the outskirts of the summit of Everest. The conflict reportedly erupted after the climbers ignored an order to halt their ascent while the Sherpas fixed the ropes. Mount Everest, May 26, 2003. (Photo by Gurinder Osan | Associated Press):

According to an American climber who observed the conflict, who wished to remain anonymous, "the fight was so intense that I was afraid that one of its participants would die." The conquerors of Everest fought with the Sherpas at an altitude of 8,000 meters. On top of the world, May 18, 2013. (Photo by ALPENGLOW EXPEDITIONS via Associated Press):

The hardest part of climbing Everest is the last 300m, nicknamed by mountain climbers "the longest mile on Earth". To successfully pass this section, you need to overcome the steepest smooth stone slope covered with powdered snow. Base camp on the way to the top of Everest, May 16, 2013. (Photo by AP Photo | Pasang Geljen Sherpa):

The main climbing season is spring and autumn, as there are no monsoons at this time. The most suitable season for climbing the southern and northern slopes is spring. In autumn you can climb only from the south. Camp at an altitude of 7315 meters. (Photo by AP Photo | Courtesy of Alan Arnette via The Coloradoan):

This was an article dedicated to the 60th anniversary of the conquest of Everest. (Photo by Adrian Ballinger | Alpenglow Expeditions via Associated Press):

(Photo by AP Photo | Hiroyuki Kuraoka, HO):