On this trip, I definitely wanted to get to the village of Teriberka, which is located 130 km from Murmansk. This is the only road to the Arctic Ocean in Russia, which can be reached without any checkpoints by car or public transport. At first I took these photos purely for myself, but during the trip I received several questions from readers about the quality of the coverage and decided to devote a separate post to this road. And it's really worth it, in general, look.

The road to Teriberka stretches east from Murmansk past the turn towards Severomorsk, a closed military town that is home to the Navy's Northern Fleet, including nuclear submarines. 90 km there is an asphalt road to the next fork in the village of Tumanny.

It is worth noting right away that there are no shops and gas stations along the entire journey from Murmansk to Teriberka, so when leaving the hero city, fill up a full tank

Gradually, the road begins to deteriorate and fail in places, and our speed of movement decreases. In some places, our Pradik bounced like on a springboard, I'm afraid to imagine how you can fly up here in a car. Military Kamaz vehicles, which, apparently, were driving from the exercises, constantly drove to the meeting.

Gradually, the bushes also disappeared, and the vast expanses of the rocky tundra opened up to our eyes. In autumn colors it looks just amazing!

This bizarre wooden structure - snow retainers, which were installed in places where snow most often occurred. In the background is a power line mast of a design that I saw for the first time. The places here are swampy, so they are installed on piles and pulled with cables.

For 42 kilometers to Teriberka, the asphalt ends, and the furious gravel road begins. Grader even for such a short distance can shake the soul out of you. The average speed even on Pradik was about 30-40 km per hour.

Reflective plastic bollards are installed along the edges of the road, which make it easier to identify the road at night or in winter during a snowstorm.

It’s a sin not to take a picture of the team with the car against the backdrop of such nature and unusual places..

The air here is pristine, and the endless wavy surface is covered with mosses of two colors and hundreds of lakes, which are located at different heights.

At every turn, the view is better than ever.

On one of the hills there are hundreds of pyramids of stones. We have already seen this near the border of the Arctic Circle. Most likely, another place of power.

Not being repaired for many years, snow retainers almost do not help, and in winter, during heavy snowfalls and winds, the road drifts, and Teriberka becomes cut off from civilization. Until the road is dug up again, food is brought to the village by helicopters.

A huge lake appeared ahead, stretching for ten kilometers, at first there was a feeling that this was the Teriberk Bay of the Barents Sea, but it turned out that it was just a reservoir. There is a cascade of three hydroelectric power stations on the Teriberka River, which we also passed.

The last 5 km of the road is simply fantastic and the most picturesque. Here are some more hills...

And the resorts of the Barents Sea are waiting for you :)

In the next post I will show Teriberka itself and tell you in detail about it.

So, it all started with the fact that before the new year I saw a photo on the Internet that really struck me with its unusualness. The photo was taken in the village of Teriberka, which is located in the very north of the European part of Russia, beyond the Arctic Circle, on the coast of the Barents Sea, at a distance of 2040 km from Moscow (where I actually live). I immediately wanted to go there!

However, after studying the issue, it turned out that getting there is not so easy (although in principle it is not difficult). Trains do not go there, and you need to go to Murmansk, and from there look for someone who would take you to Teriberka in a big, strong car with all-wheel drive. Why all-wheel drive? I think one glance at the map will be enough to understand this.

However, the obsession is for that and obsessive, that it did not want to leave me in any way. The more I read about Teriberka and the Kola Peninsula, the more I wanted to get there. The last straw was the mention on the Internet that this year in the Teriberka region some truly unimaginable in its strength is expected. northern lights. I finally lost my peace.

Having decided that close people should share both sadness, and joy, and obsessive thoughts of each other, I just threw off the photo to my friend. Ready! An obsessive thought settled in his head. In the same simple way, a friend was also infected with an obsessive thought. In general, we decided not to delay and go to new year holidays.

Since none of the three of us had yet found a chest of gold, we had to be at our Moscow work benches by January 6, that is, we had 4.5 days for everything about everything. On the train, we did not have time, the plane was very expensive, and we decided to go by car. With rights only Glory. To be honest, our car is not quite suitable for such trips (already an elderly hybrid car), but reasoning that Fate loves the brave, on the night of January 1-2, while the whole country was struggling with the consequences of the festivities, having put on sandwiches from the remaining New Year's dishes, and grabbing a bottle of champagne (for the solemn opening on the shore of the Barents Sea), we set off.

It's dark, driving is difficult, the roads are covered with ice. We decided to drive carefully, not to drive too hard and stop for rest and sleep as soon as we feel tired. Apart from mini stops at the call of nature, we got to Petrozavodsk (1020 km) in one breath. But the breath is still lost, and we decided on a more or less long stop.

We found the cheapest hostel, threw our things in and went for a walk around the city. The city, namely the embankment (the city stands on the White Sea) made a very good impression. It is obvious that we love the city. On the embankment there is an outdoor gym with a large number of exercise equipment. Moreover, the simulators are actively used for their intended purpose (this is in January, in the dark, at -25!) By the way, given that we drove 1000 km to the north, the temperature in Petrozavodsk was already significantly lower than in Moscow, and, despite although it seemed to us that we were well insulated, it was still cold. After dinner at a chic restaurant on the shores of the frozen sea with a view of the ice-clad ships, we went to the hostel. The hostel turned out to be a very cozy pleasant place with lovely hosts. Inside it was clean and very warm (Glory to the central heating of Russia!) After taking a shower and drinking hot tea, we went to bed. Slept for 3 hours and set off. We left Petrozavodsk at 4 am (03.01).

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Long routes are easier to overcome if they are divided into smaller segments, so we have appointed the next point - the sign of the Arctic Circle (600 km North from Petrozavodsk). None of us had ever been beyond the Arctic Circle before and the anticipation spurred us on. The mood was the most joyful. We seemed to ourselves brave pioneers. The discovery also consisted in the fact that we glanced at the route, not really bothering to check the location and frequency of gas stations along the way. For those who are going to repeat our route - on the road from Petrozavodsk to Murmansk there is a blind section of the road, 300 kilometers long. There are no settlements, gas stations and does not catch the network. At all. Only ice, snow and cold. And the breathtaking beauty of northern nature. Despite the fact that we have been living in Russia all our lives, and we have snow for 6-7 months a year, that is, in theory, it should no longer surprise and amaze, but we could not stop admiring. 50 shades of white and visible cold. This is when even being inside the car, you look out the window and understand that it is cold outside. Very cold. And incredibly beautiful.

Our car was not easy, it began to somehow noticeably louder ride. And we began to look at the thermometer more often, where every 30 km the temperature dropped by a degree. When there were 100 kilometers left to the Arctic Circle, it was -26 on the thermometer. And to the final goal is another 500 kilometers ..

At the sight of a signpost, which meant the border of the Arctic Circle, they jumped out of the car and, with childish squeals, rushed to be photographed against its background. The pillar was covered in places with stickers of football groups, which somewhat blurred the feeling of being a pioneer. Frostbite fingers and phones, moved on. The next point is Murmansk. The temperature, by the way, continued to fall, and by the time of arrival it was -38. Try to imagine our state, after 2000 km of road on icy roads, most of the time in the dark, almost without sleep ... and here we are in -38. -38 at sea, where the humidity and wind. Represented? It's great, right?

We booked a cheap hotel via the Internet (one well-known resource, we will not point fingers) and, not expecting anything bad, we were looking forward to a long-awaited warm rest. However, after driving 10 kilometers through a creepy-looking industrial area and, having buried ourselves in a sign "funeral service for pets", we were somehow depressed. The “hotel” turned out to be some kind of plasterboard construction barracks. Inside it was not only dirty, but downright disgusting. Absolutely everything was broken, and not just did not work, but it was broken, broken down, uprooted. The landscape is like in the most terrible horror films. The temperature inside this abode of sorrow was 5 degrees higher than outside. The guests of this institution also resembled zombie killers from a horror movie. In general, despite the terrible fatigue, we decided not to stay here and look for a better place, namely where there is a chance to wake up alive. This was perhaps the most negative part of the trip - an attempt to return the money, calls to the online resource where they made the reservation, asking if they check the locations before recommending them, and so on. As a result, justice prevailed, and the money was returned to us.

Unfortunately, there were no free hotels or apartments in the city, and we were forced to move into a neighboring barrack, where it was a little better in terms of public and warm. As for the warmth, it seemed so to us from the street. A good indicator of the temperature inside this hotel was the fact that the antifreeze, designed for -35, which we brought with us, froze and turned into jelly by morning. But let's not talk about sad things, let's talk about interesting things!

Having studied the Internet on the subject of how we would see the northern lights, we found several tours. However, we decided that we ourselves with a mustache and, having downloaded several applications of the world's leading institutions engaged in research on the northern lights, and, focusing on information about the location and time of the likely discovery of this natural phenomenon let's go looking.

In general, this is not recommended, since we do not know the area, the roads are skidding and you can find yourself in a deplorable situation, especially if the car is not an all-wheel drive jeep adapted for such trips. But let's remember those whom Luck loves! We set out to search.

We immediately agreed not to be upset if we didn’t manage to see the radiance, because the original purpose of the trip was to see Teriberka. Especially since we are newbies in catching the northern lights. And what? Before we had even driven 30 kilometers from Murmansk, when suddenly a part of the sky above us lit up! We jumped out of the car and yelled! We jumped and laughed, raising our heads, and could not believe our eyes. I used to think that the northern lights are something like a rainbow, that is, a static phenomenon in a small segment of the sky. It turned out to be a light wind moving at breakneck speed across the sky and shimmering with all shades and flashes. It is impossible to capture this on a cell phone camera. A friend took a semi-professional camera, but did not take a tripod, which is necessary for such pictures. Putting the device on the roof of the car, and holding it with her hands, she tried to take pictures. After about 10 minutes, we were so cold that we decided to get into the car to warm ourselves. However, this was not possible immediately, as the hands of a friend froze to the roof and had to carefully tear it off from the car. I had to warm my fingers in my mouth.

Frozen, but happy, we decided to drive a little more. After driving another 50 kilometers, we ran into a barrier and a checkpoint. We talked with the soldier at the checkpoint, they said that we were planning to go to Teriberka, to which he smiled and said that the forecast there promises -52 tomorrow ... .. I didn’t want to believe ...

We turned around and got ready to go back to the city, for fatigue took its toll, but then again the sky lit up and an even more grandiose sight appeared before our eyes than the first radiance that we saw! Again they jumped out of the car, again laughed and jumped with delight! A military jeep was passing by, the soldiers in it saw us and stopped. Well, that's all, we thought, now they will drag us to find out what we are doing on the border of the closed zone at night. It turned out they thought our car had broken down and we needed help. Having learned that everything was fine with us, and we were just admiring the northern lights, the jeep drove on. It was very nice that people did not pass by indifferently, but asked if they needed help.

Arriving at our wonderful hostel and arranging a meeting in the morning with a guide who would take us in a jeep to Teriberka, we fell asleep. Despite the fact that the temperature in the room was well below zero (read above about antifreeze), we slept like the dead.

At 8 am the next day we went to Teriberka. The guide stocked up cookies, chocolate and coffee in a thermos. How delicious it is! You need to spend more than 2 days in the cold to appreciate this simple snack. We also had plain water, but it froze into ice, and we had to warm it up on a torpedo.

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From Murmansk to Teriberka is 135 kilometers away. In principle, it is not far, but in winter the roads are often impassable even for jeeps. However, we were lucky, and we ended up in the village.

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During our lifetime we have visited more than 50 countries and countless cities and towns around the world. And you know what? None of us have seen anything like it anywhere and have not experienced such emotions. This is the most psychedelic place we have ever been, and probably will be.

Having passed through the village, and stopping on the seashore, we clearly understood that it would not be possible to drink champagne here, because the hands would fall off before you take a sip. Although the soldier's forecast about -52 did not come true (thank God), and it was only -20, but the strong wind and high humidity turned being there into a test. I can imagine how the inhabitants of the northern regions of Russia and Siberia are now grinning.
But for us it was unusual and uncomfortable.

I didn’t manage to take many photos, because delicate phones (what kind of owners such and phones) died almost immediately (mine lasted because I was in a special case with an extra battery). "Having walked" by the sea, we went to inspect the village. It is very difficult to describe what we saw and the emotions that overwhelmed us at that moment. But look at the pictures and try to imagine this place.
This place is real. People live there, rejoice and grieve. Children go to school and play snowballs.

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Teriberka awakens a whole range of conflicting emotions. Sadness from the contemplation of decline and destruction is mixed with delight from the contemplation of the power of nature, which takes its toll. Looking at houses dilapidated by the wind, analogies come to mind with Stalker's pictures of the post-apocalyptic world, with a few survivors, but alive, and, in spite of everything, people enjoying life. We could not tear ourselves away from the contemplation of the lonely window in the dark, ruined house glowing with festive New Year's lights. The only resident has lovingly decorated the dwelling and is celebrating New Year. It made me think about the attitude to life in general and that we take too much and take it for granted, forgetting to enjoy every day.

We returned to Murmansk completely frozen, a little busy, but happy. We said goodbye to the guide. We decided to look for a new, warmer and more comfortable home. Found, agreed, were going to dive into the car and go to the address. However, when we approached the car, instead of the car, we found a piece of ice. The car stood on the street for a day, and that was enough for it to freeze to stone. This is where the adventure began. Attempts to pour boiling water over the locks from the kettle did not lead to anything, and probably aggravated the situation, since the water froze instantly. A march to the store with a chemical solution - antifreeze, attempt number two, and again failure. The lock picking services were no longer working in the evening, especially the holidays, we already didn’t think much from fatigue and cold, and deciding that the morning was wiser than the evening, we went by taxi to our new home.

After sleeping for 5 hours, we continued to try to save our swallow. There was no way to save it, and the prospect of waiting for spring began to dawn until the car thawed. Well, or go by tow truck to St. Petersburg (1350 km), and there already sort it out. I think everyone can imagine the cost of such a tow truck trip. That's it. And time goes by, and we should already be halfway to Moscow, to the machine, and we are in Murmansk. I had to call, warn, take a vacation at my own expense. But we did not lose heart, and even found a part-time job at a local supermarket in case we really need to wait for spring.
However, by the evening the swallow was still able to revive, and we went home. The car roared, the sensors failed, and, to be honest, it was scary that the car would break down and we would be stuck somewhere in the gap where there were no gas stations, people and the network did not catch. For some reason, we decided that if we cross the Arctic Circle without any problems, then everything will be fine. We crossed the Arctic Circle, the temperature slowly but still crept up. When, finally, it became warmer than -30, we somehow immediately perked up and realized that everything was fine. As a reward for madness, the North has given us another Radiance. Big and incredibly beautiful. We no longer screamed and laughed. We just stood near the car and, not feeling the cold, looked at the sky for a long time.

December 19th, 2015

Do you know what the path to the End of the Earth is? And from the polar Murmansk there is a bus that makes it possible to feel it. He goes to Teriberka, a fishing village on the Barents Sea, which became the final and most striking (in every sense of the word) impression of my trip to the Kola Arctic at the end of June this year. One of the northern seas - the White - I have already seen on this trip. But the White Sea is still inland, and the Barents Sea can already be considered part of the Arctic Ocean, although it does not freeze in winter. Teriberka (emphasis on I!), to which I am heading, stands among the harsh rocks in front of the Arctic winds. Half abandoned in our time and very colorful village among the amazing northern nature. And there comes the very feeling that you are at the End of the World. The bus goes from Murmansk to Teriberka in the evening and back in the morning. So I have to spend the night there without sleep. And it’s even more interesting, because at the end of June, a polar day reigns at these latitudes, and the sun doesn’t set around the clock, continuing to shine from the north, that is, just from the sea, creating a surprisingly beautiful light. In the first part of the story about one night of the polar day, I will show the road from Murmansk to Teriberka, which only anticipated my nighttime impressions.

Teriberka is 85 kilometers northeast of Murmansk geographically and 120 kilometers by road. At the same time, if Murmansk is located on the shores of the Kola Bay, which, although it is part of the Barents Sea, looks more like a wide river, then Teriberka is located by the open sea. north coast The Kola Peninsula is historically referred to as the Murmansk coast or Murman - presumably, the Pomors named it so from the word "Normans", that is, in honor of the Vikings. And not the Murmansk coast got its name from the city of Murmansk, but vice versa - the city was founded only in 1916 under the name of Romanov-on-Murman. And it is Teriberka that is the most accessible place where you can see the open Murmansk coast, and therefore the open Barents Sea in general. Other settlements along the coast are mostly closed naval towns with nuclear submarine bases, and the simple wishing not to get there. True, there are other places, for example, the Rybachy Peninsula, but not every car can drive there, and there are no settlements nearby. Therefore, we are going to Teriberka.

The bus leaves Murmansk at six in the evening, and, according to the schedule, goes to Teriberka for four hours, but in fact it arrived there an hour and a half earlier. The return flight is at seven in the morning. So, I will have a whole night to Teriberka with its environs.

2. Bus station in Murmansk. It is on this green bus, produced in the glorious city of Kurgan, that I have to go to the End of the Earth ... The person on the left, entering the bus, is, by the way, the driver.

Today is Monday, so the bus leaves a little earlier - at 17-40. Once a week he makes a visit to Kola.

3. So, the landing is finally over, let's go. Hooray! My epic overnight trip has begun. Outside the window so far is Murmansk. The sun is shining brightly, while it is clear that 15 minutes ago it was raining. The weather here, on the edge of the Arctic, is very changeable.

We pass places already familiar to me - the center of Murmansk, the entire Kola Prospekt from beginning to end.

4. Then we drive into the city of Kola - in fact, a suburb of Murmansk, where we come across some buildings that look like summer cottages. Yes, there are dachas beyond the Arctic Circle too! And even vegetable gardens.

5. And this is the city of Cola, which we managed to catch a glimpse of from the bus window. I was impressed by the railway track passing next to the bus station. It seems that this is the access road of some kind of plant, but in fact it is a protected railway line Kola - Nickel.

6. The city of Kola, as already mentioned, in the current realities is a suburb of Murmansk. Therefore, leaving Kola, you can say goodbye to civilization until tomorrow morning - after returning from Teriberka, the landscape of Murmansk nine-story buildings and busy streets unusually hurt my eyes.

7. Road works are underway - the Kola-Murmansk bypass is being repaired, along which you can get to Severomorsk from the R-21 "Kola" highway.

8. But this road junction is left behind, and our bus leaves for an almost deserted and still asphalt road to the End of the Earth. Around the roadsides there is a stunted forest-tundra. But that's for now... The closer to Teriberka, the more the landscape will change.

There are quite a few passengers on the bus. Apparently, these are residents of Teriberka, working in Murmansk and Kolya, returning home in the evening. I have already seen photographs of Teriberka on the Internet and had an idea in what decline and devastation the village is now. It would seem that people in such semi-abandoned places should not be very pleasant. But this is absolutely not the case, exactly the opposite. Residents of Teriberka leave the impression of pleasant and friendly people, completely different from the "inhabitants of the outback". And this is striking in combination with the state of the village (I will show this in the following parts). What's the matter? And it's in the North! Life in the Far North is not the same as in the Middle lane. Weak people cannot live here. Therefore, the inhabitants of the Far North, even its most depressing places, leave a very pleasant impression.

Among the passengers was a group of tourists - five people, among whom was a guy with a broken leg. Having heard snippets of their conversations out of the corner of my ear a couple of times, I realized that they were also from St. Petersburg. Then I met them once in the middle of the night. Being, as already mentioned, the most accessible place on the open Barents Sea, Teriberka has become very popular with tourists in the past few years. Until 2009, not everyone could come there either - Teriberka was in the border zone. Now, in one night, in addition to the people who were traveling with me in the same bus, I saw cars with license plates from other regions several times in Teriberka. But still, Teriberka has not yet become a final pop place. And this is good.

10. We go further. Outside the windows of the bus is still forest-tundra, hills and lakes. Habitual landscape of the northern part of the Kola Peninsula. The weather, meanwhile, has become more stable - no rain, no clouds to be seen. So maybe it will be sunny all night?

11. Picturesque expanses of Kola Lapland. One hill gives way to another, one lake to another - and they are all at different heights. On the ground - swamps, low fir trees and birch crooked forests.

12. In some places on the hills there are the remains of Soviet-era military facilities. The Murmansk region is not just a border region, but borders on Finland and Norway - "capitalist" countries, one of which, moreover, is a member of NATO. Therefore, in Soviet times there was a particularly high concentration of military bases and units of various branches of the military. And now there are a lot of them (which is worth the Northern Fleet with nuclear submarines), - if you go by train going to Murmansk, then recruits will definitely go in at least one car, and in the opposite direction, respectively, demobilization.

13. The road winds through the passes, from one hill to another, going further and further. Do you see white five-story buildings on the right side of this frame?

This is, as they say in everyday life, Troika - the closed military town of Severomorsk-3, which is part of the Severomorsk city district. What is especially interesting, despite the closeness locality, a transit bus to Teriberka drives into it and reaches the center! At the entrance to the village, everything is serious - there is a checkpoint with a barrier and a sentry in camouflage and with a machine gun. But the barrier opens, and no one is checked, since the bus is a transit one, it will simply drive into the town and drive back. Interesting here is the very unique opportunity, having traveled by passenger bus, to see the inside of the city, which is closed to the public. Even if he is not particularly remarkable in his appearance. Two and a half thousand people now live in Severomorsk-3 (not to be confused with simply Severomorsk) (the vast majority are military men with families). It is also one of the bases of the Northern Fleet. But since the city is not located by the sea, nuclear submarines are based, which is rather unusual, in tundra lakes.

It's a joke :) In fact, there is a military airfield here. That is, this is the town of pilots.

14. This is how this small town looks like (this, by the way, is my only picture of it). Just a few blocks of five-story buildings, but it's impressive that you look at the closed city from the bus, although you don't have the right to get out.

Interestingly, there were no residents of Troika among the passengers of my bus, and no one got off here. The bus just stood for a couple of minutes at the bus station, turned around and drove back to the road to Teriberka. By the way, I didn’t even understand how the control system for getting off the bus was organized in Severomorsk-3 - there were no inspectors in sight.

15. We pass through the checkpoint again and return to the Way to the End of the Earth. For the time being, our road goes to the east, as it can be seen on the map - only after the fork with the road to the village of Tumanny we will turn left - to the north.

16. This, it seems, is Lake Kitenyavr - as in the Khibiny, in the north of the Kola toponymy is mainly Sami.

17. A high-voltage power line constantly stretches along the road, supplying energy to remote settlements of the Kola region Murmansk region. In general, places along the road look less and less inhabited. The atmosphere of the wilderness is intensifying, but it is felt here somehow completely differently than in the Middle lane. Including, as already mentioned, thanks to the special northern people.

Somewhere here on the road, the word Teriberka was first encountered - the road crosses a river with that name, flowing into the Barents Sea, and giving the name to the village.

18. Unusually bright polar sun and unusually blue sky. This never ceases to amaze me...

19. We make a short stop on the way. For about ten minutes. You can go out and stretch a little. The time on the clock is already approaching eight in the evening. In the polar summer, it is cool in the fresh air, - like in Murmansk, here it is about +12 degrees, and mosquitoes also fly.

20. Forest-tundra crooked forest. So far, this is not a dwarf birch, but an ordinary one. We will still see the dwarf one in the vicinity of Teriberka.

22. ...and the real tundra begins! White-greenish reindeer moss, mosses, and now dwarf trees, no taller than the knee.

23. In some places small trees still grow. Basically, closer to the lakes and in the lowlands. But in general, the natural zone of the tundra is finally coming into its own.

24. While the sun is still high, towards the night it sinks lower and lower towards the horizon. But it won't go in completely, it will go around in a circle from the north side. Of course, it will be especially interesting to see it over the sea.

Soon we pass a fork in the road, marked with a bow cross. The road goes to the right to the villages of Tumanny and Dalnie Zelentsy (the latter, by the way, is also on the coast - I hope to visit there somehow), but we will turn left and head straight north - to the Barents Sea. There are forty kilometers left to Teriberka. Here the asphalt ends, and now the bus rustles through the tundra along the dusty gravel road.

25. And even the atmosphere of the surrounding landscapes somehow changes as a whole. There is a feeling that I am really approaching the End of the Earth.

26. Lake Kiyavr. Since the bus turned, the sun now shines from the west, that is, exactly on my left side of the bus. Although it was +12 outside the window (or maybe even colder), it was so hot to sit by the window in the sun that it seemed as if it was at least +23 outside. Apparently, this is again because the sun is brighter in the Far North than in more southern latitudes - due to more transparent air.

27. And this transparency of the air, combined with the unusual tundra landscape for me, gives rise to an amazing feeling. The sense of the eye is greatly disturbed here. Looking at the bare tundra (even if it is hilly), it is unusually difficult for me to determine by eye the distance to this or that object, for example, a hill or a lake. It’s not very clear in the photo, but when you look at it with your own eyes, it’s impressive.

28. Before you reach Teriberka, you already begin to understand that everything is really different here...

29. Pay attention to the sticks stuck in the ground. This is a fence (albeit already pretty broken) to protect the road from snow crossings. Winter on the Kola Peninsula is not very cold for the Arctic (due to the Gulf Stream in the Barents Sea), but very snowy. This is especially felt in this part of the region. There is no high mountains and there is no forest - the tundra along the Murmansk coast is open to all Arctic winds. And in winter, a blizzard here can start suddenly and rage for several days - it happens that Teriberka becomes cut off from the mainland for this time.

What is a blizzard, in the Middle lane people do not always know. More precisely, they call a snowstorm an ordinary heavy snowfall with gusts of wind. But here everything is different. The winds in the tundra near the Arctic Ocean are blowing such that it is sometimes difficult for a resident of the Middle Strip to imagine. I myself felt it in Teriberka, but if heavy snowfall is added to this in winter, then a real blizzard begins. Imagine a blizzard lasting for several days with a wind of 30 m/s in the middle of a dense tundra, and even on a polar night. Having imagined this, you understand why people in the North are more open and reliable...

30. And here comes the snow! The end of June, and its remnants among the tundra still lie. Firstly, the already cool summer here has just begun, and secondly, there is so much snow here during the long winter that it can then melt until autumn.

31. After eight in the evening, rocky hills become higher and higher, and the bus goes along the shore of a large lake, in which the wind blowing from the already close sea drives a wave.

In fact, this is the Teribersky reservoir. In the 1980s, a cascade of two HPPs was built on the already mentioned Teriberka River. The bus passed one of the dams over the bridge - there is a large difference in water level between the channel and the reservoir. But I didn't get to capture it.

32. The rocks around the road become taller and more impregnable. The last kilometers left to Teriberka. Probably, looking outside, you can smell the sea.

33. Then the road enters a severe-looking gorge. Weathered, bizarre and reddish rocks look like someone's faces...

And after the gorge, the sea is shown ahead! So - you can come to the sea not only to the south, but also to the north! Houses are visible near the shore of a secluded bay - this is Teriberka. The village consists of two parts - in fact, Teriberka (it is closer) and the village of Lodeynoye, two kilometers to the north, - closer to the open sea, now this is the main part of the village. The highway goes straight to Lodeynoye, but the bus first calls at Staraya Teriberka, where I decided to get off (to get to Lodeynoye closer to the middle of the night, and go back from there in the morning). A turn, a bridge over the Teriberka River - now at its very mouth, then the bus passes several rural houses and stops. Most of the passengers (including the mentioned group of tourists) go to Lodeynoye. Here, in Staraya Teriberka, besides me, four people come out. Among them, for example, is a man who is met by a family with a little girl. I must say that here people have no less happy faces than in big cities ...

34. People dispersed, the bus left for Lodeynoye. And in front of me is Old Teriberka. For the first few minutes, I was just trying to figure out where I was and get used to the incredible scenery that surrounded me. Gloomy treeless rocks, the Barents Sea with a salty and icy wind, a dazzlingly bright polar sun, and among all this - ordinary, like, rural houses and even vegetable gardens. Somewhere on a fishing line, clothes are being dried, at a neighboring house, a grandmother is weeding the garden beds. Does such a combination exist? After all, how diverse our country is!

The bus was well ahead of schedule, and the hands of the clock still show half past eight in the evening. I have the whole night at my disposal - however, at this time of the year, night here is only on the clock. The bus will return at 7 am.

In general, I got into amazing place. And about how I spent one night of the polar day on the shores of the Barents Sea, I will tell in the following parts.

Andrey Zvyagintsev's "Leviathan" brought the director a Golden Globe, and the small village of Teriberka in the north of the Murmansk region, where key scenes of the film were filmed, became world famous. In the three years that have passed since the premiere, four hotels, a hostel, a restaurant were opened in the village and the third Arctic festival “Teriberka. New life". "Snob" decided to see how "Leviathan" influenced the life of the village

T-

- So this is the Teriberka River! We've only gone half way.

— You didn't specify... Last year, tourists got lost here in the same way. Family with a small child. Walked for two weeks. Well, at least there was a fishing rod. And my son has some gingerbread in his backpack.

Panorama of Teriberka

To the right of the bridge stood the house of Kolya from Leviathan

Teriberka is a godforsaken place on the coast of the Barents Sea. 1973 kilometers from Moscow, 120 from Murmansk, the last 40 kilometers on a broken dirt road. Even 10 years ago, here, in the border zone, they were allowed in with special passes. At the end of the 2000s, the village, lost between the rocks and the tundra, attracted fans of hiking, as well as kite surfers who rode on the waves of the sea, turning into the Arctic Ocean.

Previously, there were two villages on the coast - the old Teriberka, where the first Pomor settlements appeared in the 16th century, and the young Lodeynoye. In the mid-nineties, they were united into one village: Teriberka became the “old Teriberka”, and Lodeynoye became the “new”. The road between the villages goes past copper-red mountains and hummocky hills dotted with moss, on which here and there one can see blackened snow.

New Teriberka: migrants and police in the bath

As soon as we entered the village, we dived into a thick fog. Even in July, the temperature here rarely rises above 11 degrees.

We settled on the outskirts of the new Teriberka in a two-story house. For the first minutes it seemed that there was nothing outside the windows - only a green meadow, an overgrown lake and fog. Unaccustomed silence - no gulls or dogs can be heard, only the wind.

The village is tiny. Five or six five-story buildings and a dozen small houses. More than half of all buildings - both stone and wooden - are abandoned and destroyed, signs “Your house will be relocated no later than 2017” turn yellow on them. All houses, including seemingly abandoned ones, are hung with satellite dishes. Elders roam the gardens.

One of dozens of destroyed houses in Lodeynoye

New home for migrants from emergency housing

Previously, in two villages there was a school and a kindergarten, now they remain only in Lodeynoye. The school lacks teachers, some lessons are conducted via Skype.

Lodeynoye has three grocery stores with Moscow prices, a bakery and a hardware store. Not far from the local church, on Pionerskaya Street, there is a house that has everything: the village administration, post office, Sberbank, library, hospital, police, pharmacy, housing and communal services and a bathhouse.

The director of the library, Tatyana Nesterova, immediately signed us up for the reading room. According to her, in total, “either 885, or 895 people” are recorded in the library - this is locals, and tourists who are interested in the history of Teriberka. Locals, according to the director, read all the same books as in "any other library": science fiction, love stories and women's detective stories.

Tatyana Nesterova, director of the Teriberka library:

Photo: Natalia Vasilyeva Director of the Teriberka Library Tatyana Nesterova

When I was seven or eight years old, these five-story buildings were being built in Lodeynoye. And in that Teriberka, Nina Ivanovna works for me, the service department of Pomorye, this is my mother. When I was in elementary school, I went to work with her. There was a boat, there was no bridge, it was possible to get there only by sea. When I went to her library, it seemed to me that it was a huge village. So many people!

In the late seventies, people began to leave. When I went to school in 1976, there were 32 of us in the first grade. When we finished elementary school, there were 20 something left. For three years, my classmates with their parents left here. This happened not only in our country, but, probably, throughout the country: from small towns, villages, people moved to the city for a better life.

Now a lot of young families with children have left under the program of resettlement from emergency housing to Kola. Those who do not want to move have a house built for them.

There is enough work in Teriberka. We work in the library, someone at school, in kindergarten, at the post office, we have Sberbank, the Serebryanskaya hydroelectric power station, ours also work there. The road transport section is where my husband is. The fish factory is private, all our people work there. There is also a collective farm in that Teriberka, also all local. Who wants to work, he works, of course. The men catch the beluga. And I, for example, spend the evenings in the greenhouse. We live normally, no worse than in the city, and maybe even better. We are quiet, fine.

I ask what problems there are in Teriberka, Tatyana first refuses, and then talks about two troubles - a bad road and high prices in stores. “Therefore, we go to Murmansk for groceries,” she says.

In the best years, five thousand people lived in Teriberka, more recently - a little more than a thousand, and now - about 800. Two hundred people from dilapidated houses moved near Murmansk. Those who refused to leave Teriberka were given apartments in a new three-story multi-colored building near a school in Lodeynoye. It is due in September.

Old Teriberka: a graveyard of ships and Gazprom

You can walk from Lodeynoye to old Teriberka in 40-50 minutes, five minutes is enough by car, buses do not run. A church, a chapel, a fish factory, a hotel and a dilapidated port stand by a dusty dirt road. In an hour, a dozen cars pass by on the road.

On the approach to the old Teriberka, rusted skeletons of ships are buried in the water. Here stood the house of the protagonist of "Leviathan" Kolya, but nothing remained of the set - only steps to the pier.

Old Teriberka is cut in half by the so-called Gazprom road. It passes through the entire village, past the dump of old "Zhiguli" and the cemetery, through a mountain crevice and out to a small bay. The road was supposed to connect Teriberka with the Gazprom liquefaction plant, but the plant was never built. Rockfall is possible on the road, locals warn. Once there they saw a bear with cubs - a family with children came across them.

Photo: Natalya Vasilyeva The lake near which the Gazprom road ends

There is a two-story house of culture near the Gazprom road, here they teach to play the piano, button accordion, accordion, the oldest Pomor choir rehearses, photographs and paintings are exhibited, there is a library. The Museum of Pomor Life was recently opened. Nearby in the building of the former administration is the office of the "daughter" of "Gazprom", in the neighborhood - an abandoned hospital. Throughout the village there are rickety gray houses one or two floors high, and it seems that no one has lived in them for a long time.

Drunkards and Lapps

On the way to old Teriberka we met Kirill, our guide. He hitchhiked to the festival. “Went to a rave at the end of the world. I went for two days, but stayed for a week,” says Kirill. At first he lived in a tent on the seashore in old Teriberka, hung out among the rocks, drank with local alcoholics, and when a storm began, he joined the Norwegian tent.

Chum built by the Norwegians

Signboard at the house of a local resident

In the chum (wigwam, tipi, and in Norwegian lovva) guys from Russia and Norway gathered: journalists, cameramen, photographers, builders. In fact, they live in a hotel, and use the chum as a kitchen and meeting place. Together they are building a mobile library: they want to sheathe the Ural truck with boards and collect more Russian classics “with the whole world”. The administration of Teriberka allowed two emergency houses to be dismantled for the library, the locals are already aware - some are helping to build, others are asking where to carry the books.

Together with Kirill, we went into a dilapidated wooden house in which Kostya, a slightly naive, kind alcoholic, lives. The stove is heated, there are worn sofas along the walls, there is no light and water in the house. Kostya from Murmansk comes to Teriberka to fish. He lives in the house of his friend Filippych, with whom he goes to sea on a boat. “The border guards forbid catching crab and salmon, but there is cod. Enough to eat." Friends sell part of the fish to Murmansk stores.

Filippych will arrive only in three days, Kostya drinks and suffers from the dirty tricks of his drinking companions. During the drinking, Kostya hid 10 thousand rubles in a suitcase, woke up - there was no money. Fell asleep again - the tablet was stolen. I sent "one woman" for vodka, gave 700 rubles - she never returned. And on this day, Kostya does not want to drink with them at all: “They are dirty. And they'll steal something again."

During the festival, guests of Teriberka began to relieve small needs at Kostya's house, so he hung a sign "Come to piss in the house", put a glass in the toilet - and they began to leave him 50-100 rubles each. So in a couple of days he collected one and a half liters of vodka. Once one man started shitting right under the windows. Kostya was outraged.

“You’ve got a thousand, just can’t stand the brain,” he said in response, holding out a bill.

- For a thousand - even shit on the roof, - answered Kostya.

In the destroyed houses, according to Kostya, people continue to live, but often - one person per 8 apartments. In a couple of houses there are alcoholics, in another there is an elderly woman who is waiting for relocation. There is no electricity or water anywhere. Kostya believes that no more than 50 people live in the old Teriberka.

We go into one rickety building, which seems uninhabited - a guitar deck hangs on a cabinet in the corridor. In another house, sheets are being dried in the attic. These houses will be demolished soon. As conceived by local authorities, only two three-story houses, small cottages and hotels will remain. It is impossible to build permanent residential buildings here - the old Teriberka is in the flood zone, if it suddenly breaks through the nearby hydroelectric power station.

On the outskirts of old Teriberka there is a farm, a former collective farm, where cows and calves graze. Near it is a sign with the inscription in three lines "Passage is prohibited." Many years ago, Lapps (or Sami, a small Finno-Ugric people) lived on this street, they kept about 200 deer, but then they sold them all to Lavozero. The former farm worker Mikhail, a short man in his 60s, whom we meet when he walks the dog Taiga, tells me about this. Mikhail says that he saw the plagues of the Sami, but in his childhood they already lived in wooden houses. “On the bank where the film was shot, there were also houses. Nothing left,” he says sadly.

Michael, former electrician:

Photo: Natalya Vasilyeva Former farm worker Mikhail

I was born in Teriberka. Now he is retired, he must rest sometime, otherwise some grumble and grumble until old age. I live with my wife over there in that three-story house. For the winter we are leaving for Murmansk, but there you can only go to the store. Pulls here. In winter, we watch TV, not Channel One, of course, but what we like. And in the summer we go for mushrooms, berries, fishing again.

When the road is swept over in winter, you won’t leave Teriberka for a week or two. Previously, the road was cleaned, but now they have stopped. But no one is starving, they don’t drop food to us by helicopters: he looked into the pantry - here’s food for you.

Previously, there was a border zone here and they were allowed in with special passes. And now the border guards are fooling around, what is there to guard? The border is far away. It is also forbidden to catch crabs. What is forbidden? Full of crabs! There are so many of them that they scared away all the fish.

Leviathan is a good movie. Alexey Serebryakov is the right man. I shook his hand, he is simple, without frills. After the film, there were more tourists. Some of us say, they say, why are you going, this is our land! Even Murmansk. But I don’t have such thoughts - we live in the same country.

Old school in Teriberka

Not far from the local cemetery is an old three-story school with broken windows. You can get inside both from the main entrance and from two spare ones. Kirill from Moscow says that he has already gone to school twice in a week, and once with local boys aged 10-13. Among the teenagers, there was the most desperate one - he threw everything and broke it, and in the biology room he split the model of the brain.

We enter the school from the back door. The inside smells of stagnant dust, wires hanging from the ceiling. There is no floor in the gym, but there are basketball hoops. Books, slides for filmstrips, posters are scattered in the classrooms. Graffiti on the wall - "I am a bohemia." “It’s like I got to Pripyat,” says Kirill.

There are few children in Teriberka, many come here only for holidays. They wander between playgrounds, ride swings, hang on horizontal bars, ride bicycles. “We do everything we can,” says a 11-12-year-old blond-haired guy who, along with a friend, fishes on a pier in the port. “Flounder is everywhere here, at the port you can go in,” shows a fish the size of a hand, “and there,” waves his hand towards the sea, “in!” - and spreads his arms as far as he can.

Frozen Chinese

Near the shop in old Teriberka a big orange bus stops, tourists get out of it. “Oh, the Chinese have arrived,” says the guy who paints the wooden outbuilding at the House of Culture.

When there is snow all around, snowboarders go to Teriberka, starting from spring - kitesurfers. Most tourists are in June-August, when the air warms up to 20 degrees and above. Recession from September to December. And then the Chinese come.

“The Chinese are hunting for the northern lights,” says sound engineer Igor, who works at the House of Culture. - They are offended if it is not there. They have a belief that if you conceive a child during the northern lights, then a great destiny awaits him.

Barents Sea in winter

In winter, when the road to Teriberka was covered with snow, electricity and water were turned off in the village for a week, mobile communications were lost, bank terminals stopped working, Igor says. The generator was turned on in the old settlement, but in the new one, he says, for some reason they didn't. “And then there are the Chinese. They don’t have cash, they don’t give them a loan - no one knows them. Some approached me, they said, "Take us away," but how can I take them away. Someone fed them."

Igor, sound engineer at the House of Culture:

In winter, the road to the city was blocked 22 or 23 times. Snow is removed by augers, but they are old, constantly breaking, and no one wants to help. We then wrote an open letter, told how this problem could be solved, and suggested updating the fleet of vehicles. They put the letter in the shops, and in one evening in the new Teriberka 200 people signed it, in the old one - another 30. And this is for an evening. And the next morning all the letters were gone. They say that the head of Teriberka herself took the letter from one store. We then complained to the prosecutor's office, she made a presentation to the governor.

On June 1, the head of the Kola district Alexander Likholat arrived in the village. He then said that snow is no longer relevant, why wave your fists after a fight. He refused to renew the fleet of vehicles, he said that there was no money. A new auger at the plant costs 6.2 million rubles. As soon as Lykholat left, the road was closed again.

There are problems here. When I worked under the contract, I was not paid a salary for a year. I came to the administration, they told me: "There is no money, write to the prosecutor's office." I wrote, a week later they gave the money. Then the administration was offended, they say, why didn’t you come to us right away.

We rented an apartment with a girl for 8300 rubles, and then the owner kicked us out, handed us over to kiters for 45 thousand. He said that it was only for two months, and when the surfers stayed on, he was very sorry. During the festival, one one-room apartment was rented for 20 thousand for two days. The hostess said from the bulldozer, and they agreed.

Teriberka in inscriptions

Many of us leave for Murmansk, St. Petersburg, it is simpler there, but here you have to fuss in some places, plow in some places. You can get a job as a security guard at a hydroelectric power station, but not everyone is hired, for example, if you drink, they definitely won't. After Leviathan, there are more people who work with tourists.

I don't want to go anywhere. Those who say that there is nothing to do here are lying. There is something to do. After the film, my life changed dramatically: before I did nothing, but now I communicate with such people!

Urbanists in Teriberka

In July, Teriberka hosted the third Arctic festival “Teriberka. New life". It was organized by the LavkaLavka farmer's cooperative and the Bolshaya Zemlya Rural Development Fund. Back in 2015, Boris Akimov, one of the founders of LavkaLavka, said that he wanted to “breathe life” into the village and turn it into a “paradise”.

At the festival "Teriberka. New life"

This is how urbanists see Teriberka

Three thousand people came to the festival. The organizers set up a campsite on the seashore (not far from the Zhiguli dump), set up two stages, invited artists, and arranged several lectures. While some were talking about urbanism, others were boating on the sea and watching birds, others were watching circus performances, and others were swimming, squealing, in icy water.

Stands near the House of Culture remained from the festival. One contains excerpts from the concept of the Teriberka Ecovillage Master Plan prepared by urbanists from the United States, the Netherlands and Russia. They proposed cleaning up Lodeynoye, installing children's and playgrounds, sports equipment on the streets, organizing 25-45 places where you can relax or take shelter from the weather, and build up a new village with two-story houses.

The authors of the concept propose to divide the old Teriberka into two parts: the ethnoterritory and the territory of dachas. On the ethno-territory, by the sea, build one-story houses, like those of the coast-dwellers, and two-story boarding houses, outwardly similar to barracks, put up antique wood warehouses and telegraph poles. The second territory is proposed to be divided into land from 4 to 15 acres for summer cottages. Urbanists also propose to create a warning and evacuation system in case the hydroelectric power plant breaks through.

Mayor of Teriberka: My dream has come true - we will have asphalt

Photo: Natalya Vasilyeva Tatyana Trubilin, Head of Teriberka Rural Settlement

Tatyana Trubilina took over Teriberka in 2013 and will run for a second term this September. After the release of Leviathan, she criticized Andrei Zvyagintsev for showing "dirty, unwashed Russia" in his film. “The film crew did not see anything good that is happening in our village: what a wonderful House of Culture we have, a library equipped with all multimedia systems and a satellite dish. Neither the film studio nor the director asked us to help in filming. But they left behind a lot of rubbish,” Trubilina in January 2015.

Now she is sure that it is thanks to her that tourists go to Teriberka.

“If we, personally, and maybe someone else, had not expressed our opinion about the film, it would have passed unnoticed,” she says. - A lot of reporters came to me from everywhere, I even have it written down. Such companies came, newspapermen, I had never even heard of such companies before, I saw them for the first time in my life. They almost came here from Africa, took interviews.”

After the release of Leviathan, the mayor believes, the life of the locals has not changed in any way. “It does not affect us in any way that festivals are held here. Muscovites have fun, relax, and the population lived and lives as it is,” she says.

At the same time, Tatyana Trubilina is sure that the urbanists are right and one day Teriberka will turn into a holiday village.

Tatyana Trubilina, head of Teriberka:

When we had a festival that year, I was also interviewed. I said that I have a dream that there will be asphalt here - in our rural settlement Teriberka. You know, my dream came true, we will have it. It is still very expensive to pave 40 kilometers to Teriberka. But I think that by 2019 the issue will be resolved.

In 2015, we planned to organize a connection between Lodeynoye and Teriberka. Even the Kola region provided us with a car. We put it in order and asked people for 50 rubles for the trip. Why did you ask? To buy gasoline. After all, you have to go somewhere. But people refused, they said it's very expensive, and they don't want to. We launched, literally once he went. And no one else came. Therefore, we canceled flights, because the driver has to be paid, and gasoline has to be bought, and you still have to go for gasoline. And people here are used to not paying for anything.

Former mayor of Teriberka: In 5 years there will be nothing here

Before leaving Teriberka, we go to visit Tatyana Nereiko, who led the village from 2003 to 2007. While serving as head, she launched a program to relocate residents from emergency homes. The plans of the village administration to build an asphalt road in Lodeynoye surprised her: “Why do we need a road in the village?! We need a normal road to Teriberka. And now we are ruining our cars for 40 kilometers.”

Nereiko is one of those who calls Teriberka "our land". And she doesn't like the fact that tourists come here. She does not agree with the organizers of the festival, who are talking about the development of Teriberka. “Why move people to develop it? I think that if Teriberka is developing, then in the direction of private business. It is in their own pockets, but definitely not for the benefit of the rural settlement, ”she says. When I ask Nereiko how she sees Teriberka in five years, she sighs: “Honestly, I don’t see her.”

Tatyana Nereiko, former head of Teriberka:

There is nowhere to work. And they are used to not working. Basically, these are people leading, say, an asocial lifestyle. Why do Murmansk people come here to work? Yes, because the locals work until the first salary or up to the first ruble. And then they go on a drinking binge, that's all. I myself manage something here - you can’t find a cleaning lady.

Even before the Leviathan, we had enough sailors who fished in the sea and brought in income. But "Leviathan", of course, gave a certain percentage of tourists.

Although this brought problems to the locals. First, the prices in the stores have gone up. And now we bring food from Murmansk, we buy for a week for 5-7 thousand, here these products would cost 10-12 thousand. I understand entrepreneurs, because there is a demand, but okay, we have a car, but what about a retired grandmother who lives alone?

Second, it's a dump. We historically have a landfill, and those who come here point to it and take pictures. But, my dears, because of you she has grown at times. Thirdly, garbage in the tundra. That year the tundra burned five times. We always came to collect cloudberries, and then we arrived - everything is black, scorched earth.

Around Teriberka

In March-April, beluga whales and killer whales approach Teriberka, chasing cod into the sea. Once we saw a blue whale here. Whales appear infrequently in the bay, but they can be seen in the open sea all spring.

The main attraction of Teriberka is the waterfall. Any local will point the way to it. The trail to the waterfall passes by the weather station, along the seashore, where at high tide the waves crash against the rocks. There is a large lake near the waterfall, in which green hills are reflected in calm weather.

Along the way you can meet stone pyramids. These are seids - the sacred stones of the Sami. It is unlikely that there are real ones on the way to the waterfall - most likely, tourists built them, collecting stones from the tundra. However, here you can also find seids on "stone legs" - one huge stone rests on two or three smaller stones. It is unlikely that a tourist is capable of such a thing.

And you can also just walk along the tundra from hill to hill, from lake to lake. The colors of the tundra are striking, as if someone had deliberately turned the brightness knob. On the seashore there is a clearing of snow-white dandelions, moss blooms on black stones, there is so much greenery around that the eyes rest. And there is such silence that sometimes you can not hear anything but the waves and the cry of seagulls. And in the hills, even the seagulls fall silent.

Prices in Teriberka

Photo: Natalya Vasilyeva In one of the shops in Lodeynoye

In the shop

• The cheapest vodka - 245 rubles
• Cabbage - 70 rubles
• Carrot - 85 rubles
• Beets - 65 rubles
• Small pizza in the bakery — 57 rubles
• Fresh white bread — 43 rubles

At the restaurant

• Ear - 500 rubles
• Venison stew — 600 rubles
• Sea scallop in cheese - 600 rubles
• Crab meat - 750 rubles
• Fried eggs - 150 rubles
• French fries - 150 rubles
• Tea in a teapot — 350 rubles
• Coffee - 150 rubles

Housing

• Double room in the hotel "Ter" in the old Teriberka - from 3000 rubles with breakfast
• Double room in a hotel near a fish factory - 2500 rubles with breakfast
• Double room in the Normann hotel in old Teriberka - 2300 rubles
• A place in a bungalow in the tourist complex "Teribersky Bereg" - 1800 rubles
• Hostel "Hold the Crab" in Lodeynoye - 1000 rubles
• Housing with locals - from 500 rubles

Services

• Boat trip with fishing for the whole day - from 3000 rubles per person, for 4 hours - 2500 rubles
• Ticket to the bath - 110 rubles

I think everyone has heard about this village? After the film Leviathan, crowds of tourists poured into Teriberka and local residents are no longer satisfied with the dominance of visitors. Teriberka is a godforsaken place on the Kola Peninsula, 130 km from Murmansk. The population of the village is about 900 people. Residents are fleeing from this place, but tourists are drawn to the contrary.
And it's a great place! You can’t even imagine how beautiful and atmospheric it is here. Old houses, incredible landscapes, broken boats, northern lights.
The hardest part is getting to it. It connects with civilization by a dirt road, which is difficult to pass in summer, and in winter it is constantly covered with snow.
I was very lucky with the weather. there had been no precipitation for several days, but even in such greenhouse conditions, I barely got out of Teriberka. Do you know what it's like to skid on ice on an uphill climb? :(
It won't be boring - sit back and watch.
And one more thing - I will ride a cuttlefish!!!

2. I'll start in the morning. In the hostel (!!!) Margarita cooked me potatoes with cod for breakfast. An unbelievably delicious dish. I don't know why she doesn't work as a cook, but it's incredible. Yes, I eat well!

3. In three words about the hostel. Everything is nautical.

4. The kitchen is right in the room. The hostel is super small - just one room and 4 beds. But everything is there and costs 500 rubles / night.

5. View of Murmansk.

6. Paid parking.

7. The hostel is located in a former hostel and the general atmosphere is quite ... mmm ... colorful)

8. Going out into the street, on the way to the parking lot, you walk along giant snowdrifts.

9. On the way to Teriberka, I had to fill a canister with 92-m gasoline for cuttlefish, fill a Pejon with diesel and myself with cookies.

10. The road to Teriberka begins with an asphalt surface. I drove up to 100 km / h, although later I regretted it - the road was covered with ice and it was very easy to fly away. As it turned out, he was playing with fire. After one turn, an SUV was parked and I had to urgently go around it and the car began to skid. It's good that there is a good driving experience and was able to straighten the car. It's gone.

11. The light is unrealistically beautiful. And yes, the tundra has begun.

12. In good weather, the road looks beautiful and you can drive easily, but it gets a little spoiled weather- that's it, it's impossible to get through. Cars get stuck right away, SUVs can go, but not always. Until the grader arrives, everyone is waiting. Recently, the technique has been better and clears the road more often, but earlier, buried in the snow, they waited for several days.
In general, it is recommended to go accompanied by a bus that goes to Teriberka in the evening and returns to Murmansk in the morning.

13. I was driving on March 8 and there were a lot of cars parked along the roads. Who didn’t do anything - someone fried barbecues, someone rode snowmobiles, someone went skiing.

14.

15. Many strange sticks along the route. Fence?

16. For kiters, Teriberka is considered a very cool spot and they ride here until May. They come from all over Russia.

17. I was really drawn to ride. But the trouble did not allow it over time, and the classes are not very humane.

18. Not a single complaint - drags, working lion cub!

19. Snow desert.

20. And here is Teriberka!
Moon during the day.

21. It's strange to see open water in those parts ... I'm already used to ice)

22. Looks intriguing. I went closer.

23. And here is the bus.

23. The feeling of unreality does not leave for a second.

24. Teriberka has everything! Wooden houses, old and new houses. Shop, school, hotel. There is even a kite school!

25. Scattered wooden boats. Is this normal at all?

27. I looked at the old Teriberka, I'm going to the new one.

28. The houses are beautiful, but it is probably impossible to live in them.

29. By the way, houses are for eviction, so do not be afraid of bad conditions. People are relocated either to newer 5-storey buildings, or to Kola.

30. They look creepy. But for photos it's perfect.

31. Try to find a car after a snowfall.

32. A lot of things (and people) are transported on sleds. They hook up to a snowmobile and ride between the old and new parts of the village.

33. Dog.

34. I really want to show more photos, but alas, they complain that there are too many (

35. Sasha.

36. And now the highlight of the program is cuttlefish! A device built on the basis of the IZH morocycle. You can ride on any snow. We loaded the boards and went to see the Barents Sea.

37. More buses. By the way, the school is plastered and looks much more decent than ordinary houses.
Galya, a former resident of the village, told how, while studying at school, she came for younger students, tied them to her with a rope and went to school in single file. The wind was very strong and the kids were blown away.

38. We roll to the coast of the Barents Sea.

39. Photographed the mountains.

40. Touched the water.

42. "Management is too difficult, I won't let you steer. Go take a picture," said Pavlik.

43. Pavlik - 14 year old guy, living alone in Teriberka. He gets his own food and knows how to repair cuttlefish.

44. This is how the boards were transported.

45. Beauty!

46. ​​We return back to Teriberka.

47. Pavlik showed his former room in an already settled house.

48. A sign at the entrance.

49. Photographed Pavlik.

50. I didn’t find men’s shoes (

52. Creepy enough.

53. The most buzz - in Teriberka, MegaFon has excellent 3G. I was able to chat on FaceTime, arranged an online broadcast. It's good when there is a lot of Internet and there is a connection.
MegaFon has the best coverage in the Murmansk region and I am glad that there is an opportunity to use modern features even in such remote places.

54. I had an idea - to stay, but the sky did not plan to show the northern lights and decided to go home so as not to waste time.
The road is hard and slippery. Very slippery! On the way uphill, the car skidded and had to go downhill to pick up speed and force the mountain.
In some places, the road began to sweep up and was guided by the posts along the road.
Pay attention to the snow handles - there is no precipitation, but the streams cover the road before our eyes.

55. I was afraid that it would snow harder - then I could stay in the car for a long time. But slowly and surely, he crawled towards the house. Part of the way was driving at a speed of 30-40 km/h. Slower - the wheels slip, faster - the car skids.
Teriberka is a wonderful place, you should definitely see it.

Expenses:
Store - 129 rubles.
Another store 135 p.
Refueling - 1511 rubles.
Breakfast - 200 rub.
Hostel - 500 rubles
Today - 2475 rubles.
Total - 19488 rubles.

Internet spent:
today - from tomorrow I will return the maintenance of statistics.
Total - 3.14 GB.

Steps:
today - 7764
total - 90625.

Mileage:
Today - 297 km, 5.4 consumption, 37 avg. speed.
Total - 3190 km, 4.6 consumption, 49 avg. speed.

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